Klipper, 4 point z-tilt before heightmap calibrate
Video showing z-tilt and heightmap calibrate behavior for my build, at both room temp and 60C…
Configured z-tilt to probe 4 points with relatively loose 0.4mm tolerance, one near each corner. Overall Height map variance seems to be better for it than if I try 3 point Z tilt near the pivot points. Each point is probed twice, measured values usually match exactly, or are within 0.01mm of each other. Observing BLTouch values being consistent whether plate is room temp or been heated to 60C for 5+ minutes.
My printer.cfg Z homes at 50mm/s. Am using springs and steel washers on top and below springs. Alu bed uses wheel adjust springs, only because that’s what was on hand. Otherwise 'd have ordered/used regular springs. I’m using Mike’s ( @probrwr ) carriage adapter models/stls with my BIQU H2 V2S Revo. Appreciate Mike sharing those!
Am new to klipper, sharing what I’m doing to hopefully help Mike and others. But would appreciate guidance on what/how to change and do better. Cheers!
Removed sheet metal back panel, was PITA when experimenting and making changes. Using removable panel instead, currently planning to use these clips unless someone suggests something else they’re very happy with…
Edit: Note the panel clips in github referenced above are for 1515 frame. Fortunately, the SnakeOilXY Dev recently shared a 2020 version via this SnakeOilXY Discord message.
2023-07-12: The 2020 model’s flexing arms are relatively short, causing overly stiff test print. So, have included modded version in my repo with gap edits and longer skinnier clip arms that flex more. My edits are not ideal, but they were fast to implement. The 2020 version I modified now has similar resistance/fit feel as the original 1515 model. Am printing PETG, with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32mm layer height, Cura5+.
Nope, unfortunately I didn’t make time to pester YouTubers that have influenced/entertained/edutained me for their signatures. I didn’t even make time to watch some of the chat sessions they had, hoping to view some online.
Was very happy just spending a bulk of the time meeting and chatting with people that stopped by the V1 Engineering booth.
OpenSauce was tons of fun, so much to see, lots of interesting exhibits, and exhibitors to meet and chat with. Intending to visit again next year, will fly though.
Created/shared small simple MGN12 linear rail stop block on Printables and GitHub to help hold up build plate when tinkering. Recommend PETG or something with similar flex.
Am frequently accessing controller/components under the build plate. Also, holding the plate up can help when showing off your build… Was using zip ties, but frustration drove me to create these blocks that can (loosely) live in the 2020 channel when not in use.
Took me far too long to model the PTFE guide in the background. Someone at OpenSauce.live taught me about the power of flexible materials. Planning to create a quick cone forming mold, and fill with silicone, or something else maybe? Cone shaped blob, e.g. with max rigidity near the connection.
Oh, I see what you mean. I’d either just find a convenient nearby location to cable-tie the cable to, add a mechanical ‘stake’ to cable tie it to (often in other designs you’ll see little protuberances on PCBs or parts for cable retention like that) or cable tie it to the bowden tube to provide some stability.
If you’re specifically looking to mechanically reinforce that joint, a short length of glue-filled heat shrink would do that nicely, as would likely just regular heat-shrink over the top, although with a lot more flex to it.
Assembly, mount guide for PTFE, CAN Wiring and BigTreeTech Smart Filament Sensor (BTT SFS v1.0)
Created compact tidy enclosable guide for PTFE, CAN Wiring and BTT SFS v1.0 sensor. BTT SFS can detect runout, jambs and flow issues. The PTFE Guide ideas breakout topic has design discussion details with various forum folks.
3mm ID X 4mm OD PTFE - Note large inside diameter, less filament friction, less PTFE drag, more flexible, but easier to kink. Could be an issue for brittle filaments, we’ll see…
Read instructions, including “VI. Wiring Method” which shows pinout for Voltage, Signal, Ground. Pay attention since board doesn’t have reverse voltage protection .
Question: Anyone know if removing filament should cause Klipper dashboard displayed value to transition from detected to empty? Am using BTT Smart Filament Sensor with Klipper, signal wired to Octopus v1.1, one of the endstop ports. Sensor tracks motion, isn’t just a switch. Posted same question to Klipper Forum too.
Answer:gabe.mi helped me understand that BTT Smart Filament Sensor only detects motion, so when the Extruder is not actively moving, the sensor doesn’t have enough information to infer whether filament was inserted/removed. A separate switch based sensor would be needed.
Sorry I’m late to reply, but I think your wrap with a flexible tape is a big improvement.
I usually work with connectors that have backshells or boots to manage wire egress from the connectors into the harness bundle.
If you hadn’t done that wrap, that spot where the wires emerge from the connector on the CAN board in the area you circled in blue would likely have been a failure point and sooner than you’d like.
The bummer is that for moving harnesses it seems that anywhere there is a tie wrap, harness split, or other pinch point that just becomes the next spot where wire fatigue happens.
Your bundle looks MUCH better after wrapping it, and that curved strain relief also looks like an improvement.
I’m curious if that CAN board connector has some kind of boot or other wire management feature that should be used with it. Do you know what connector is being used?
I would keep an eye on the bundle and see if there are any pinch or pivot points that either bend the same spot more than the rest of the bundle, or which bind for a part of the travel and tug on the gantry.
One thing I’ve done in the past that might help was a bit of a lemons to lemonade story. I ordered some 2mm ID 4mm OD PTFE tubing for a remote bowden extruder setup. I turns out that whatever the foreign supplier shipped was 2mm ID, 3mm OD, and NOT PTFE- it was super flexible. It was almost like aquarium tubing. Crappy and completely unusable for a remote bowden extruder setup. But it was perfect for a filament run from a spool holder to a direct drive extruder. That setup only has to pull filament through which is exactly what your printer is doing. I used that material on my TAZ for a while until I ditched the side mounted spool and went with an overhead spool. It was a noticeable improvement on the TAZ.
At the local makerspace, there were a couple of members with hybercube printers that used a long rubber band setup tied well above the printer to just slightly keep the top of the loop suspended. Not enough tension to tug on the gantry, but rather just enough to keep the loop from drooping and getting pinched or jammed in the gantry. I was never sure if I liked that setup.
Nice, am checking out Molex Backshells and Boots. For some reason, not stumbled onto backshells/boots for micro-fit 3.0mm pitch. However, am seeing backshells/boots for mini-fit 4.2mm and larger connectors. , no prob, am happy with the wrap for now… Good to know about backshells/boots, will use for future projects.
Using the wrap is just a temporary solution to buy time until if/when more compact carrier optimized for BIQU is available. Mike, Ryan and maybe others (?) seem to be tinkering with the Carrier…
Would be nice to see a carrier that aligns CAN wiring as close as possible to the PTFE so they can be strain relief together and curved ~90deg (similar to the PTFE guide at the back of my printer). One of my goals is to minimize lid height.
@azab2c How are you liking that filament sensor? I bought one to put on my V4 but haven’t gotten around to messing with it yet. Dealing with the firmware side still has me a bit intimated. I know you are running Klipper so that wont be the same as me running the V1 Marlin.
No opinion yet, configured sensor in Klipper ( [filament_motion_sensor …] ), but still haven’t gotten around to properly trying out beyond some basic tests. Will provide an update after getting some real usage.
20N 4.4lb Gas Struts still feel too powerful. Weaker 10N 2.2lb Gas Strut or Gas Damper would probably be better , McMaster Carr are $$$, am still figuring out place to buy… Regular gas struts only seem to be rated up to 50C, so may externally mount depending what high temp failure (?) looks like…
Lid height is 145mm, bit taller than I’d like. Back is open currently, am waiting 24hr+ to cure ~80% full strength before attaching struts, hinges, and eventually filter/fans. Will be using like this for a while, at least until if/when compact carrier and hot-end PTFE guide are available. Lid could do with handle/pull, I should’ve cut holes for handle before solvent welding.
with max rigidity near the connection.
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, no prob, am happy with the wrap for now… Good to know about backshells/boots, will use for future projects.
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