I think the fastest you can retract a hemera is 24mm/s, You might want to confirm that.
Skip this test, I don’t like it and 80% is not right. make sure your extrude steps are correct, the one that is 100mm marked on the raw filament, This wall thickness is not very valid to me.
Verify your max speed with the max speed slow test. I am maxed out at 55mm/s with a 0.5 nozzle so you should be somewhere around 70 I think. That test is very vaild.
try a scaled up version. 50x50 or one of the 100+ test shapes. Far more accurate. Like I said these tiny test parts are fast but can hide huge errors. 20mm cube can be 3% off before you would notice anything. Not true of a 100mm parts.
This part does not look good at all. That has huge acceleration issues and the walls look really bad.
I don’t have any cura settings to share but maybe you should post yours here so we can look for issues. I have a prusa slicer setting file but that is for a different nozzle so probably not very relevant.
Here is my current slicer profile for Cura. I have updated it to 24mm/s retraction and put it back to 100% flow. Let me know if this file works or if you need something else. I just used the export profile button in Cura so I assume that was the current way to do it.
Maybe it would be worth me trying Prusa Slicer so we can compare/relate settings easier.
His tests are great but you kinda have to go through them all once and circle back around and do most of them again. I suggest doing all these twice, and skipping the slicer flow rate one.
As for axis calibration, do this with real parts, large parts and you are really only testing diagonals, your XY&Z should be fine as there is really no way to be off unless your belt tension is super far out of spec.
Just for reference here is an even more in depth tuning guide with caveat it’s aimed at klipper but is not hard to use for marlin. Tuning | Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide
I will probably go back through the tuning tests at some point to see how I am doing with the 0.5 nozzle and everything. But right now I have a backlog of prints that I have been waiting to do so I should knock those out first.
Well, it looks good, there is some ringing. So accels are a bit off, maybe too fast. Hard to say. Mine are starting to show some ringing so I wonder if I have been creeping up the max speed. So when I get caught up with prints as well I will do some tuning see if we meet in the middle.
I did notice the ringing. That one I can live with for awhile until I get time to tune it. Overall, I am just happy to have clean parts while also reducing my print time compared to the 0.4 nozzle.
I don’t think I have ever showed my camera setup. Here is a camera arm I drew up to travel with the bed. Also has a light bar. Simple, gets the job done.
This assembly is reverse. The bed plate needs to be on the hard surface or the spring will flex as you add material. Spring goes on top.
Also it seems you are missing the slot in the bed support. Does your bed have much freedom of movement?
Oh interesting. I am not sure how I never noticed this before. I have never had issues with the bed movement/flexibility. It has plenty of movement per axis when keeping the other axes still. Seems fine. But I will switch it around and see if it gives it more movement.
I realized after I cut the plate that I did a hole instead of the slot, but I went with it anyway and it works perfectly fine. Realistically, the bed should never distort itself more than a few millimeters. When it rests on the bottom of the machine in the “off” position it should be pretty flat and then when you G34 it shouldn’t have much adjustment. So I have never come across a situation where the flexibility has hurt me.
No slots is fine, they are there for future non planer, if it happens. But the springs need to be on top for sure. Your print quality should go up a smidge, in the Z axis I would imagine…
I will switch the springs around the next chance I get. I am going to do an acceleration test before and after switching the springs positions. Wouldn’t you think the ringing affects would decrease? I would think the bed being less bouncy would help with that. When it makes a rapid movement/acceleration I am sure the bed rocks a bit on the springs.
I would be very happy to continue to improve the quality.
