LR3 to LR4 Upgrade! (Alabama, 2024)

Hello again everyone! After much anticipation, I am finally upgrading my Lowrider 3 to the new Lowrider 4. I only finished my LR3 a few months ago, and have used it extensively. I made a build log about it, seen here. I, like a lot of people here on the forums, was checking everyday to see when the LR4 would be released.

The size I am choosing for my LR4 is a cutting area of 2ft x 4ft, as that is a commonly available sheet good at hardware stores. At one point, my LR3 had nearly full sheeting cutting area, and I found I never actually used the full size, so a smaller build makes more sense for my work area and needs.

I began printing all of my parts on my Voron Trident, using Polymaker PLA Pro in Metallic Black and Metallic Blue, and Bambu Lab PLA black sparkle. One regret I have with my LR3 is that I printed all the parts with whatever filament I had on hand, and while it was still functional, I think a build looks much better with a nice color scheme.

I cut out the strut plates on my LR3 using the strut generator, which is super nice to have. I also made a few modifications by importing it into fusion 360 before milling.


I gave it a nice paintjob, and of course had to add a V1 sticker.

Assembly was fairly easy, and I think the most notable difference between building a LR3 vs. a LR4 is the attention to detail. No knocking the LR3, but with every step in building the LR4, there is a small little something that really shows everything was thought of; a place for the screwdriver to fit through to reach a bolt, cable management holes to route wiring, or a little cutout to make putting a part in easier.

Up to this point, I have gotten all of the hardware built, at least the best I can. I did make several (educated) guesses when building the table and placing the far y rail, and I am sure once the detailed instructions are released I will have to go back and make a few changes.

Currently, I am waiting on new leadscrews to show up to get the unit actually moving. During my wiring checks, I also added some neopixel leds to the underside of the gantry.


It gives a nice glow that bounces off the table and spills onto the worksurface.

Because I am using Klipper for my firmware, I plan on using a macro that will make the leds act as a progress bar to show how complete a job is. So as the job progresses, more and more leds will become lit up, which is another reason I placed the leds in a horizontal fashion.

Like my LR3, I plan to build an enclosure for my LR4, with the main goal being sound suppression. I have not seen too many other enclosed builds, so if anyone has any suggestions, comments, or pictures, I am always open to learn more.

I am sure more updates will follow, and for now I can’t wait to see everyone else post their builds!

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Wow, great looking build! Please do keep us updated!

This is a great idea! Build looks awesome!

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Your build looks great!

It’s good to see another LR4 running Klipper.
I’ll be watching for progress and updates on your setiup.

Well, time for another update! Took apart my previous enclosure that housed my LR3, and built a new one for the LR4. Definitely went for a much different design on this one.

The biggest thing I noticed on the previous enclosure in terms of noise isolation was that I did not do a very good job of sealing gaps/cracks, which is where most of the sound you could actually hear was coming out. Granted, I am just using construct grade lumber, so everything has a slight warp or twist to it. However, this time, I wanted even better sound isolation. I went with a 2x4 frame again, and used particle board for the main panels. On the inside, I stapled a harbor freight moving blanket, which is by no means the prettiest thing, but it helps hide all of the random board spacing. In terms of the actual sound deadening it provides, I have no idea, but being a soft surface I can only imagine it helps. I also used silicon caulking on all (yes all) of the gaps, cracks, or joints in hopes of fully sealing off the inside.


I will get some more pictures once I actually put the LR4 inside, but both the front and rear doors swing open, and gives me plenty of room to attach things for workholding and what not.

Next step is to add some lighting on the inside so I can actually see when the doors are shut. :rofl:

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“Where we are going we won’t need eyes to see.”

The first time I am not linking the picture or the gif to keep it family friendly. :joy:

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Very cool! Love the neopixel as progress indicator idea.

Looking forward to seeing how you handle dust collection.

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My current plan is to drill a large enough hole in the back left or right corner to feed my vacuum hose and power through. My biggest concern with that is sealing up the gap so more noise doesn’t come through, however. As always very open to suggestions with this.

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That’s awesome, I want to do an enclosure when I shrink my 4x8, I’ll take some of these tips when I do! I’m still so new I’m actively putting out fires on the cuts haha

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I use klipper with all my builds too. I bought a stack of neopoxels lights but you got them on before I did. I wasn’t sure how I was going to tie them into job indication. Thanks for describing your envisioned use case. How are you controlling the neopoxels? Pi direct or via a pico? I’ll be watching for your macro when you get it working.

Awesome! Glad to see another klipper user. I have the neopixels plugged into the “neopixel” port on my skr mini e3 v2, which is a GND, PA8, and 5+. I have seen several macros already made for the leds, and once I get them working I will be sure to share.

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Quick update for the day! Got lights wired up inside the enclosure. They are super brights and really make it easy to see inside. I also mounted the rails on some prefinished mdf panels to give a bit of extra height. Wired up everything, had to change some pin mappings and swap some cables around, but we have movement! Everything homes great, now just time for some cable management and buttoning things up before cutting.

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Another update. Im afraid I have caught the “new build bug” because I have been spending a lot of time trying to get my LR4 set up.

Did my first test cut into some rainbow poplar, which although is a hardwood, is actually pretty soft. I chose it because in my experience it holds dimension pretty well. I just did a simple 50mm cube, and as you can see it turned out darn near perfect. It is at least plenty fine for the work I plan on doing.

I think this speaks very highly of the design of the LR4. Considering I did no special tuning, no estep calibration, no router tramming, I am using a harbor frieght router (which probably doesn’t have the best runout), and I can get 99.7% accuracy in wood, seems good to me.

I also played around with my undermount neopixels, and was able to get the progress bar working well.


You can see it starts from the right, and as the job progresses, more lights will illuminate until the whole bar is complete. Need to figure out how to make it go the other way, as that would make more sense. Kind of gimmicky, but why not.

Also added a BigTreeTech 7in HDMI screen, which makes homing and zeroing procedures much easier. I plan on making some sort of magnetic mount for it, in a similar vein to the Fluid Dial Pendant a lot of folks use.

In terms of the enclosure, I think it does a pretty good job at keeping the sound in. Definitely not perfect, but better than before. The super high pitched “whining” sounds are more muted, which was the worst part. There is a pretty consistent drone still from the router, and I think that is coming from the top piece of mdf that the entire machine is mounted on. I may try and put a piece of rubber matting or rubber spacers in between the spoilboard and the top mdf piece to help mitigate that.

Next up is some spoilboard surfacing and then time to actually cut some real parts!

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Cool!

That accuracy is really neat! I also love the status bar. :slight_smile:

Regarding the sound, if you wanted to dampen it more: Some sounds are better diffused than filtered. Your walls are all pretty smooth still, so the different frequencies don‘t get scattered. Egg cartons or curtains that are not pulled out completely but still hang in folds can help immensely with that. I read up on that when we built our little studio for recording music some 20 years ago. :smiley:

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Since the noise is constant theoretically I don’t see why inverted wave active noice cancellation wouldn’t work, just like noise cancelling headphones but using a speaker.

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It could work if you theoretically only stood in one spot… and the router/spindle stayed in one spot… otherwise you have to constantly adjust the inverse signal with the position of the router and the receiver (person).

It’ll work even better if they are deaf in one ear. :slight_smile:

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I’m not sure it’d be that directional. You don’t have to stand in one spot to hear the music from a stereo speaker. If the dB of the speaker matches the router it should propogate just as much.

But you’re probably right, there’s a reason active noise cancellation systems for buildings are so astronomically expensive I guess.

It’s not about direction it’s about aligning (inverse) phases to create the nulls you seek. Throw two rocks in a pond. The waves only null where the inverse waves collide. The whole pond doesn’t go still.

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That’s a really cool idea!