Is this running Klipper, is that what is on the display? Or Marlin?
Yes. I am using a raspberry pi 4B to run Klipper, which is connected to my sir mini e3 v2 main board. The screen is running KlipperScreen, which is really nice. I believe there are ways you can customize klipperscreen to change the layout and what not, which I need to look into, considering it normally shows extruder and bed temperatures, which we donāt need here. It is great for macros, and doing simple move functions.
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I run klipper screen on my ender. I have another printer, my original Longer Lk4, I meant to put a screen on that, but for some reason, I cannot get it reliable. Is klipper working well 4 u on the cnc?
I know there are some macros needed for missing gcode.
So far I have gotten it to work well enough, however I would say I am quite familiar with klipper as a whole, and understood the limitations of it for CNC work going in, so my expectations werenāt too high.
I have downloaded these cfg files and put them on my LR4, and the āflatten areaā macro seems to work pretty well.
The biggest thing I want to figure out is how to use the touch plate for simple homing. I have it wired up, and klipper recognizes it as a probe, but I havenāt found how I can actually use it in a job to at least probe z, even more if I could hold it on the side of a piece and probe x and y as well.
If anyone else who have used Klipper for their MPCNC or lowrider would care to chime in, and tips would be greatly appreciated.
This is where Iām at using klipper on the mpcnc and LR4, but I donāt use any of those macros from that site. Just a zero macro for xy and one for z to square and set position home. The trick was getting estlcam set up for klipper. Iād also like to get the z probe working. It us wired up. the macro approach would likely be to probe z, not home z.
Iāve been eyeballing z zero it and it is fine for the foam work, but for inlays or hardwood, I would want it to be more precise.
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Seems like we are in the same boat. I could definitely set the probe as the z endstop, but I really like having the dual z endstops on both sides so it levels out the gantry. And yea, I also have been just eyeballing z zero, but the touch plate would be great. How do you like using estlcam with klipper? Is there a post processor or certain settings required? I have just been using fusion, but have always wanted to try estlcam.
I changed some settings and saved my own post processor for estlcam. Originally I tried to remap klipper gcode to accept marlin gcode from estlcam and that didnāt work very well.
On the mpcnc. You could use the endstop because it is unused. But on the lowrider the z endstops square the gantry and is at the max.
There is a spare endstop pin that can be used for input. Iāll try it tonight and see if I can get a macro to work.
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Was able to run some more tests, got out the surfacing bit to try it out on some Wenge, since it is especially hard. Also, surfaced some of my spoilboard that was higher from a previous attempt on the LR3. Definitely need to get dust collection figured out before I do the whole thing, it sure does make a mess.
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And it really stinks when machining it. 
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I havenāt messed with Wenge yet, but did get a few chunks in my trash can haul last time home. I really want to get enough to make a large cutting board from and inlay a Fleur de Lis of yellow heart in for a good friend of mine. But that of course is on the back burner like 1000 other plans LOL
@PKochZ71 your LR4 is looking awesome! I am sorry if you mentioned it somewhere else and I missed it, but what part of Alabama are you in?
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You keep good company 
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Well they live in Slidell, LA. So makes sense I guess LOL. Hopefully in a few more years they will be moving this direction. They are ready to get out but want to let their daughter finish high school first.
Friendly reminder to check wherever you screwed down your spoil board that the screws are in far enough when surfacing. I started to hear a loud noise during my surfacing job, and quickly looked over to see some sparks flying! Iām kind of impressed at how cleanly the surfacing bit handled it, although i would imagine it has a dull portion now :(.
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A good countersinking bit set to about half the thickness of your spoilboard has worked well for me. I got a good many surface cleanups on mine before I had to lower them some more, and now its time for a new board lol.
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Or a Forstner bit works well too
Drilled mine half thickness as well and buried them in thereā¦ If I ever hit those, something went really wrong
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Yea, I should have done something like that, however in my laziness I just screwed it on without pre drilling or anything.
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Well now you can just remove the screws and then countersink them, then reinstall. Not a big deal at all.
Harbor freight has some cheap countersink bits that work ok. Can sometimes be a pain to keep the flutes clean though.
You can get individual bits but these allow you to set the depth to make sure you dont go too far.
Ofcourse, if you want to be real fancy, I can confirm that this is the nicest countersinking bit I have ever used lolā¦
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I bought some elcheapo countersink bits, and they were just horrible. Hopefully those from HF are better than ones I bought, which I think were either from Amazon or Aliexpress.
Probably not 
but it was something I knew most of us could go out and get locally and easily. I know the Orange and Blue stores have them as well, but I donāt know how much better they are. I splurged and bought one of the amana ones I linked a few years ago and I will never turn back from that. That thing is amazing
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Finally getting some real milling done. Previously, I had a 1/8 2 flute upcut bit from SpeTool. It worked ok, and I particularly like it because it had 1in long flutes, which let me cut through 1in thick hardwoods, which is most of what I have. However, I was never really able to figure out good feeds and speeds with it, and the cutting would be okay, but it would either make a terrible noise, or lag behind and not cut well, even though it was sharp. So i purchased a 1/4in variant of it, and wow what a difference.
I would love to hear other peoples experiences with this, but mine has been very good so far. This bit feels(looks) so much sturdier, and it cuts through most of my hardwoods significantly better than the 1/8in, all while being quieter. I was using 3mm DOC, 15mm/s (35in/min), and my router set on speed 2.5, which i think is around 15000rpm, and it did great.
Also, designed up a quick mount for my 7in touchscreen, which you can see through the glass of the enclosure.
Still need to clean up some wiring, but I plan on doing that whenever I get my dust collection figured out so I can do a quick teardown and proper rebuild only once.
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