Not sure, but here’s a related issue, that if improved/solved might provide better performance bang for buck…
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So I think of it this way. The dimension of the bearings at the top of the core are the widest bearings. So I used those as a guideline. Some people put a ton of tension on them too much and you will feel it tighten and loosen as it rolls. I don’t think any wider is good, if you want to go narrower, I doubt there will be any benefit but I don’t think it will hurt anything either.
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I was told that all 5 will still only pull a small amount of current, I would think a slightly larger power supply would be better, but if only running at 12volts, you should be fine with a 4-5amp supply(60-72W) or more is ample.
I actually just did a test at 24v and all 5 steppers in motion pulled about 0.75A, or 18W. So even if we stepped up the current even higher and added a lot of accessories 2.5A, or 60W that ships is still pretty insanely over specced.
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My 2x2 build has only 140mm between braces. I no crap think I figured out how to make parametric designs happen so I just need to add the constraints to the other parts. This box has opened up a lot of new design skills. I imported the Jackpot board in and an STL of the brace so I could get all the holes lined up and make sure there was space. as soon as it gets worked out I will upload it.
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That is awesome, CAD is really fun for me, sounds like you are getting there as well.
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It can be a lot of fun when you understand it and can make things work like you need them to. On the other hand it can be extremely frustrating when you know what you want but have no idea how to get from A to B lol
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Same for me, do yourself a favor and stay away from surfaces and splines if you want to avoid a lot of frustrations.
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The T-Tracks showed up yesterday. Working on the table to take a short break from the control box. I will drill and recess the mounting holes for the spoil board. The working area is 24x24 and the tracks are 36 inches long so I should be able to clamp just about anything down
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Fun! Fun! I clipped one of the wire ties off a motor cable today and discovered that it had been installed so tight that it cut one wire in half. Totally covered under the zip tie and I would never have found it if I had not been looking to shorten that wire a little. Unfortunately, it is too short at that point on the wire. I really wish the bigger motors had detachable wires on the motors.
@vicious1 Any chance you can open up the belt paths in the Y blocks? I am pretty sure my printer is dialed in to a gnats ass and I can not get the belts through them. I am using an Amazon sourced belt so it may be thicker than yours. 10mm width and 1.55mm thick.
I haven’t really heard many issues with this. Can you slide some sandpaper through and fix it or is it harder than that?
I just checked mine here with the belts Ryan sent. They go through pretty easy, very slight resistance.
My calipers show 9.6-9.7mm width on the belt and 1.2-1.3mm thickness.
I have some of the thicker belt too, and.managed to fit it through, but the double layer for locking is troublesome. It really doesn’t want to cram the second layer in. That said, once you … convince it … it locks in solidly.
I used a hobby knife to remove about 6 teeth from the belt that I could afford to cut off after getting it through the XZ stub. That was enough to get a good grip on the end with pliers and pull it through. Then I used a locking piece with 5 teeth on it. It did not want to go back in. I ended up using the hobby knife to put a chamfer on the piece, which allowed me to pull it back.
The adjustable end on the low X side didn’t give me any trouble at all. 
I was about this close to remixing the stubs to have the same in and back lock as the end stop side though. My stub also wasn’t lining up with the Z drive for some reason, so I have been assuming it was the same issue with the belt tightness, but my calipers confirm the 1.55mm thickness, so maybe that isn’t it.
I only opened one of the STLs, but it shows 1.65mm at the skinniest part of the belt path in “Y Tension Block Rear”
When it prints things generally open about .2mm form an ID, OD go down about 0.2mm
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I have tried sandpaper, reprinting, flow rates, and even scaling larger on one axis to try to open it up… no joy.
I had the same issues with the belts on the MP3DP V4. I guess I can redraw it and open the path up if that is allowed.
Maybe try a new slicer. Just to see if that helps. Some people have printing issues, but not many on the LR3 parts. There are so many slicer settings that could be messing with it. Also simple things like a temperature tuning tower could help.
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I’d the same issue - I modified the blocks to be open at the top with an m3 nut and bolt to stop the open side splaying.
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I drew up new blocks with 2mm space through the first part and a 3mm lock section. The belts slide in nicely and lock solidly. Need to do the adjustable end now but I think I have them set to mount into the existing mounting blocks on the table.
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