LR3 - France - MKS TinyBee / FluidNC - Side-mounted Y belt

I wasn’t quite convinced by the 1.5kw until just a few days ago

So far, I’ve had pretty similar resuklts with the makita clone I previously had: no major improvement in cut speed or quality, the only real benefit was that the spindle is a lot quieter

Then I switched from my usual “1$ a piece” 1/16" bits to a “not so cheap” 20$ a piece 6mm roughing mill
With this bit, the spindle really started to shine, no bogging down even when removing a lot of material

I’m just starting pushing it right now, but 2mm DOC at 1500mm/min in hardwood (Oak) is fine
3mm DOC at 2000mm/min in hdf went perfectly well too

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That is the one I was looking at.

I started my build as a compact LR3. It looks like I increase dimensions and power at every step. :smile:

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That’s seems like a great deal but sadly, for the time being at least, it’s unavailable.

A quick tidy up tonight: I printed and installed Doug’s drag chain mount
Also mounted the PSU inside the struts

I still have a couple lose ends to finish but I’m pleased with the look of it…

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Doesn’t the chain hit the wall if you go too far to the back? I think it can be shortened by quite a bit. :slight_smile:

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It doesn’t hit but the rails tends to fall off the base
I guess shortening it can help :slight_smile:

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Fabian, what chain did you print? Is that the AR cable chain that Philipp posted in his build thread?
What size chain is that?

I have printed a few of those links a few days ago, but the clips don’t really stay on. I used 0.6mm nozzle so maybe that is what caused it.
Just trying to make sure before a start changing settings or the nozzle.

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That’s weird, I am sorry it’s not working for you. You can see it works really well for me in the video where I am changing routers.

I had seen that video and really liked how well that worked. I will have an other try with the 0.4mm nozzle. Maybe that does the trick.

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That’s the one
I printed with a .6 nozzle in pla, .25 layer height 95% flow

Maybe try a calibration cube to check if everything is ok first ?

@Fabien

With regard to the chain length, The way I determined my length was to move the X (Core) to the max then add links as needed to make the curve to the core. That lets you get to the far end without having the chain hang over the side.

Another technique is to move the X to home and then the curve should be a little beyond the mid-point of the gantry.

Mike

In the current state, and in order to avoid re-routing all cables, I think I’ll just pull the tail end of the chain until I’m satisfied with the curve at max X as you said, and then remove links as needed :slight_smile:

I may have to re-route a wire for the probe though :confused:

EDIT: actually, I don’t think I can remove any… This is X max

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FIFY :rofl:

Yeah I feel your pain the whole Christmas thing is really getting in my way too!! I spent all yesterday either working on house renovation designs for one of my kids or cuddling their kids!

The population of our house will vary between 2 and 14 for the next ten days or so, and when it’s down to 2 it’s mostly about getting ready for the next lot!

Just as well we love 'em! :rofl: :rofl:

Now back to the question in hand - OR you could just chase out the stone work to give clearance! :thinking:

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I just gave credit to my fellow forum users, and removed 6 links from the chain :stuck_out_tongue:

Also gave the control box a much needed and thorough clean…

While I was at it I tidied up the wiring both in control box, struts back, and table side…

I’m not completely happy with the drag chain I printed… it’s loosing its covers,doesn’t stay in place, and is not very smooth
I stumbled upon a drag chain I printed 2 years ago that is much smoother and a bit wider, I may design the missing end pieces and switch to this one at some point…

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wimp! :grin:

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Another much needed “upgrade” or “fix” should I say…

My X limit switch has a shorter arm than the ones sold by Ryan… just a tad… it barely misses the x tensionner adjustment screw by a hair… >_<

Quick 10 minutes design in F360, 5 minutes print… and voilà…

I’ve been using the LR3 without an X limit switch for 6 months straight, although it was just a matter of 15 minutes to fix >_<

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I have never actually homed Z anyway. It can’t be skewed, so why bother? Only for projects where I needed the absolute coordinates later and I only had two of those. :yum:

@Fabien , I think what may have been throwing some was these, but they do serve a purpose here, and while they could be described as optional, I think you’re good with them too.

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Salut Fabien. Maison en pierre et bois, Végétation bien verte. Ciel gris. Je pense que l’on est voisin !! :joy:

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