LowRider 3 CNC - control box case for BTT SKR Pro 1.2 board and a BTT TFT35 E3 touchscreen (v1.3.4) SHORTER VERSION (180mm) FOR SHORTER PRINTERS

Download files from Printables here.

LowRider 3 CNC - control box case for BTT SKR Pro 1.2 board and a BTT TFT35 E3 touchscreen (v1.3.4) SHORTER VERSION (180mm) FOR SHORTER PRINTERS

This version (a remix of v1.2) was commissioned by Mike K @ mikekellyio of the V1 Engineering user forum. His 3D printer is a Prusa Mini, with a max print height of 180 mm. So, this version’s base & lid are shorter by 17.5mm, for a total length of 180mm, for printers with a shorter max height.

All other components except the base and lid, and all other details for assembly, screws, etc, should be the same as v1.2, so please download the other parts and access the description info there: https://www.printables.com/model/229885-lowrider-3-cnc-control-box-case-for-btt-skr-pro-12

Otherwise, since all else is the same, below is a copy and paste from before, with minor tweaks:

Gorgeous printable case for your LowRider v3 CNC , if you’re using an SKR Pro 1.2 board and a BTT TFT35 E3 touchscreen. Offers some new features (see below).

Many thanks to Ryan at V1 Engineering for his design genius and gracious generosity in sharing his work with us all. For those whose LowRider v3 MPCNC has or will have a BTT SKR Pro 1.2 main board and a BTT TFT35-E3 v3 touchscreen, I offer my remix of Ryan’s blank control box case CAD file. This case may fit other SKR boards, depending on dimensions. Check before printing. It may also be remixed to suit other SKR boards.

  • NEW (as of September 2, 2022) shorter base and lid (180mm) for shorter printers. See above.
  • NEW (as of August 15, 2022) USB port opening. See above.
  • NEW (as of July 7, 2022) “Low Fat” Base option. See above.
  • NEW (as of June 21, 2022) support facing the TFT toward X axis or Y axis without having to reprint any additional parts. Under the previous revision, you could choose to print either the “A” or “B” sets of the lid and TFT holder, with “A” facing the TFT toward the X, or “B” facing it towards the “Y.” In this one, you can print once and know that it can go either way.
  • Support for either 1/8" thick struts or ¼" thick struts. The original base has a “mounting” rail on the back that is sized for struts cut from 1/8" thick hardboard. What about those who cut their struts from ¼" plywood or ¼" hardboard? There is now an alternate base for that too.
  • Support for cooling fans — designed for two 40x40x10 fans. I use these quiet fans from Noctua: NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)
  • Snap in place feature — this remix keeps the original screw hole from Ryan’s design, which allows the lid to be fastened in place on the base, but my design also includes a new snap in place feature. I love it, and have not bothered with a screw.
  • Access ports — for the SKR’s USB ports and mini-SD card slot, and for the TFT touchscreen’s SD card slot.
  • DC power connector port — the base has an internal “sled” to hold the female power connector, and one of the printable parts is a little bar to screw in and clamp the connector in place. My LowRider kit from V1 Engineering came with one of the connectors. If you need more, these are available on Amazon.
  • Ample room for wiring and power connections — with options for running wires in from below the board or above it. I recommend below, as it minimizes chances of something getting tugged loose while sliding the lid in or out. See video (above). Note: this version has less “ample” room than before, so take that with a grain of salt.

Details of my upgrade of a LowRider v2 to v3 are available here on the V1 forum.

Print and Assembly:
  • Print the parts as oriented. No supports needed, assuming your printer is capable of a decent amount of bridging.
  • Use four (4) M3 x 8mm screws to mount the TFT to the TFT holder.
  • Use four (4) M3 x 8mm screws to mount the TFT holder to the lid.
  • Use two (2) M3 x 8mm screws to attach the clamp that holds the DC connector in place.
  • Use eight (8) M3 screws of an appropriate length to attach your two cooling fans.

Change log:

  • See Features (above) for other changes on various dates.
  • June 24, 2022, 7:00 am (EST): updated both the lid and the TFT holder files to get closer to perfection on fitment and accommodation of the TFT, fitment and function of the reset button, and positioning and function of the SD card slot.
  • July 7, 2022, 9:25 pm (EST): add “low fat” versions of the base for both 1/8" thick struts and 1/4" thick struts. The low fat versions save 33% of the plastic and shave 25% off the printing time.

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/dougjoseph

View all my LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

*Product links are Amazon affiliate links.

Do you connect your Noctua fans to fan ports on the skr pro 1.2 or direct to power supply?

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I hook mine to 12v ports on the SKR and it powers them just fine. I’m running a 24v power supply and the board brings it down to 12v so no extra converter needed


If memory serves I connected straight to power!

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