LowRider 3 — Aza's IDEX upgrade (2 Routers!)

Put the vac on the one that will make the biggest mess. That is a cool challenge though, split the hose and only use the one that moves, some sort of servo gate or something. Or it always closes when they park so a manual bump switch.

But yes, get it working first.

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Cut the screw hole into a slot bend the top just a tiny bit so it can not vibrate loose. Kinda like the Y axis quick release.

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I’d probably just do a quick release of the X belt motor. Replace the M5 screws with pins, and add a clamp, or use a spring washer and clevis pins. When you want to remove the second core, you pop the clamp, and move the X motor all the way to a parked position. Then you don’t have to unplug the second X motor, so no wiring issues, and no possibility of plugging in the motor backwards, no need for a belt tension clamp, because the motor pulley and idlers are still on the belt, and a quick re-connect.

Bonus points if you have a homing switch at X_max and can then just home the second X motor.

Speaking of pins… Use some 8mm smooth rod to replace the 2 1.5" 5/16"/M8 bolts that hold the bearings on the top of the core, and drill clevis pin holes in it. THen removal of the bearings becomes a snap, no tools required. Pop the clevis pins and the bearings slide right off, then the core can easily be removed. For bonus points, add a pocket to store the skate bearings while the core is off.

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Cheers for all the suggestions, making a note for future improvements after getting end-to-end functionality working.

For today, am trying out just making a hole in the Strut to shove excess belt through…

Will use X Belt Holder as is. Might chamfer belt holder, and/or make a clip to ensure Core doesn’t catch on the Belt holder as the Core moves to X min.

Edit: Dan’s clevis pin idea is neat, will order some to try out, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=m8+clevis+pin&crid=2CBVPV6A7SNM9&sprefix=m8+clevis%2Caps%2C219&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_9

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Somehow, I like the idea of using a LowRider v3 core as a paper weight or some such. Perhaps intriguing. :rofl:

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Assembly > Core > Kobalt Router Semi-clear Vac Hose mount

Hoping to increase light on stock/bit by modifying Printables > V1E > Kobalt Router LR3 Mount.
Printing mix of transparent and Kobalt blue PLA… Swapping filament after printing bottom 3mm.

  • Am using Cura’s “Z Offset Setting” Marketplace plugin to help configure the filament color swap. See Chep’s YT video for details.

Blocked bottom…
image

Clear bottom…
image

Learnings

  • Problem: Z Homing may collide with partially printed base parts… fix: Configure initial Z homing to use an extreme XY corner. Rely on subsequent Z-Tilt to true level up the print bed.
  • Remember to disable skirt/brim for upper slices.

Will edit this post and share files when done. Need to see how well the Clear SunLu PLA and SliceWorx Royal Blue PLA bond…

Edit: For this situation, looks like change filament at layer height would be more straightforward than using the z-offset plugin.

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There’s also the old trick of starting a single print job in one color filament, then pausing the job at a certain height, changing the filament, and continuing the print. There’s a plugin for Cura I think that allows setting which layer to insert a pause at.

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So the sliceworx royal blue is the good match?
I just ordered some sliceworx yesterday, but royal blue wasn’t my guess for the Kobalt.

Yeah, I wasn’t sure either and emailed the owner to confirm before I bought 2 rolls.
I haven’t tried color matching other filaments to the Kobalt Router, so, there could be better matches out there? Personally, I like SliceWorx’s filament so far, color’s close enough for me, and seems to extrude ok. Normally I get Overture/Hatchbox PLA/PETG, would’ve got theirs if found better match.

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All the slic3r variants have color change baked in.

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Silly me not thinking to write a communication. Based on the colors displayed my monitor (I know the failure there), it looked like the Royal Blue was a dead ringer for the dark blue on the box.

The shayshay Blue looked closer to the router, and the light blue on the box, so that was my dice roll.
Sounds like I have a Royal Blue order in my future, and a new roll on the way for prototyping. :blush:

Edit add: I wanted to see how close the Ocean Cyan was anyway, so that’s why I chose sliceworx for my dice roll.

Snippets from email exchange with SliceWorx founder :

"The Royal Blue PLA matches the Kobalt range of products from Lowe’s in the US

Also here are the other matches of all the colors:

Robitobi Green - Ryobi

Ocean Cyan - Makita

Rocket Red- Milwaukee
"

Hope that helps, cheers!

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Pause and filament unload at layer height, and adding a M600 Macro to my Klipper config?

That sounds easier than the 12am manual model slicing and positioning I did :man_facepalming:

Is this the way?

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The vac hose i have it hanging from the roof with a simple aluminum door hanger rail : simple, easy and CHEAP. You could also make 2 boom arms

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That sounds about right.

Assembly > Core > Kobalt Router Semi-clear Vac Hose mount

Shared .STL file, and video showing how to Print partly clear Vac Mount…

Parts:

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Love it! I need to do this.

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So, any updates?

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:slightly_frowning_face: no updates, but hoping to get back to this soon…

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That is insane!