Long:
Enabling gcode to control power to each Router individually would be nice. @srcnet shared link to Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield, looks neat, I hadn’t looked at before. Dug around the forum and found several folks seem to like and recommend this solution for easy and relatively safely controlling power to Mains powered devices. Dug around for product info:
Dimensions 170.0mm x 95.0mm x 35.0mm / 6.7" x 3.7" x 1.4"
Until now, have been turning Router on and off manually, guessing most people do, it’s easy. Originally had lofty goals of adding a relay, and PID speed control. But as usual, got distracted and ended up prioritizing other stuff… Despite this track record, instead of doing the quick safe option mentioned above, am going to try a 4-channel 5V triggered 30A rated Relay Module hooked up to my Octopus’s Fan ports. 4-channels instead of just 2, because might end-up achieving lofty goals of hooking up Vac, cooling, lights, lasers, etc… Have to make an enclosure at this point, so may as well include space for futures.
Was considering SSR, but they seem too reliable and pricey for things that needs relatively infrequent on/off switching?
Looks like I need to get off my butt and finish enabling Marlin on Jackpot. Once the 2209 serial multiplexing is sorted, it’s all solved and IDEX will work, guaranteed.
Err, am I the last person to realize the LR3 Core can be mounted and unmounted without having to remove XZ plate from Gantry’s end brace? Can just add/remove two of the top bearings.
@jamiek and/or any other LR3 IDEX builders out there, curious if you have any related models/ideas I can use to help with wiring/vac mounting and splitting? Have been digging thru Jamie’s IDEX build.
There was a recent topic with an impressive mother of all drag chains that encapsulated a Vac hose and wiring for Y axis. Impressive work. For now, am going for just enough effort to function.
You and me both. Am still figuring out if/how to allow quick’sh release via belt holder / stub / X drive mod(s). E.g. Mod X drive to have channel cutout for belt to slip on/off. Then make a removable belt clamping clip that cinches/tensions belt close to right XZ plate. Still thinking/experimenting…
I’m wondering if it’s possible to get an over-centre lever in the space available… The clip below isn’t applicable, but it might just inspire a different thought. I’ll have a bit of a sketch and a think (in that order!)
Put the vac on the one that will make the biggest mess. That is a cool challenge though, split the hose and only use the one that moves, some sort of servo gate or something. Or it always closes when they park so a manual bump switch.
I’d probably just do a quick release of the X belt motor. Replace the M5 screws with pins, and add a clamp, or use a spring washer and clevis pins. When you want to remove the second core, you pop the clamp, and move the X motor all the way to a parked position. Then you don’t have to unplug the second X motor, so no wiring issues, and no possibility of plugging in the motor backwards, no need for a belt tension clamp, because the motor pulley and idlers are still on the belt, and a quick re-connect.
Bonus points if you have a homing switch at X_max and can then just home the second X motor.
Speaking of pins… Use some 8mm smooth rod to replace the 2 1.5" 5/16"/M8 bolts that hold the bearings on the top of the core, and drill clevis pin holes in it. THen removal of the bearings becomes a snap, no tools required. Pop the clevis pins and the bearings slide right off, then the core can easily be removed. For bonus points, add a pocket to store the skate bearings while the core is off.
Cheers for all the suggestions, making a note for future improvements after getting end-to-end functionality working.
For today, am trying out just making a hole in the Strut to shove excess belt through…
Will use X Belt Holder as is. Might chamfer belt holder, and/or make a clip to ensure Core doesn’t catch on the Belt holder as the Core moves to X min.
