Hmm… how are you going to tension your X-axis belt?
I think, I have to print the two plates for the x axis. I have no other idea for the x axis belt tensioner.
Your double x-mounts looks great to combine the double x-axis.
My x-axis belt tensioner is easily to see in the 3rd picture I posted yesterday.
I think, I will mirror the tensioner, to use a pulley/idler without tooth.
Why, you have the metal plate on the double-X-Plate?
Extra rigidity for my X-axis belt.
Tom, you have the Endstop mount for the X-axis as stl?
Endstops for x,y, and z are missing in my acutal build. Hope this weekend i will move first time.
I have uploaded the file to the Lowrider folder I have been sharing. I am not sure how useful it will be for you. I designed it to be used with the standard reprap switch (same as the ones on my Ender 3)…
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Just want say Tom, your build, videos and images inspired me to build mine.
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Several on this forum have inspired me. This is what is great about this community.
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Thank you very much. i remixed it to use with the “makerbot” endstops, you have in your first post as Z-limit switch.
The first steps of the nema23 lowrider coming sooooon 
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This thread has been amazing to read through. I’m have a question on motion control hardware… do you think the External stepper motor driver adapters you linked to will work on any control board? For example the SKR pro 1.2 board sold in/with the kit? I already have experience with marlin and would prefer to stick with that firmware structure. If I could use marlin, and the adapters to couple with digital drivers to NEMA 23, I think this would be my ideal set up. I have some concerns on the output signal strength to the stepper drivers. Thanks for any direction.
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This works with any board that takes the polulo style drivers, including the SKR Pro.
I would say though that NEMA23 motors are not required for the most part, as some very high powered NEMA17 motors are available, and are as much as the printed parts and the 1" steel rails can take without breaking. It will be way easier to get support on the forums to troubleshoot the build, and cost less money. It won’t even cost much more if it doesn’t work for you that way, and the NEMA23 upgrade is what it needs.
any update on your build?
It has been a real work horse and a lot of fun. I haven’t done a lot with it in the last two months because it is too hot in my shop. Arizona can be a little tough in the Summer. I did just mill a pair of LR3 YZ plates on it. I am building a 24" x 18" LR3 for smaller projects. I think Ryan made a big improvement on the usability over the LR2.
Maybe I spend more time in my shop soon. I just got a quote for a mini split system to cool my shop.
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Those nema 23 models says 3.5 volts is that the voltage drop. I see you r using 40v. You having any problems. Mine loose there holding torque. Mine are 269 oz. After I jog about 10 mm they back off a little. While it was engaged I could move the x axis. I got another stepper and driver coming. I have the driver’s are set for full holding.
I am also using the 269 steppers. I am controlling them with Bart Dring’s 6-pack controller running FluidNC (GRBL 1.1 variant). Except during the extreme heat of Arizona’s Summers, it has worked well for me. I plan to add a mini split to my shop this Spring.
Don’t know your skills level so do not feel offensed.
Are you sure not to confuse with the current (3.5Amp)?
These drivers are made for an intensity between 18V and 48V.
Theorical 269 oz is a nice torque, but you could not get that in your setup.
The setting of the current to be supplied to the stepper motors is set with the switches. You must make a correct balance between the torque and the heat that this will generate on your motors so as not to deform the motor supports (PLA?).
More current means more heating.
What value did you set these current swiches to ?
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Yes, I installed mini split last year best money ever spent. Works down to 16 degrees, but at the level it defrosts a lot.
I would get one pretty quick, because they are going to double in price.