Kobalt router

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

It’s not a lot of steps. I think it took me maybe 30-45 min or so. I can do it tomorrow.

I think I spent more time adjusting the teeth and making the tool than anything else.

If I get all the way through it and don’t make any stupid mistakes like leaving sketches completely uneditable, I’ll put the whole the whole Fusion file up.

@vicious1

f you are just using a circle that is offset by 1.5mm and only tangent at one point, I think I can handle that is you do not want to do it. What is the biggest thickness of the spacer?

So, taking your original Makita design, I opened the hole up to to 68mm, but did it offset 1.5mm so it didn’t alter the thickness of the back side of the ring.

The Cam Ring on the inside had 0.1mm of clearance, and the sketch looks like this:

So the center of that circle was offset 0.5mm back(1.0mm from the original center), and then I just remove part of the back where the plastic was going to be thin.

That’s all the easy part. The trickier part was setting up the notches on top and the front notch that aligned with the longer top notch that gave you the original alignment of the router with 0 adjustment.

One thing that certainly could have been better on mine with the Makita, was that since I didn’t have the original CAD, I couldn’t easily adjust to hose attachment, so I didn’t bother with it.

If you are going to make an official one, you’ll probably need to handle that better.

Another I did on mine was open up that back wiring notch a little wider. I was having trouble having mine get pinched, so I needed a little more clearance back there.

If you want to take a crack at it feel free. Just let me know if you have any issues or want some more information. I can still get to some of the sketches, a few of them are just not editable anymore.

[Peacester (Andrew)]

Man I really need to get more into CAD. I know sketchup really well, just have never spend the time to learn F360 or FreeCAD

[Tokoloshe (Philipp)]

Nice, rule number 4 in the new giveaway gives me the opportunity to not participate twice.

[bitingmidge (Peter H)]

@Peacester

If you can get your hands on one (the Kobalt I mean) I think Amazon sells converters

It’s a nice thought, but it would only be to be one of the “cool kids” - the Makita is perfect for all I need, and I already own it.

A Kobalt would end up costing at least twice what the Makita did by the time freight and power adapter were added, and it would always be a compromise.

That doesn’t mean I can’t be a little excited for all of you, although I’ve heard that deWalt routers have plummeted in value on Craigs List lately - you might pick up a bargain there, and blue paint is cheap!!

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

I gave it a quick shot if someone wants to test it. @Peacester

Kobalt Cam Adjustable Mount

[niget2002 (David Walling)]

That’s a really cool story.

But part of me feels like you may have left some NIL money on the table

[Peacester (Andrew)]

@Michael_Melancon

if someone wants to test it

Huzaa, I’ll get the PLA version printing right away.

Edit: PLA is started! It has about a Hour and a Half to print! I’ll come back with photos when I can! Welp the CAM ring lost bed adhesion and failed. The mount side turned out as expected all holes line up and everything. Re-printing the CAM now, this time with fresh glue put down.

As for the PETG if anyone knows why the sides on a hollow calibration cube would be a different thickness than the front and back would help speed up that process, assuming it’s a retraction/priming issue just not sure what to change to fix it. The the sides vs front/back are .1mm off (probably not insanely important, but never had that issue before)

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@azab2c

LR3 Kobalt Vac Top, needs extra LED hole. Has 1 hole, but Router has 2 LEDs.

That second hole would mess with airflow, heat, I think way more than the first one. So if you do open it up make sure not to use a funnel like I did with the first. I also did try a hole but it is too far away and still casts a shadow right at the bit. So I just skipped it, the funnel one lets light through that still lights up the bit.

Is the step file on the printable page, if not I can put it there.

The reusable zip ties I have are freaking huuuuge. There might be enough room? I can double-check, there isn’t much load so thin walls would be fine.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@Peacester

if anyone knows why the sides on a hollow calibration cube would be a different thickness than the front and back would

Scale it up larger would be my first guess. Tiny cubes only give very rough gross calibrations.

[azab2c]

Thanks for the design insight and considerations. Can see .3mf but not .step

https://www.printables.com/model/628738-kobalt-router-lr3-mount/files

[Peacester (Andrew)]

@vicious1

Tiny cubes only give very rough gross calibrations

Its just weird to me its only with PETG. I’m giving it one more try before scaling, this time I changed a couple of retraction settings I don’t normally mess with and lowered the part cooling fan. It has been consistently 0.1mm difference between X and Y walls across all hollow cube prints.

[DougJoseph (Doug Joseph (design8studio))]

@DougJoseph

Not only does the Kobalt unit come out of the box with two collet sets to support both 1/8" and 1/4" bits, but it conforms to the standardized approach, so you can also buy affordable 15-piece sets like this one I bought on Amazon (just for use with my Kobalt on my LowRider v3):

15pcs ER11 Spring Collet Set for CNC

And now I can buy and use affordable bits in a whole range of diameters.

In addition to what I mentioned above, consider also this helpful video for how to insert, and remove, collets from a collet nut:

INSERT AND REMOVE OF COLLET AND COLLET NUT

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@Peacester

I’m giving it one more try before scaling, this time I changed a couple of retraction settings I don’t normally mess with and lowered the part cooling fan. It has been consistently 0.1mm difference between X and Y walls across all hollow cube prints.

Scaling to twice the size should only add a few minutes print time.

A tiny cube with that small of an error, my first guesses could be cooling imbalance or a crooked nozzle. If you scale up see if the error scales up or not.

[pony1023 (Steve)]

I like the tip, although I’m thinking a smooth rod of Aluminum or Acrylic might be better esthetics wise. Maybe might even put a handle on it like a screwdriver.

Hmm, going to have to do some measuring. 3D print might even work, but metal or clear and shiny will look… well at least different.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@azab2c

Can see .3mf but not .step

I added the step

[Peacester (Andrew)]

PLA Version is done. Came out good. The squeeze gap is 2mm bigger than @vicious1 Im assuming this is within tolerance as adding tape would likely add a similar gap

@vicious1

crooked nozzle

I just tore apart the hot end due to a failed print

Took it apart again reassembled with much more attention to detail and replaced the nozzle for good measure. Wife has a appointment I got to drive her too, I’ll scale and retry again when I get back.

I was so determined it was the filament… experience can kill you, I’ve taken the hot end apart a lot before. Usually with more caution than I did this time

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

@Peacester

The squeeze gap is 2mm bigger than @vicious1

Is that his Kobalt or Makita mount. This mount was based on his Makita mount. I don’t believe I changed that gap, but let me know if you have any issues

[Peacester (Andrew)]

@Michael_Melancon

Is that his Kobalt or Makita mount. This mount was based on his Makita mount. I don’t believe I changed that gap, but let me know if you have any issues

It’s his kobalt. Both were printed with same settings and printer. Ambient temp may have been slightly different but that’s it. It did come out a bit different (fit and finish wasn’t as clean) I’m wondering if I accidentally changed something or just a random issue that they occasionally have, I’ll re try it for good measure

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@Peacester

accidentally changed something

Probably just tolerance stack up. As long as the lock nut engages, it is fine.

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

@Peacester

It’s his kobalt. Both were printed with same settings and printer.

I just meant I wasn’t sure if he modeled them the same, but the model I have up there should be a lot tighter than that