I always seem to be printing parts for printer upgrades here lately LOL. Right now I am printing a floor for a tote so I can set Filamentalist spool holders on them and keep them above the descant lol.
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Two grandkids are making plans for different Flexis as I type this; will delay my other print activities a bit- and will mean at least 3 printers running one for each kid and one for the big kid.
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Thatâs whatâs great about having multiple printers! And always worth putting stuff off for the kids to have some kind of interest!
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My son bought a flexible octopus when he was on a trip without adult supervision. $20 for the silly thing. I found the design on the web and itâs $3. Not even $1 worth of material.
I guess I need to print one to show him that I really can print all the things he sees at the monthly craft fair we go to.
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Print it all!
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Just a little update here. I have it all back together and have done a few prints with it. Its been working a TON better than it ever did before! It still has its mishaps though. Hoping to get more time to tune that out soon. I have a 5 color print I really want to do on it, hoping for tomorrow if I can find time. I have to cut the rod and put 2 more Filamentalist together before I can do that. Also I found a print to install the tool head sensor between the extruder and hot end for the tool head I have on that printer. Hoping I can get that installed tomorrow as well. With that and the new version of Happy Hare, it will automatically set all the parameters for the tool head and supposed to make it a ton more reliable. Time will tell lol.
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Do you manages to get the information where to Plug the 2 toolhead Sensors?
I build the ercf with 8 spools and according do the docu im kinda using every Port on the btt mmb for the pre Gate Sensors and Just habe the 2 reserved Ports free.
Can i use them for the toolhead Sensors?
I plugged mine in the X and Y Endstop pins on my toolhead board. But you have to be running sensorless for that.
I decided to go with the TradRack. Super easy build and i self sourced all of it. Have enough ball bearings to build 48 moreâŚ
Questions about Happy Hare. I know it supports the TradRack with no mods but i am confuswd about the sensor âbelow the Extruderâ. Does it HAVE to have that? I can put a sensor on top of my H2VS but not between the Revo nozzle and the gears.
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No it doesnât HAVE to have it. but you wont be able to use the auto tool head calculation functions or whatever they call them. Its been a while since I have messed with it. I never was able to get the ERCF to a reliable state and just have not had the time to mess with it in several months. I sure hope you have better luck with the tradrack! But I will say Happy Hare is great! And in the initial setup you just chose TradRack instead of ERCF and its supposed to set everything for you.
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I just ordered the chameleon - version mk4 (on sale for just over $100). It should be here Thursday I believe. 4 color capable. supposed to be uber simple. Klipper integration. Iâll document the experience and add the upgrades in another thread for the collective knowledge. After seeing how fast you can build an LR4, if the ERCF took you this long+, I donât think I have the bandwidth for that.
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I have a lot more experience with V1 machines than I do the ERCF. That was my first time ever printing ABS, and I ended up printing the entire thing 3 separate times. I had it working âokishâ but you had to be constantly babysitting it. And it just became too much. I stopped even looking at it when the LR4 beta started, and now I really donât have time to fool with it lol.
I do watch the armor turtle developments but not super close. His idea of getting rid of the servo has me the most interested. The servo on the ERCF was some of my biggest headache.
did you have any issues with the filament going into the extruder gear? My H2V2s is very hard to get a filament to start feeding and I think it will jam this chameleon. It may be the final straw that forces me to finally put on that new high flow lite version Iâve had on the shelf and have been been side-eyeing for a few months⌠didnât want to end a good thing with the printer working ok for as long as it has.
H2 V2S Lite sucks at this tooâŚ
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so I guess Iâll be forced to get an orbiter3? JJ, what extruder are you using?
Does anyone know how to cheat code the H2 line extruder threadup? â sorry. Iâll start my own thread.
The printer I had it on runs an orbiter V2 on it and not really any problems getting it to feed in as long as the ERCF could get it there reliably. I had more issue with it not pulling the filament all the way back and then trying to cut it which would just put a huge kink in the filament, then it would try to move to the next color but it couldnât since the other was still there, and it would just attempt to load that since it was there. It just didnât happen consistently and I never could understand what was stopping it.
I do think If I lived somewhere with no humidity issues, and could run the standard buffer instead of the spool holder rewinder things that I would have had a lot less issue. But that is just not possible for me
Completely agree with this! The orbiter V3 is nice and all, but I much prefer my 2 printers with V2âs and Rapido hot ends over the hot end on the V3.
Seems the two extra ball bearing filament sensors in the stealthburner add a fair amount of filament friction. Is that normal enough and doesnât mess anything up?
I think itâs been said these are kind of optional these days, but I do miss the auto-extruding like I get when inserting filament into my Prusa.
I figured put the other day that if i told the h2 to extrude right as I put the filament in it went in without a hitch.
To be fair, I have a revo version, but I have had all of the h2âs so far on different machines.
Funny thing: I told it to extrude right last night and it fed no problem. Probably the first time.
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I tell mine- especially the older ones like the taz- to extrude right every time. They donât always listen, but an operator has to tryâŚ
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