That’s just messed up you would say that LOL
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“Crack the core” sounds like a Sci-Fi movie title! 
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Help me know exactly what I’m supposed to be noticing. I may be tired, but I’m missing it.
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I feel your pain. Welcome to my world of millimetre adjustments.
I presume you want to keep that bolt that clashes with the beam!! I think the simplest and nicest way will be to remove the strut, and mill out a little clearance slot, just deep enough to hold the nut captive. You might have to take it all the way to the cutout, but I’m pretty sure that you won’t notice that.
Actually I’m pretty sure that you will and it will haunt you all the days of your life. Cut the screw so you don’t have any excess on the nut and keep the slot as short as you can.
Sorry.
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The screw coming in from the side that catches the X belt tensioner is dead tight up against the strut. I’m also noticing a few spots where the idler pulleys on the X motor rub too. I’m afraid its all going to have to come back apart and figure out how to shave another mm or so off of the acrylic to buy some wiggle room
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This is the screw that goes into the X belt tensioner. So unfortunately I will need more clearance than just that. I think my only good fix here is to removed the strut and the acrylic and figure out how to safely shave another mm off the notches in the acrylic
lol I’m already looking at how far these screws stick out on the YZ plates and thinking about replacing them with shorter screws
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So is it that you have 1/4" of aluminum plus some thickness of acrylic combined to make a strut that’s actually thicker than 1/4"? My struts are 1/4" plywood, and that seems to be OK.
Yes that’s correct. I spoke with Ryan about it and he said I could come out the thickness of the screw heads. But neither of us thought about the x tensioner or the idler pulleys lol. Oh well live and learn. Now to figure out the best way to shave off some of this acrylic
In other news the lights are all installed and working…
In Red just for @vicious1
And one in blue. How it will be 99% of the time
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Ah got it. How about just milling a groove in the aluminum strut in the region where the belt etc go?
Are you intending to work in the dark?
This needs to be seen!!
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Thanks @DougJoseph!!
No that is never the intent lol. But oddly enough it does happen fairly often. My garage lights are on motion sensors that are not in the best placement for all things. And if I stand still long enough they will shut off on me. Most of the time its when I need to see something the most LOL
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That is a possibility. Once I have the strut off the acrylic is just sitting there so I will look at that option first. If I cant come up with a way to get it done without wrecking the acrylic then I will look at the option to mill a grove in the strut the width of the belt tensioner
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Looks Awesome @Jonathjon !
Considered cutting the acrylic into sections (~180mm each depending on spacing between braces) that fit between the Braces? The Aluminum Strut would be in direct contact with the braces. Could bond each acrylic section (E6000) to back of the Aluminum. Curious whether those extra vertical cut acrylic edges sitting against each brace will help increase visible light/glow?
Edit: Hmm, maybe that won’t work given some letters land on the braces. How much space do you need, could you fit long 1/8" or 1/16" even all the way across, then still E6000 thicker acrylic sections between the braces to help diffuse the light?
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So did I, since I was also graduating High School at the time… Which is why I also get any and all Breakfast Club and Ferris Beuller references.
Still trying to come up with good reasons to be able to reference The Black Hole and The Beastmaster with equal aplomb, but I think I’m just “a bit teched in the head”.
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It’s so nice to have found a group of friends again where I am the youngest. 
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barely…
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Those words going across the braces is exactly why I didn’t cut it in sections to fit between the braces.