The pi is powered from the 24V though. So I would at least have to shut it down first. I have been using the switch method. I’m not a huge fan.
I know you decided not to just run the fan from off the extruder fan but… I just did this on my new Ender 3. But I did it with two 12V fans wired in series on the 24V source. It made the fans quieter during use. Not as Quiet as I wanted but it was noticeable. My starting GCode on that printer, starts the bed heating. homes all. Waits for the bed to finish heating then kicks on the extruder heater just before it does a G29 mesh leveling. So the extruder heats up while doing that probing. So my case and extruder fan combination is only off with the steppers in use as long as it takes to heat the bed. Not horrible. But I get what you mean. Eventually you may do something that is just different.
How about using a 5V fan and power it off the same source as the pi? Always on but also a lot less noise.
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I’m not running a case fan, so far haven’t run into any issues.
I think it would be OK to run the case fan and hot end cooling fan off the same pins. if the steppers aren’t moving a lot, the drivers shouldn’t warm up
I switched it to that. It is quite a relief. I guess I’m used to a pretty quiet office.
I found that the fan shroud greatly increases the sound of the fan. In updates to the CAD model, I have widened it a bit.
Hi Stewart, really like the design and with all excellent info and a great documentation by @jeffeb3 I start buying part to build a GridBot V2, about the heated bed, would you mind share where you got the bed? Can’t seems to find a 330mm heat bed in the US also I did’t see a mosfet on the BOM.
Thank you for the great design.
The mosfet isn’t necessary. It was really me experimenting. If you decide to build it, post some photos! I want to see what choices you make on it.
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I’ve used these two and others. I think there are better beds out there. soldering them is not easy. They say 300x300 but they’re really 330x330
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Thank you both, I will definitely post pictures.
Looks like it is going to take until the end of August to get the heat bet in.
GP
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That’s a pretty good price on the bed. Mine would be $60ish plus the $60ish heater that gets glued to it.
I have been combing over my printer settings. I’m currently trying to get a good profile for my gridbot using the prusa slicer. I just found the most annoying feature though.
If you set the printer firmware style to “Marlin”, it will reset the Acceleration, max speeds, etc with M201, M203…
Do some googling, find a github issue. The best way to turn this off is to set the firmware version to reprap/sprinter…!
I think it would be great to have fine control over acceleration settings, maybe increasing them for a functional part, and decreasing them for a pretty part. But to make it this non-obvious it was happening… This is really annoying to me.
/rant.
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The other annoying setting I didn’t realize I had on was “elefant” compensation. It shrinks the xy on the first layer to cpmpensate for squished prints. Since I have been trying to dial in that first layer with Z adjustments, this is really annoying. My fault, for taking profiles off of the Internet, but still. Annoying.
Elephant foot compensation is really handy.
I’m sure it is when you are trying to use it. It’s not so fun when you don’t know it is on.
I played a bit with the gridbot today.
- I installed octoprint instead of the gridbot software. I liked the GB touch screen better than the touchUI, but this is pretty close, and the webUI and plugins are great in octoprint.
- I am pretty happy with my slic3r/prusa-slicer settings. I think I can go faster still, but I am getting good outcomes.
- The Z offset is wrong almost every time. I am wondering if it isn’t probing consistently, or if there is something else going on. Even on small cubes, I have it perfect one print, and it is too high on the next print. The PEI I have is pretty sticky though, so even if it’s almost just laying it down gently on the surface, it is actually sticking. I need to look into the probe repeatability test. I really like this bed. But if I can’t get a reasonably consistent first layer, I will have to find something else. I am tempted to go to an extreme and heat it up, pause for a long time, and then do a full probe each time I print.
- The XY system is great. It seems to be able to go at whatever speed I have asked. I am not sure if I am babying it though, because I am used to slower printers.
- The linear advance also seems to be not exactly perfect. I am really hating the standard linear advance tool. But I have it set at 0.70, and that seems good.
I printed an overhang test. It passed quite easily:
And it printed Ryan’s test part in vase mode, with a brim and no bottom:
In total, I am pretty much in love with it. I love how it looks and how smooth it moves now. It can print fast and big. Definitely an upgrade over my wanhao. It is a lot easier to work on too.
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That looks amazing!!
Realy like the overhang test, what speed and temp did you use?
PS: Parts for my build start to trickle in, but the bed won’t be in until end of August
What speed do people usually report as the “speed” for a print?
I have this set to 80mm/s for perimeters, 40mm/s for external perimeters, 100mm/s infill, and bridging is at 60mm/s. The first layer is 30mm/s. Travel 150mm/s.
Those speeds are faster than I was printing on my wanhao. And they still seem conservative. I may try to push it a bit more, because I don’t want to leave half the time on the table, but I will always keep them conservative. I would rather it run all night than run half the night, and I wake up to a failed print, and half a spool gone.
lol, that is much faster than I print with my CR10s-pro, (usual setting 50, 30, 70 and 50. travel at 120
Just with your settings make sense to build one…
I believe @barry99705 prints faster on his Core XY
Anyways Thank you! this is great!
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Is the bed temp always the same when you probe for Z height? With a bed that large I would fully expect the bed to warp up in the center like a dome. The 300x300 bed on my TAZ 5 does that. If you are probing the z height while cool then it will be wrong after the bed warms up.
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