@Bigchepin My apologies for not answering the question, i got my red plastic door material from TAP plastics online, cut to size was very reasonable. Used some plastic hinges and CA glued them on and screwed to wood stiles. For the door seal, I cut a strip 1” wide and glued to one side of door allowing the other to overlap so no laser light could pike through.
Also, there is a secondary power switch that diverts power to either the laser or the router but not both at same time by design.
so here is a question… when I zero the axis, x hits the stops and zeros just fine then backs off just a tad like it should. when I do the same to Y, it back away from the stops (I’m assuming 10mm). when I hit Y Zero again, it backs away yet another 10mm. Doesn’t matter where the Y is, it just backs away from what I was assuming would be the direction it needs to go to hit the stops.
Sometimes that means that the controller thinks that the switches are triggered. Have you checked the endstop status (M119)? That will list the status of each switch. I would check them compressed and open to make sure they are working as expected.
So the solution was as simple as pulling my head out of my #%@%#%@ but a big thank you to all who took the time to chime in as I would never have figured it out on my own.
I had the wires crossed. the Y limit switches were wired correctly in the NC fashion, however, i had the wrong wires at the pins that connected to the board. the switches had red/blue and black/white wired NC as required. the pins were black/red and white/blue LMAO!
I was very nervous when I made my very first ‘carve’. I created a circle in a square using Lightburn (because that is what I have used for a couple of years for model airplane parts) and saved as DXF file, opened it in Etslcam and converted it to Gcode after selecting the carv and 1/8" v bit - have no idea what I was doing, kept the settings used in drawing the crown. Opened it in Repertier and hit Print. I did record my very first cut/carve. I consider this a success because nothing bad happend (that I know of LOL).
I made a temporary spoil board and attached it to the table and attempted to surface it. that sort of went okay. seems my head unit might not be absolutely perpendicular to the board as the 1" bit left a step in each pass. then I said W T H just v grove the grid, which failed a few times. once it hit the Y end (not stop) and threw it all out of whack. the grid was a bit on mushrooms when completed. then I noticed the belts were super-duper loose… so I tightened them up a bit, tried to get all four even and just tight enough to make a plucking sound when plucked. ran the continuous grid once again and this time the 2" squares were actually 2 inches. I was also able to get the grid to line up on the spoil board in its correct place (learn as we go, right !!! ). so my ugly spoil board with a mess of squares is now good enough to go for cutting . I’ll run this for hours then worry about getting the head perpendicular before surfacing a new spoil board. LOL baby steps… glad I watched what about bob recently…
so it looks like my router is not exactly perpendicular with the spoil board or table. might need a shim because when I surface with 1", there are noticeable steps in the length of the x axis. I will try less stepover and see if there is enough improvement without shimming. but if not, what y’all recommend I use for shimming once I verify no loose nuts and bolts?
Generally 1 or 2 pieces of masking tape is enough to fix most of these tramming issues.
You can also try ansearch of the forum for “tramming” and you will likely find an answer.
My LR is good, my Primo was a bit off, but I actually fixed that with a half turn of the tool mounting screws, one if the tip mount screws wasn’t quite tight enough. Still, even the thickness of a piece of tape makes a discernable difference.
For something more substantial, a strip from an aluminum can also works.
Thanks for the reply. I need to first check all the bolts/nuts… i found a couple quite tight and another very loose. Lol. Still knocking the sawdust off the build i guess. Ordered the Jackpot board so that will be the next adventure. The cnc router works perfectly well as it is, just not friendly with the majority of cad/cam solutions…. Hope this make it all nicer.
after checking that all the Z nuts and bolts (bearings)were similar in smoothness, I noticed the top clamp for the Makita router tab where the small screw inserts has cracked. now I don’t dare use the thing fearing that if it completely brakes, the router will catch and wobble and do a highspeed swan dive off the table… it’s always something right when I think I am right there… lol
does anyone recommend something better than the printed plastic Makita router holder? does anyone make these from aluminum and maybe even better blind nuts on inside of Z axis
The plastic is strong enough, but you have to be careful not to overtighten the bolts. Once you can’t spin the router in the mounts, it’s basicslly tight enough. The instructions definitely say not to try to close the gap…
Those M5 screws can produce way more force than printed plastic will ever be able to take, so you have to take it easy when tightening things.
It’s a natural mistake to make. I was overcautios when first assembling the machine, and the router was able to slip upward in the rings. It was also not tight enough to the Z nuts, so the tramming was off. I very carefully tightened things until it was trammed and didn’t move, and I left it there until I changed out the Makita for a Kobalt.
so i took ryan’s files and sent them off to be printed (do not have a printer… almost pulled the trigger on the Neptune 4Max over Christmas but didn’t want to mess with all the problems others were having) so the new parts should be here when I get back from our family vacation. I had them printed in PETG at 80% fill hoping that they will be strong enough yet offer a bit less brittleness associated with PLA. and yes, that might just reveal how little I know about printing and filaments… which is why I opted to not get a printer LOL.
PETg has more tensile strength, but is less rigid than PLA. PLA is chosen for rigidity.
tsk. The license for these files is “noncommercial” so this isn’t really OK. Ryan sells the parts, so paying anyone else for the parts is not supposed to happen. Ryan provides the files so that anyone could print them for themselves, which is very nice of him, but then having other people profit from his work isn’t quite cricket.
oh hell. didn’t even think about that. Thanks for bringing that to my attention Dan. I do appreciate it. I guess I should have just bought them from Ryan (he’s only a couple hours north of me). I included those two parts in a larger print job for another non V1 project… figured might as well throw them in since I opted not to purchase my own printer at that moment. My apologies to Ryan.
And to be clear, I purchased everything but the DOM and router from Ryan for the Primo build, including the printed parts. I did not see where I could just order a replacement for the Makita router mount… so again, my apologies for having my go-to guy print these for me.