Thanks, but can’t buy it anyway since it’s us. And it isn’t a touchscreen, right? 
Maybe I should use one of my old tablets for Estlcam.
Amazon has a bunch of 1024x600 touch screens (typically advertised for Pi application, but HDMI + USB interface.) I’ve bought a couple, one was crap, but the other works quite well, i have connected it to a Pi, and my laptop as.well.
At the 7" screen size, 1024x600 is about as high resolution as I’d want, excellent for CNC or printer control, OK as a Pi tablet.
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The waveshare ones I have are pretty decent. You print your own enclosure, but you can also adjust the brightness with pwm (if you’re into that):
I was internet famous for a week or so because of that project. It sits on my nightstand and still works fine. I update it occasionally.
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How do you connect the touch if I were to connect it to a PC? USB-A? The Boards we have at school use USB-A to USB-B for the touch capacity, but it might only be that way so stupid people don’t connect their “normal” USB to it and are confused. 
Mine has 1 HDMI port for input, one micro-USB for power, one micro-USB for touch communication, which also connects to 2 USB-A ports which are connected as a USB hub. These ports seem to work, but don’t supply very much power, and don’t work well for things like wireless keyboards or wifi dongles.
This is the picture from the Amazon listing Amazon.ca
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Yeah. The micro USB to USB-A cable shows up as a touch screen (at least in Linux). The other USB for power is separate. The HDMI is also pretty separate.
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My bad… it is NOT a touch screen…. All this time I thought it was… i clicked on the wrong one when purchased. LOL.
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I wanted to buy a refurbished mini-pc for the LR 3, but wanted to add a touchscreen. I randomly browsed and found this:
Including customs and delivery from the UK it costs me ~100€, which is a lot under the recommended price or even compared to other resellers (because it does not have a stand) and only marginally more than those small waveshare screens that you recommended (and which seem great, but would not add too much). I am going to hook it up to my laptop and maybe switch to a mini-pc later on. 
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Like the size and storage very nice
So i have been so busy I have nothing to add at this time other than I did purchased the material for the spoil board. The thickness (i forget exactly) but it sits just above the extruded frame so I will be able to work on longer pieces than the “working area” of the cnc router.
Only been 14 months and the project is close to complete. LMAO… the laser and electronics do work and I have been cutting out many model airplane kits from balsa for online orders…. Already paid for the cnc primo and the laser machines plus the cabinet… so I have that going for me.
Cheers
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Almost ready to do the test crown…. Just been swamped with real life and work… definitely spoiled during the lockdown
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Maybe this fathers’ day I’ll take time for myself and attempt the crown… pen drawing… I don’t have a pen holder so I’m going to just tape it to the router mount… cross my fingers (that I don’t spill my bourbon).
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need more time in a day
Wow, not sure How I missed this, you did an AWESOME job on that setup! I may need to up my game now.
Thank you… it sort of just came together… didn’t plan for it but had a vision once i began the CNC build on the cabinet.
What material is recommended for spoil board that can be had at big box stores for a reasonable price? And by reasonable, I mean cheap without saying that. LOL
Remember that the spoil board is sacrificial, so make it easy to replace.
I’m using 3/4" MDF on my 16" x 21" table.
MDF is generally.imexpensive. I use 5/8" (15mm) on the Primo, but 3/4" (18mm) on the LR3.
MDF has some concerns, not the least of which is rhe dust that it produces which has a lot of nasty stuff in it.
OSB is also usually inexpensive. (This is relative, of course, all lumber seems to be much more than it should be.) It isn’t particularly smooth though. It won’t matter once you have been using the machine a while. Still a lot of glue in the dust, but… less.
I suppose you could use foam with a thin sheet of something over top. This could let you use sub-floor plywood, typically 5mm (3/16") contact cemented to 15mm insulation foam. (You want the depth to protect the table/machine) this would probably cost the least, but I don’t know about its longevity. Of course you could not surface the plywood, but you could maybe surface the foam before you glue the plywood down… Hmmm…
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I was thinking about using 1” foam with 3/4” MDF for spoil. Hadn’t thought about gluing it to the foam but will now that it was suggested. I have been roped into building kitchen cabinets for my son and daughter in law so once again, my projects are on hold.
It’s been a long time since i started this build… so i have forgotten quite a bit so forgive the stupid question(s). Will this MPCNC work well cutting parts out of 3/4” Baltic birch?