I’ve laser cut nearly 100 plane kits in the last few months… I recently was thinking that the MPCNC router might be better for cutting 1/4” & 1/2” thick parts. I can do it on the laser but i was hoping to get away from having to burn through the thick stuff. How thick of balsa do you typically laser.
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Most of it is 1/8" and thinner for laser cut parts I’m doing, so not working with the thicker parts there. I have been working with the NEJE A40640 which should be able to handle thicker though.
I just got an E40 module in, so I’ll see what it can do.
I also admit to cheating, and having some atuff up to 1/2" laser cut at a sign shop run by friends of mine. They have a really nice 120W CO2 laser that does a magnificent job. (That’s where I got my 1/2" acrylic YZ plates for my LR3 done.)
For 1/4" and thicker parts, I guess with a good hold-down solution, a 1/8" bit should work if you are willing to X-acto cut to square necessary corners. I think you’d break too much material with thinner sheets though.
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The A40640 is an awesome diode laser. It will do 1/2 inch (eventually. Lol). Have the 3 Max with that module. As for the MPCNC router, I guess I just need to finish the darn thing and give it a go. 
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@HyeBuilder nice table/cart. Have you run them at the same time yet? I was wondering if there were any vibration issues from router to laser.
BTW can you share a link to where you purchased your door material? I’ve been having a difficult time finding laser rated options. Thx!
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Thanks and no, have run them at same time… my MPCNC is not quite finished and since both when operating would req 100% of my attention, i doubt I’d risk catastrophic event(s) just to save a bit of time. LOL
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so now i have time to dedicate to finishing this year long build of my cnc router. I have the SKR Pro1.2, 5x 2209 drivers and TFT35 E3 V3 -flashed- (aka SKRPro1_2) and the 16GB SD Card. It has been so long that I have completely forgotten what to do first. motors are wired through drag chains, etc. I am at the point of wiring up the controller. I almost think i read/saw somewhere that I needed to alter the pins on the main controller board? if there is a step by step available, I’d sure appreciate a link.
Big progress for me (now in my 14th month of project). Today i wired up this puppy and tested the X, Y and Z axis. Wired up the duel end stops (still have to mount them to the trucks but they are wired up).
Everything seems to be moving along smoothly without issues (yet). However, one thing does bother me…. When I cut power to the controller, the Z axis falls to the bottom. I have not gotten any further than these manual testing maneuvers. However, I would like to know what y’all have done to address the Z axis falling by gravity once power to controller is turned off.
Thanks in advance… i can build stuff… programming… not so much.
I had a short video of successful test of the axis movements… but cannot upload .mov files apparantly.
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So now onto the final wiring. My plan is to incorporate both the MPCNC and my LASER machine into one neat spiffy unseen package while utilizing one power supply for both machines (which will NEVER run simultaneously). Here is what I came up with, will wire it up tomorrow and hopefully be ready for the crown over weekend. I’m getting excited again.
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Looking good!
Waiting on one more relay to arrive…. Then button this project up and will run the first crown test… waiting with baited breath and eager anticipation…… 
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Looks sweet!
Help. Lol. Something happened from the time i first wired everything up and it worked just fine, to when I ran the permanent wiring and now the thing isn’t working. Upon powering up, the screen flashes the V1 engineering logo then rather than going to the normal screen where I can select move the axis, it goes to a screen with an image to the left Marlin Mode and then Touch Mode to the right. It never did this before. And it does nothing else… just stuck on that screen.
What did i do to screw this up?
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That screen shows up when you hold down the knob.
So either the knob is pushed in by the case, or the gray wires are wrong and it is looking like it pressed (electrically).
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Thank you, I double checked the wires, and I have them correct,i also posted on the V1 Facebook group where it was suggested the knob as well as the screen being too tight against the panel. When I loosened it up that seemed to be the culprit. Wheeew. Feel as though I dodged a bullet
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Decided to purchase a dedicated mini computer for the machines (was first looking at a computer stick), settled on one with Mini PC Intel 12th Gen N95(up to 3.40Ghz) 16GB DDR4 512GB M.2 SSD Mini Desktop Computer Windows 11 Pro Mini Computers Support 4K Dual Display/BT 4.2/ WiFi 5 which hopefully will do all I need (probably overkill). It will run the Lightburn software for the laser projects (where the files I create will reside on my network so i can sit comfortably at my office where I do my drawings) and access the web-based applications to run the CNC router. Will have a bluetooth keyboard with trackball and the screen (have a spare monitor) will be attached to the side of the cabinet. The entire idea behind this project is to have a self-contained duel purpose cabinet with the only cable being the power cord. That way I can roll it anywhere for use.
Oh, yah, the 6” air extraction vent will be magnetically detachable when not in use
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That looks great. It kind of reminds me of one of the first autonomous vehicles, ALV:
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Is that small screen a touchscreen? If yes, where canI get one of those? Would want to hook it up as a second monitor. 
Sure is, got it off amazon. I am opting for a 22” 75hz monitor that will arrive on Saturday. It’s a great little monitor but i like to actually see what I’m doing. LOL
Here is the link… too bad I don’t get any commish for the referral. LOL
It’s a great little touch HD screen when you need to test or need a screen on the fly. I still prefer full size for everyday use.