There’s a fusion model in here somewhere.
Some of us are putting rail backers on the Y rail since it’s unsupported stock. Helps with resonances when printer faster than 200mm/s.
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Nice!
Strain relief and CAN Bus board mounts being added to the Core?
My hot glue and self fusing silicone tape works, but is pretty janky.
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I pushed the v4 harder than I ever have before the last time I was home and never broke anything. But I think it has a lot more left in it once I figure a few more minor things like the bad idler and whatever else I find. And I definitely plan to push the v5 to its absolute limits as well lol. Have actually been looking at upgrading the x&y drivers on the v4 to be able to push a little more without overheating them and possibly even going higher voltage. Just to see what it can actually do.
So I completely agree it will be cool to push the crap out of it and break things. Then we know how to improve it even more until we find the next weak link. I’m all for that!
While you’re looking at extruded mounts what about this one?
And I agree with @azab2c can board mount would sure be nice
I would add extra room and mount it behind the core instead of on top if that doesn’t mess with your accelerometer. But yes you can add it anywhere.
I plan on pushing mine as far as reasonable cooling allows. I am not adding a CPAP machine or side blowers. 1 really nice 24V fan, slight chance I would consider two but I doubt it.
I think that will work I see back and bottom screw holes. It will for sure work with the bottom and top back holes.
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I get that. I haven’t been able to pass up what a single 5015 can handle yet so I still have a ways to go. I did pick up a cpap blower for the E5+ to try out because I was curious lol. It’s a lot smaller than I expected and takes all the weight off the print head so that’s what had me curious the most. I’ve seen the side mount fans but never really looked at adding them. I’m not opposed to it but I really think by the time you are going THAT fast your past getting a good print quality so what’s the point anyways. I want fast and good print quality lol
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The rails should be horizontal, not vertical, which is how every freaking printer uses them. 
Yea, those Y rails are right, can’t tell in X.
I just found a design feature I didn’t know I implemented (sounds good right?)… I could not get the belts out of the core, so I just unscrewed the M3’s and the belts came out pretty easy after that.
Is multi-filament a consideration with this design? I’ve always wanted to be able to run a water soluble support filament along with the main stuff (usually pla, sometimes petg here). I expect that’d mean a bowden setup. I’m not sure what work well as I’ve mostly run direct drive all metal on my ender.
It has come up a few times, looks like the 3D chameleon is the easiest for 2-4 filaments. If you run Klipper and want more filament, the ercf is good. The plug and play option would be a pallet.
ASA is super easy to print and it doesn’t degrade outside at all. I’ve purposedly left a part outside for six months in the harshest possible conditions and it stayed pretty much exactly the same as when it came out of the printer, it’s really impressive.
PC is an absolute nightmare to print, it doesn’t want to stick to the bed, it warps a lot. An enclosure is pretty much mandatory. It also is prone to load fracture, which means that it will develop cracks if it’s under pressure for a long time, like for example in the spots were screws are tightened.
I broke my printer a few times while attempting to print PC. Never managed to get a successful print with it. At least not a big one, it was ok for very small parts. That’s the only material that actually managed to destroy my huge printer: warped, print head smashed on it, game over.
I print lots of stuff with ASA, basically anything that’s intended to see outside light at some point, or that needs to resist some heat. From my personal tests I can say that ASA has a remarkable thermal stability, I used ASA for a few parts that had special wrinkle paint coatings on them. These parts needed to be baked in an oven at 100 degreeC for 30-40 minutes. They passed this test with flying colors, including relatively large parts, no deformation, no warping, perfect result. I even printed an ASA part for the muffler of my motorcycle and it survived thought the hottest days of summer, when the exhaust was scorching hot.
ASA also sands very easily, which makes it perfect for creating parts with a nice finish.
The only downside to ASA in my opinion is that it isn’t nearly as stiff as PLA, it’s relatively soft. If it had the stiffness of PLA I would use it for everything.
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The upside to PC though is if you can get it to print it surpasses PLA’s rigidity, it is tougher, far far more heat resistant. https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
CPAP blower what??? I missed something somewhere.
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $50.62 19％ Off | Mellow 24V Brushless Centrifugal Air Blower DC WS7040 7040 Blower Fan 6.5kpa For VzBoT HevORT 3D Printer
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$50 is not as bad as I expected. The tube should provide a good place to run wires next to as well. Make sure it is not too stiff.
So close. Need to move it a couple mm’s. I can make this a pocket so you will not see the switch, I figure it will be with the umbilical anyway so It would not hide much…but it is an option.
The slot on the back is for routing wires from the bottom. Last thing to add is somewhere to attach the umbilical.
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I’m curious how the belt lengths on the v5 compare with the v4… wonder if the upgrade will require longer belts (replacement).
Yeah, I think it is going to be a couple inches longer. We added the rear steppers so that requires an extra offset, and currently we can do 1 belt instead of two…but two will still work. I am not sure if there is an easy way for me to check that length but I will give it a look pretty soon.