Been looking at the ERCF V2 a lot. Would love to be able to load up several partial spools and not have to be standing around waiting for a filament change!
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Same,
As my V4 is already paneled it makes sense that I can mount it on the back and feed it from underneath…
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I was not in favor of M3s. In my opinion, these are too small and while trying to tighten them with enough torque some broke while I had to drill out others because I messed with the hex head. I would prefer to see M4 - M5s where possible. I am still in favor of T-nuts if the question is to use them or mill an enclosure. The latter can make folks hesitant to make this printer because it’s too much to mill at a time/ Also, I think many will prefer plexiglass / lexan to wood panels for looks and that is even more expensive
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I cant disagree with this. While I never broke any they are a pain and easy to strip the heads out. But good luck on M4, AFAIK Ryan doesn’t sock any M4, so your going to have to do some serious convincing LOL
The linear rails require M3x8. So if we do an M4 stuff for assembly, then we would need both.
In my builds, all the interior stuff is M3 and exterior is M4 since I had to buy in all in small quantities anyway.
That is all custom stuff it doesn’t really matter what size since no extrusion hardware is currently stocked. If we stick with M3 and I did stock it it would be far less expensive.
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Started with wood panels, realized how much labor was going into the project, had fomo seeing $$$ HDPE paneled builds. Made sheet metal back panel, but removed because access to was PITA once the electronics enclosure was placed under the bed. Currently have snake oil clips retaining the rear panel. Removable rear panel means less rigidity/squaring provided on the back. Acrylic hazes when exposed to IPA, so ended up with polycarbonate despite scratching easily.
Tightening up bolts to secure polycarbonate panels caused small cracks. Should’ve used tpu or silicone washers I guess. If M4 isn’t an option, and the TPU/silicone washers don’t work out, then I’d personally end up using more M5s instead of M3 (flanged head) to secure panels.
Would picking a recommended bolt size make it easier when sharing Panel’s DXF files for people to mill?
Not clear what panel materials I’d use if building without extrusion, or minimal extrusion.
Some unconventional things… Depending on usage goals, if goal is super cost efficient, maybe high temp parts, then would’ve made different material decisions (drywall/ply exterior panels, Rockwool or spray foam insulation, milled Steel/Alu interior panels thin enough to bend on common brake (e.g 18" brake from harbor freight for $45), or DIY mostly printed (light duty) metal brake made with 2020 extrusion…
I would think this will end up like the current MP3DP where you can go in and edit the bolt holes for whatever size hardware you want to use and spit out a DXF with the correct size holes to mill on the CNC. Could even make that part parametric where you could edit the parameter for the size hole you want
Are you planning a “kit” like for the CNCs/ZEN?
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Coming with an aerospace background, I sourced some of the good mil-spec stuff for my printer. Particularly, these wires are cheap and have super tough insulation making them good candidates for wire bundles prone to chafing, like the ones that go to the extruder:
I used high temp adel clamps to secure Z-motor wires to the bed support:
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Personally, I avoid M3 in anything I design like the plague. My opinion is that M4 should be standard with M3 being the exception for anything that specifically needs it.
If you think you can get away with everything being M3 then that’s one thing, but if it ends up being a mix, I’d personally always err on it being a mix of 99% M4 with M3s where needed.
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Stepper require M3 and the linear rails require M3. At that point if feels odd to use something else for 12 or so of the rest of the screws to the extrusion. Everything else is M5. The current BOM is very small.
The LR2 has a wild BOM, I learned my lesson. Extra time, extra questions. The more the hardware is the same the fewer people mistake what goes where. The easier the instructions.
I think it makes sense to keep the few printed parts screws matching M3. They need very little torque. Very little. The exterior stuff is variable anyway. Some want thick, some want thin so buying your own external stuff is easy.
The one paneled build I have I used M3 on the exterior, when I took a panel off the screw holes were deformed from too much force so be careful.
With that said…that is still a few decisions away. It is easy enough for me to make those holes parametric. Kind of a non-issue.
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If there is a place I would absolutely replace M3 with M4s it will be XY motors mounts to the extrusion. During my build I had to unscrew them many times and they always feel flimsy just hanging on the tensioner M5s (that cracked once). An alternative will be to make a notch for the extrusion channel that will only allow motor mounts to move forward and backward:
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Right, but I really like the steel gantry pieces. Lots of clones of the pieces available, too, because open source.
If you print them though, plenty of ways to add functionality to them. For my laser, I opted to bolt the steel to the printed part, of course I could have printed a mount for the wheels only using the measurements from their part, but this seems more solid, and the weight penalty isn’t that big considering the design.
I like the idea of using the wheels as the belt idlers, but it means 6mm belt, and that gets back to inventory issues for Ryan, so not expecting that. It works fine for my laser though. It worked for earlier V1 machines, and the laser will have way less stress on the belt drive. Actually a printer Z axis should also have less strain on the belt drive, for that matter. It can have a low accel rate.
The extrusion seems to be able to remain true for the spans I need. It can be flexed, but seems to come back to true when excess force is removed.
For the printer Z axis, I would figure 3 mini POM wheels on the extrusion, 2 idlers and the motor, and a bed support as the assembly.
Since I figured it with the v4, I would expect 1 cable bundle to the Z support with wires for the bed, thermistor, and three motors in it.
Wasn’t able to use regular M3 for panel exterior, bought wider flanged head M3. If minimizing number parts is a goal, then M5. Unless you have a bolt packing machine, in which case M4 for panels?
This is what you are talking about correct? or something like it at least.
I get Ryan not wanting to end up with a crazy BOM. And he isn’t going to deal with any of the outside panels or anything like that. That will always be self source due to shipping and what not. Him making that part parametric is a great idea I think. Then we all have the choice for whatever size hardware we want to use
I think those are going to be self source and it makes sense from an inventory perspective for Ryan. Now if he would sell a kit with everything needed to build the printer motion parts with motors bolts screws whatever, that would be nice!
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Steve Builds ( @Steve_P maybe? ) had a nice stream on Sunday for his switchwire build. Am going to use those LED diffusers. Solvent welded my lid, but the VHB tape adhered Lid panels is a neat design, and watching Steve’s assembly sequence was very helpful to learn from.
I didn’t watch entire stream, but recall him mentioning reworking/updating Voron Trident. Could be interesting to know and learn from what Voron Trident folks like and dislike about their design, assembly, performance and maintenance too.
Yes, I used those for the Y axis on my Sucker for Punishment Laser build
I used the ones for the Ender 3 style carriage for the X axis, but could have used the same ones easily enough. The action on them is quite smooth. The cammed wheels provide adjustability.
After enough use they would need some adjustment, but for the Z axis, even under heavy usage it would take months to equal the wear of a single Primo core print job on an Ender 3, so I’m sure it will be fine for extended use.
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That is already added to the list in the first post. Hold those thoughts until we get there please. If I start taking notes I will just have a list of requests. If the part is still the same we will get there and add it. 99% sure it will be M3, if possible I can leave room for more of them But adding 4x M4’s to a Bom just for those seems odd.
I am two days back on orders. still packing boxes.
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Holy crap this discussion took off!
Just a quick question, has there been a discussion about what materials the printer is going to be able to print? I know the material of choice here is PLA and with that the usual suspects like PETG and TPU are included.
Would love to see a neatly integrated enclosure for ABS/ASA. Or even hold air temps for some PC blends and Nylon. That’s a huge ask for a MP3DP made with PLA parts but man that would be a huge deal if you could engineer something like that. Don’t know if there is a DIY printer that has ever pulled that off yet.
We haven’t gotten to that point yet but I can foresee anything being possible. As of now with the V4 Ryan’s files are set up for a hemera, but you can mod and put any hot end you want to. The parts can be printed out of something else to be able to withstand higher temps as well. My core and fan are both printed from ASA and I believe @azab2c printed all of his printed from PETG. Honestly sky’s the limit its all in what you want to make.
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