Agreed. In you enclose it you can print anything you want depending on your extruder of choice. That will be as universal as we can possibly make it.
That is one choice I know no one will ever agree on.
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Okay, a little one,
9mm belt, any other options to look at?
The kit I just got for my Mercury One.1 conversion on my Ender 5 Plus came with 6mm belt. I was so surprised by that. Then started looking at it seems thats a really popular choice. I’m just so used to the 10mm belt we run on everything else I guess lol.
One thought on belt size, if we went down to a smaller belt could that give you more options for routing to
- 1 - free up more space that everyone is looking for
- 2 - Give more options for tool heads? Maybe something thats already popular and heavily modded for many different extruder/hot ends?
Printed PETG, glad for it after seeing some PLA Cores not fair well when printing hotter materials. Am not printing super fast like @Lithium366 who’s using CF-PETG parts. Some ASA arrived, so will be printing @probrwr’s core tuned for BIQU H2 with ASA based on settings/learnings from @Jonathjon.
Double walled my enclosure, planning the same and seals for doors and removable panels. Plan to vent and make-up air via rear vent/ductwork. Long term goal was to at least do decent PC and Nylon prints. Metal print/sintering seems like something that’ll requires next level frame/panels well beyond what’s possible with this design having steppers inside the heated chamber.
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Um, thought you only stock 10mm belt? I like the 10mm, if you want to go larger, even better.
Shush!! He’s trying to get out of his bubble!! LOL
HA. I’m fighting bed adhesion BAD. But I did start the actual parts just a little while ago. Started with the skirt so I can get some parts done but not start right off with motion parts. I cant seem to get the chamber hot enough. Probably because I could fit an ender 3 in with the V4 in this chamber LOL. Going to have to find some kind of active heater I think. Spent an hour with the bed at 110° C and a fan circulating the air and the highest I could get to was 40°c. Not trying to get to 60. but would like to be able to maintain 45-50
Since we have the model for our builds, was thinking about CNC/print filler removable blocks to replace unused space/voids with insulated non flammable material, or at least reduce overall air volume and surface area of volume needing to be heated. Won’t be creating filler blocks until I bolt the bloody doors on.
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Mine was never a fully enclosed build like yours, Mine has open front and top. So I bought this off of Amazon…
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We are not locked into my inventory. If there is a good reason to change I have no issue.
Is it better or does it increase the moving mass and inertia? 6mm is smaller and lighter if it is enough I still have that hardware in inventory.
Do we go back to twisted cable?
There are options but I have zero issue with 9mm stuff.
I don’t see where anything larger is needed. If it was then all these others would be running it as well. That being said the 10mm belt doesn’t bother me at all. I just wonder if going smaller would give you different/better options for routing and terminating. Coming up with something different for mounting to the core for sure LOL
Careful with that logic, they very well could just be using their current inventory.
No different terminations if anything smaller is harder. We can save a bit of space with 6mm hardware but that takes long M3 screws and the bearings do not last very long.
The hardware I use has M5 holes and much larger bearings. All my old 6mm printers part of the yearly maintenance was swapping idlers from powdered bearings.
For me, it is longevity was I chose them, and that lead to the M5 screw standard around here. Maybe there are better options?
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That is the only reason I started this.
Although it has been revised at least twice now. I have not had a single failure since. The latest one is much more stout and works perfect.
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Like I said before I have no issues with the 10mm belt, or 9. Which ever. If the parts will last longer on the 10mm belt then I see no reason to change it.
The core deal I get that you haven’t had any failures. But AFAIK you only ever print PLA. Anyone wanting to print hotter materials will run into more risk of needing to change out parts and what not. I hope all my stuff makes it though what I am putting it through now LOL. That being said its just a royal pain to get set up. If you don’t get the belts just right then they are either too long or too short. When I put this core on the other day I tried to get them just right and still ended up too tight on the right motor and too loose on the left one. And to get the gantry square correctly I needed to loosen the right one but couldn’t. I know its all my mistakes and nothing that’s your fault. But something where I could just loosen a screw and move it over one tooth would be worlds easier. The way it is now if your printer isn’t dialed in perfect its either to tight or too loose. I know you want to die on this hill but try and remember the less experienced guys like me who are also building this, and also the ones printing more than just PLA
Edit to add. I also think something more universal would be better suited as well, if possible. So the CAD challenged like my self can have easier options for other hotends
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For 300mm and larger builds. Would you gain much from using 15mm, assembly, performance, print quality, maintenance wise? I’m assuming/hoping longer shaft on the steppers with captured ends, maybe changing stepper from being bottleneck if high flow nozzle used.
If you want to print ASA, you will need to print your parts out of ASA or similar. I can only assume that means a few stages of upgrades to get that capacity. Probably start with ABS and that might get you an ASA set fo you are careful.
I use PLA on my printer because it is not enclosed and is not a requirement for anyone. I think I might have even mentioned PETG being a good option for most in the docs.
We will get there. Currently there is more than 10mm of adjustment. If we need more we can do that, or we use a belt holding method that does not require 4 mm of that to secure. When we get there you will see the tradeoffs and why I did it. I am very excited to see what other ways there are but it is not easy on a coreXY.
What hill? Everything here is up for discussion, but we are not at the belt mounting stage not even close.
Start sketching up what you think is more universal than the 6 holes the current one has. When we get there you will see what will and will not work.
You are starting to jump ahead. We have a lot of ground to cover and it is easier to approach each subject as we get there or if you see something interfering with the decision at hand.
Every choice we make narrows down our options later. I am trying to start with the major ones so I don’t end up starting 6 different builds.
I have been told several times 500mm+ axes, belts start to become an issue. I assume that is because no matter the width the shear length required to wrap around the printer 8 times starts the staring of everything just to keep it tight enough not to ghost.
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Sine I still have an issue with a “belt imprint” I think (might be incorrect) that a smaller belt will have a smaller imprint due to less surface being in contact with pulleys.
Are you using idlers with teeth on the bends where the teeth are in contact? I am pretty sure that is the only reason to get that is trying to user a smooth idler on a toothed belt face.
That was me trying to keep it light and poke fun, but I’m sure it didn’t come across correctly over text. My apologies.
You are right and my bad. It came up and my brain just jumped on it, still fresh from just changing it out.
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My best advice about thinking ahead is if you know you want a different belt termination Or any other special feature, start looking now. When that choice comes up be prepared with ideas, or sketches, and reasons for that particular style.
I am interested in you guys getting to see how some of these choices get forced when it come down to it. Or what the tradeoff is to make it happen. Hint, on the core it is size and mass, more mass means slower accelerations (slower overall prints), larger core means larger footprint, longer more cost in rails. The better more efficient we are in other places means we have headroom elsewhere.
Another aspect is throwing money at a problem tends to mean the design is flawed. So if we can do things on a budget, for a little more, higher quality parts, we tend to get more reliability not performance. If you need the best of the best to make something work the design is poor, or it is going to Mars.
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