Right, but I really like the steel gantry pieces. Lots of clones of the pieces available, too, because open source.
If you print them though, plenty of ways to add functionality to them. For my laser, I opted to bolt the steel to the printed part, of course I could have printed a mount for the wheels only using the measurements from their part, but this seems more solid, and the weight penalty isn’t that big considering the design.
I like the idea of using the wheels as the belt idlers, but it means 6mm belt, and that gets back to inventory issues for Ryan, so not expecting that. It works fine for my laser though. It worked for earlier V1 machines, and the laser will have way less stress on the belt drive. Actually a printer Z axis should also have less strain on the belt drive, for that matter. It can have a low accel rate.
The extrusion seems to be able to remain true for the spans I need. It can be flexed, but seems to come back to true when excess force is removed.
For the printer Z axis, I would figure 3 mini POM wheels on the extrusion, 2 idlers and the motor, and a bed support as the assembly.
Since I figured it with the v4, I would expect 1 cable bundle to the Z support with wires for the bed, thermistor, and three motors in it.
Wasn’t able to use regular M3 for panel exterior, bought wider flanged head M3. If minimizing number parts is a goal, then M5. Unless you have a bolt packing machine, in which case M4 for panels?
I get Ryan not wanting to end up with a crazy BOM. And he isn’t going to deal with any of the outside panels or anything like that. That will always be self source due to shipping and what not. Him making that part parametric is a great idea I think. Then we all have the choice for whatever size hardware we want to use
I think those are going to be self source and it makes sense from an inventory perspective for Ryan. Now if he would sell a kit with everything needed to build the printer motion parts with motors bolts screws whatever, that would be nice!
Steve Builds ( @Steve_P maybe? ) had a nice stream on Sunday for his switchwire build. Am going to use those LED diffusers. Solvent welded my lid, but the VHB tape adhered Lid panels is a neat design, and watching Steve’s assembly sequence was very helpful to learn from.
I didn’t watch entire stream, but recall him mentioning reworking/updating Voron Trident. Could be interesting to know and learn from what Voron Trident folks like and dislike about their design, assembly, performance and maintenance too.
I used the ones for the Ender 3 style carriage for the X axis, but could have used the same ones easily enough. The action on them is quite smooth. The cammed wheels provide adjustability.
After enough use they would need some adjustment, but for the Z axis, even under heavy usage it would take months to equal the wear of a single Primo core print job on an Ender 3, so I’m sure it will be fine for extended use.
That is already added to the list in the first post. Hold those thoughts until we get there please. If I start taking notes I will just have a list of requests. If the part is still the same we will get there and add it. 99% sure it will be M3, if possible I can leave room for more of them But adding 4x M4’s to a Bom just for those seems odd.
I am two days back on orders. still packing boxes.
Just a quick question, has there been a discussion about what materials the printer is going to be able to print? I know the material of choice here is PLA and with that the usual suspects like PETG and TPU are included.
Would love to see a neatly integrated enclosure for ABS/ASA. Or even hold air temps for some PC blends and Nylon. That’s a huge ask for a MP3DP made with PLA parts but man that would be a huge deal if you could engineer something like that. Don’t know if there is a DIY printer that has ever pulled that off yet.
We haven’t gotten to that point yet but I can foresee anything being possible. As of now with the V4 Ryan’s files are set up for a hemera, but you can mod and put any hot end you want to. The parts can be printed out of something else to be able to withstand higher temps as well. My core and fan are both printed from ASA and I believe @azab2c printed all of his printed from PETG. Honestly sky’s the limit its all in what you want to make.
The kit I just got for my Mercury One.1 conversion on my Ender 5 Plus came with 6mm belt. I was so surprised by that. Then started looking at it seems thats a really popular choice. I’m just so used to the 10mm belt we run on everything else I guess lol.
One thought on belt size, if we went down to a smaller belt could that give you more options for routing to
1 - free up more space that everyone is looking for
2 - Give more options for tool heads? Maybe something thats already popular and heavily modded for many different extruder/hot ends?
Double walled my enclosure, planning the same and seals for doors and removable panels. Plan to vent and make-up air via rear vent/ductwork. Long term goal was to at least do decent PC and Nylon prints. Metal print/sintering seems like something that’ll requires next level frame/panels well beyond what’s possible with this design having steppers inside the heated chamber.
Shush!! He’s trying to get out of his bubble!! LOL
HA. I’m fighting bed adhesion BAD. But I did start the actual parts just a little while ago. Started with the skirt so I can get some parts done but not start right off with motion parts. I cant seem to get the chamber hot enough. Probably because I could fit an ender 3 in with the V4 in this chamber LOL. Going to have to find some kind of active heater I think. Spent an hour with the bed at 110° C and a fan circulating the air and the highest I could get to was 40°c. Not trying to get to 60. but would like to be able to maintain 45-50
Since we have the model for our builds, was thinking about CNC/print filler removable blocks to replace unused space/voids with insulated non flammable material, or at least reduce overall air volume and surface area of volume needing to be heated. Won’t be creating filler blocks until I bolt the bloody doors on.
I don’t see where anything larger is needed. If it was then all these others would be running it as well. That being said the 10mm belt doesn’t bother me at all. I just wonder if going smaller would give you different/better options for routing and terminating. Coming up with something different for mounting to the core for sure LOL
Careful with that logic, they very well could just be using their current inventory.
No different terminations if anything smaller is harder. We can save a bit of space with 6mm hardware but that takes long M3 screws and the bearings do not last very long.
The hardware I use has M5 holes and much larger bearings. All my old 6mm printers part of the yearly maintenance was swapping idlers from powdered bearings.
For me, it is longevity was I chose them, and that lead to the M5 screw standard around here. Maybe there are better options?
