The case is this one — the variation of the base that allows for 40mm fan.
https://www.printables.com/model/643082-lowrider-v3-mpcnc-jackpot-cnc-controller-board-cas
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The lid has plexiglas window, and there are holes on the side (designed by Ryan) matching the ports on the side of the board.
This could be me being nit picky but electrical interference could be the issue. Maybe pulling the cables to one side might help.
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Relocate all of the copper wires in your case to not cross near the PCB antenna that is opposite the USB connector on the ESP32. See if that makes any difference.
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Jinx
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OK, will try. Basically, this case is small, tight quarters, and some of my wires are too long. This will take some doing.
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There should be a ton of space under the board.
There is, but my wires are so, so much longer than they need to be. I have folded bands of wires down under, and at the end. I probably should redo the wiring and crimping and cut out a bunch of excess, but I don’t have motivation for that! 
Unless I’m just doing it wrong I have all my wires come up though the holes in the bottom of the case and my excess wire is zip tied in the beam. No wires going over top of the board at all
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Yeah, if I was not so sleepy I’d probably have come up with that approach! Sleepy me is not the brightest me.
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Sounds like its time to give yourself a break and catch up on some rest!!! You’ve been burning the candle at both ends for a while now lol
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I’m working on that too. Have to be careful to not let my days and nights get rotated off kilter.
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Success!
I unscrewed the Jackpot board from the base, lifted it up in the air, wrapped the wires on top … around underneath it, without even unplugging them, molded and shaped them a bit, and then pressed the board back down into position and screwed it down. This did mean that I had a pretty significant trunk of wires exiting at the bottom of the board — while existing holes (in the shape of the V1E logo) are up high, and this caused a binding of wires between the lid and the board that prevented the lid from being slid on completely.
In my various remixes for the SKR cases, I notched the bottom of the lid so that it could be removed without threading wires through holes, and just now I had to manually make cuts in this lid to create a notch at the bottom, so that trunk of wires could exit without binding between the Jackpot and the lid.
I will probably remix the case to add that notch for any users who haven’t printed it yet, but would like to.
Finally, the result of this was that I was able to have full strength Wi-Fi connectivity bars instead of only one bar. Very good.
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Could also just make a note to run the wires up though the bottom holes instead of through the lid like we did on the SKR case. The bottom holes work MUCH better!
Either way I’m gad you were able to get it running!!! Waiting on the last part for the floating dust shoe to come off the printer and then hopefully ill get to level and square my full sheet up today!
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With all these clear cases now, someone needs to do custom cable sleeves like in PC building and add RGB to the controller box.
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Sounds like someone just volunteered to show us how its done LOL
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Everyone wants me to break my perfectly good machine. I have enough broken things
- Oh try this new Jackpot board
- Look at this new Kobalt router
- Add WLED to your setup
- Rewire your machine
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I’m currently using an old iPhone as the controller for the Jackpot.
I’m thinking of doing a remix of the lid as “The iPhone Holder” edition.
According to Google Fu,
An iPhone charger delivers 5 Watts (5 volts at 1000 mA ). A Retina iPad mini charger delivers 10 watts (5.1 volts at 2100 mA).
I’m now pondering about the possibility of building a wireless iPhone charger into the lid. LOL
It would mean the case would need to be longer, it would seem.
C’mon, you’ve got a disk sander, don’t you? You should be able to get that down to length, easy…
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That would block the antenna.
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