NEW VER: Jackpot CNC Controller Board case with 25mm added room, and plexiglas window v1.1

Download from Printables: Printables

NOTE: This is v1.1. If you were looking for v1.0 - click here.

Changes in this “v1.1” remix:

  • Change to the BASE:
    • Created some additional space for wiring by trimming out some unneeded thickness leftover from the previous “add 25mm” remix. i.e. “Trimmed some fat.” :joy:

BASE “before” - v1.0:

BASE “after” - v1.1:

  • Changes to the LID:
    • Made the “window sills” a little bit deeper, to make it easier to hide any unsightly glue that would otherwise be visible after attaching the window, and to allow more forgiveness if the acrylic window piece happens to get cut less than perfectly.
    • Added notches at the bottom of the lid, so wiring can pass there instead of being “threaded through a hole” — allowing the lid to be installed / removed without having to deal with wiring in the process, and without disturbing wiring. See my comment below from over here:

In my various remixes for the SKR cases, I notched the bottom of the lid so that it could be removed without threading wires through holes, and just now I had to manually make cuts in this lid to create a notch at the bottom, so that trunk of wires could exit without binding between the Jackpot and the lid.

LID “before” - v1.0:

LID “after” - v1.1:

All the remaining info is copied and pasted from the “v1.0” release (except the photos / renders are updated):

LowRider v3 CNC: new Jackpot board getting its heat sinks installed:

Just finished my remix work on a Jackpot case / control board box that combines Ryan’s @vicious1’s excellent design, with @Tokoloshe’s great idea of a plexiglas window on the lid, combined with @Jonathjon’s great idea to extend the length by 25mm for room for his add-ons.

A couple of bits of extra work I did is that now it no longer needs a corner ground off as with @Tokoloshe’s original, and I went ahead and made a mirrored version since I will need mine to have the board’s ports facing the X-max side instead of X-min. Also, because the “hanger” on Ryan’s original was a teensy bit too tight to fit on my ¼" plywood strut (which is probably thicker than it‘s supposed to be), I widened the hanger’s reach by 1.5mm.

Also, I have added a choice of bases — one with and one without accommodation for a 40mm cooling fan — in case someone already has one on hand to use, or considers it important enough to get one and add it.

I am astounded with how much smaller this case is than the ones for the BTT SKR.

I’m currently printing mine, but below is a preview from 3D renderings.


Q: Where can we buy the Jackpot CNC controller board?

A: You can buy the Jackpot CNC Control Board (a FluidNC board, which is GRBL compatible) here: Jackpot CNC Controller – V1 Engineering Inc

Q: Which cooling fan did you use for this board?

A: I used a super quiet Noctua brand 40mm cooling fan. Here is an affiliate link to the one I am using:

Q: One of the case base options has a spot for a 40mm cooling fan. Where does that get wired to on the Jackpot board?

A: One of the easiest and best ways is to not connect the fan to the board, but directly to the power supply that feeds the board, since the volts must match anyway. Nevertheless, I connected mine to the board. [UPDATE: Well, I soon afterward decided that rather than turning the fan on by a button press (or gcode), I’d rather have it come on automatically when the unit is powered up, so I re-ran my fan wires, and tied them into the main 12V power lines. Now my fan is “always on.”] The Noctua fan that I used runs on 12 Volts. However, the method I used can work with fans made for either 24V or 12V. — The key is that your fan’s voltage must match the main power supply voltage. (Most people will be using 24V power, so that would mean the fan needs to match the power supply, at 24V.) — I connected my fan straight to a spare “MOSFET” port on the Jackpot board (which, again, will match the power supply, presumably either 12V or 24V), so that every time the LowRider gets switched on, the fan comes on. It doesn’t do temperature monitoring for going on and off. It stays on whenever the LR3 is on. It was simpler for me to do it that way. Please see the port options highlighted on this schematic:

Q: How do I enable / switch on the MOSFETs on the board?

A: Click here for… Details for switching on/off the MOSFETs via either Web-UI buttons or in GCode.


Well done doug, I might be printing this next. Think I’ll print the plexi part in some transparent petg. Wouldn’t be “clear” but should show the nice led action

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I found a small mistake on the base, and corrected it. There had only been one download of this new version at that point. No way to know who that downloader was. Whoever it is, if you have not printed the base yet, consider re-downloading it.

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This plexiglass cover needs a V1E logo laser etched into it, and an rgb led shining through the side of it :wink:

Nice case, looks cool and functionnal! :slight_smile:

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Thanks! That’s at least the second mentioned suggestion of putting LEDs in it! First mention of engraving logo on it! With my CO2 laser, I could actually engrave the logo even after it’s already installed and glued in!

The following options are now available in the Printables download:

Note: As of Nov 16, 2023 — in addition to the earlier remix changes, today I added SVG files for laser engraving the plexiglas window, to add logotypes for “LowRider 3” and “V1 Engineering” and/or “LowRider 3” and “V1E” and “Design8Studio.” — I added options for engraving before installing the window and after installing. The difference is the size of the outline rectangle, which, if you already cut your window, should be used only for placement and alignment before engraving the logotypes. Here are the graphics options now included:

With V1E, LowRider 3, and Design8Studio logotypes.svg:

With V1E, LowRider 3, and Design8Studio logotypes (for engrave after install).svg:

With V1E, LowRider 3 logotypes.svg:

With V1E, LowRider 3 logotypes (for engrave after install).svg:

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I laser engraved the lid, using a 100W CO2 laser, at 300 mm/sec, with 45% power.

When cleaning away the debris, avoid use of astringents, etc (including avoiding alcohol and WD-40 or the like) as it will cause micro-fracture cracks in the edges of your engraving. I made this mistake (alcohol), but then was able to correct it with careful use of a heat gun. Be careful with a heat gun, as you can overheat it and cause bubbles and ripples and ruin the appearance. I did not make the latter mistake this time, but I had made that mistake before on another project. (Open sharing of mistakes will hopefully prevent someone else from making the same ones.)


Looks awesome Doug! Love the show case design and you took it a step further with the engraving!

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Thanks, and also thanks to @Fabien - the engraving was his idea!

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Well, I soon decided that rather than turning the fan on by a button press (or gcode), I’d rather have it come on automatically when the unit is powered up, so I re-ran my fan wires, and tied them into the main 12V power lines. Now my fan is “always on.”

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Worked out great, will put it on the machine as soon as my artritis allows for it.
Added the file for the lid for those who want it.

lid (1.7 KB)

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Wonder if such a lid printed in clear resin would approach the original plexiglass

According to a video that I saw on YouTube about getting good transparency results from filament, the key is to print it solid with no hollow places inside, in other words, don’t use any infill. Even still, it won’t be perfectly transparent. I think I remember the video indicating that printing transparent resin gets a decent result.

Thanks! I just swapped to Doug’s mirrored base, but used another 25mm extended top and mirrored it in the slicer because I didn’t have any acrylic sheet lying around. Now I can swap over to Doug’s cover where the SD slot and USB port actually line up when mirrored.

I have my fan hooked up to the “mist” port (gpio.16 I think) and I’m really tempted to go back and extend the wires to hook it directly into the power supply.

If FluidNC had some of the features that Klipper does where I could either tie the PWM output to a temp sensor or run the machine at a lower current when idle without the fan and then kick up the current and turn on the fan when a program starts it would make sense to keep it on the PWM port. Unfortunately, it can’t so I’m really just tying up a port for nothing.

OK, so I’ve made a new v2.0 of the Jackpot case, and I’m working on making variation(s) within that one, with keystone jack slots. Without moving the cooling fan, I can fit one on the other side, see screen shot, and it seems doable that with moving the cooling fan, I could make a variation with one on the side you requested. In the screen shot, the green-colored one fits, and the red-colored one does not fit.

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I have completed now, the one with the keystone jack slot to the left of the cooling fan.

Is the file accessible somewhere? I’ll kick off test prints this evening if they are available.

Almost. Coming soon to a Printables listing near you.