Sure!
Nice! Love the colors. If you get a chance, please post the pic as a make on Printables!
Well this rewiring and re-boxing of the SKR Pro turned into an entire $!#%-show… all I wanted was more room to install the correct type of wiring (JST-XH) connectors so the slide top on the old case would stop pulling my connections when I went to close the case… I figured this other case style would also allow me to more easily pull the controller off the gantry if I needed to work on it…
- my crimping skills apparently need a lot of work
- the quality of wiring I purchased is just crap, the DuPont housings just disintegrate at the slightest bit of pressure.
- Amazon sent me the wrong crimp package so I can’t redo the DuPont connections.
- the current wires apparently pulled out one of the pins on the gender changer on the side panel, which is terrifying, but probably means the quality of that part is crap too…
- I should have cut the mounts for the new box before I pulled the controller out of the old box.
The correct (hopefully) JST-XH/Dupont crimp kit should be here Wednesday, at which point we will begin anew, probably with brand new wires and connectors cut to exact lengths for the stepper and end stop connections and not have wires flailing everywhere.
In the meantime, I’ll probably cut the box mount on my little bitty CNC.
One question, my X-stepper wire connection has what appears to be a slightly melted housing on the 1 wire. Should I be concerned? Is this a common occurrence?
On the other hand… everything looks like it fits perfectly. I need to work on the hose connection and the 2-1/2 hose looks to be pushing too much so I may have to shorten it. However, with my controller tragedy, can’t test it yet.
Printables make coming up shortly.
Wow, nice!
Okay, the new DuPont/JST-XH kit got here and it’s all re-crimped and re-wired up. These new connectors are WAY better than the prior kit and the original DuPont shells. My giant man hands and those little bitty JST female connectors are SO much fun together…
I’ll see if I can hook it up for testing once the mounts finish printing. I decided to go with the 3D printer instead so I don’t have to paint. It’ll be done tomorrow afternoon sometime.
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Looks awesome!
I just got these btw, absolute game changer for crimping these connectors. Never again will I use a ratcheting style crimper. Little late for you, but maybe in the future!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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+1 on that. I crimped my whole Voron build with it and it did not fail once, even with some „not so great“ connectors.
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Got my case supports finished and mounted and the lid locked down. It’s going to sit on the rear rail of the LR3 like the original controller case and sit parallel to the table surface, but this one will face the outside so I can easily read and work with it from the side instead of the table head.
Still need to mount it and test all the connections this weekend and we’ll see if I need to redo any of the wiring.
I see a lot of M119, M106/M107, G38.2 and directed movement commands in my immediate future…
I also made a few z-axis supports to keep my gantry from bottoming out whenever I turn the machine off for storage. I’m starting with a 65mm height and we’ll see how that works. I guess I could have walked out to the garage and busted out the calipers, but I was feeling lazy…
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I use these created by @SlowRider. They work great.
Z Axis Parking Blocks - LowRider CNC / Hardware Development - V1 Engineering Forum
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I’m printing a set in the morning and will try them both this weekend.
Ok, got everything reassembled and mounted… as soon as everything checks out, the glue gun will make an appearance….
End-stops, check!
M106/M107 IoT relay control, check!
TFT connection, check!
Stepper control, FAIL.
I’ve got zero movement on any axis, checked all my new cables for the steppers and end-stops and the connections are good.
I checked the motor power crossover and it looks good. I checked the voltage across the three fuses and got nothing on any of them. My 3.3, 5 and 12V lights are all on…
From what I gather, a reversed stepper connection should still power up and move, just in the wrong direction, so I don’t think that’s an issue I can test yet…
What else should I be looking for?
Not sure but watching.
No voltage across a fuse when the system is on means the fuse isn’t blown.
I’d start with a close-up picture of your board/motor wiring crossover setup.
The one linked uptread doesn’t allow one to confirm you have +/- correctly installed at the terminal blocks.
Next, use your DMM in voltage mode with the borard power on and report the voltage you measure across the board inlet power + / - and also the voltage you measure across the motor power + / -.
Are you running your TFT in marlin mode or touch mode? What messages do you have on the board?
How are you checking motion, with commanding from the TFT, or via USB or ??
Edit to add- in the picture above, the top + connection has a black wire installed below the red top wire.
That’s at best really bad practice, at worst you have flipped power to the motors.
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Unfortunately that black wire you see under the red one is my power supply connection and it’s black on both sides.
I measured the voltage across the inlet power and the motor power terminals and I’m getting 24.4V on both.
I typically use TFT mode, and I’m getting appropriate responses from the M106/M107, M119, M115, G92 commands. On boot, I’m getting the “No printer attached!” message in TFT but that’s normal. In Markin, it’s saying “V1CNC 515DL Ready” but the X, Y, Z coordinates are flashing back and forth from 0,0,200 to ?, ?, ???.
Are there any any other messages I should be looking for?
In both TFT and Marlin modes, I’ve tried moving using both TFT and Marlin and by using the built-in movement commands as well as direct g-code.
I haven’t gotten to trying via USB yet as my Raspberry Pi doesn’t seem to want to load Repetier-Host, so I’ll have to drag a full sized pc out here for that part shortly.
UPDATE Dragged the wife’s laptop out here and connected and still have no control from either the built-in commands or direct G-Code from Reptier-Host.
Output from M115
> 11:20:27.079 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin 515DL 2.1.1 (Sep 25 2022 17:41:34) SOURCE_CODE_URL:github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:V1CNC 515DL EXTRUDER_COUNT:0 UUID:cede2a2f-41a2-4748-9b12-c55c62f367ff
> 11:20:27.079 : Cap:SERIAL_XON_XOFF:0
> 11:20:27.079 : Cap:BINARY_FILE_TRANSFER:0
> 11:20:27.079 : Cap:EEPROM:1
> 11:20:27.080 : Cap:VOLUMETRIC:0
> 11:20:27.080 : Cap:AUTOREPORT_POS:1
> 11:20:27.080 : Cap:AUTOREPORT_TEMP:0
> 11:20:27.082 : Cap:PROGRESS:0
> 11:20:27.082 : Cap:PRINT_JOB:1
> 11:20:27.082 : Cap:AUTOLEVEL:0
> 11:20:27.082 : Cap:RUNOUT:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:Z_PROBE:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:LEVELING_DATA:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:BUILD_PERCENT:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:SOFTWARE_POWER:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:TOGGLE_LIGHTS:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:CASE_LIGHT_BRIGHTNESS:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:EMERGENCY_PARSER:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:HOST_ACTION_COMMANDS:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:PROMPT_SUPPORT:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:SDCARD:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:MULTI_VOLUME:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:REPEAT:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:SD_WRITE:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:AUTOREPORT_SD_STATUS:1
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:LONG_FILENAME:0
> 11:20:27.083 : Cap:LFN_WRITE:0
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:CUSTOM_FIRMWARE_UPLOAD:0
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:EXTENDED_M20:0
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:THERMAL_PROTECTION:1
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:MOTION_MODES:1
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:ARCS:1
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:BABYSTEPPING:1
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:CHAMBER_TEMPERATURE:0
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:COOLER_TEMPERATURE:0
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:MEATPACK:0
> 11:20:27.084 : Cap:CONFIG_EXPORT:0
> 11:20:27.084 : area:{full:{min:{x:0.0000,y:0.0000,z:0.0000},max:{x:1220.0000,y:2440.0000,z:200.0000}},work:{min:{x:0.0000,y:0.0000,z:0.00
Output from M119:
11:21:33.962 : Reporting endstop status
11:21:33.962 : x_min: open
11:21:33.962 : y_min: open
11:21:33.962 : y2_min: open
11:21:33.962 : z_max: open
11:21:33.962 : z2_max: open
11:21:33.962 : z_probe: open
If you manually command moves from the console, what response do you get back from Marlin?
It doesn’t give me a response.
Ugh… just broke down and ordered a new SKR Pro board… I was debating a Jackpot since everyone seems very excited about them, but don’t want to change too many variables at once. I guess we’ll see if it’s a board issue later this week.
Can anyone tell me what the advantages of the Jackpot are over the SKR Pro board? Also, will it fit in the same enclosure and can it use the same TFT?