[FR] TS-Rider - LR3-LR4 conversion

Fabien · April 5, 2026, 11:13pm

More than “possible", what baffles me is that it’s just plain easy.

Printers have evolved into ready to use tools, and you can just hit print and let it do it’s thing…

Sure there’s been a constant improvement on speed and quality for the past 10 years, but it’s reliability and ease of use refinements that take the cake for the past 1-2 years

I mean, these plates are the perfect example of what 2025 brought us : I generated the design with AI, and then let the printer do the job (including filament change) , used default settings and still obtained a print quality far above anything my old printers could ever produce…

bitingmidge · April 6, 2026, 12:19am

Oh yes, I love it most and that plaque is mounted securely in my workshop (OK it’s leaning against a bottle on top of a cupboard, but it will be mounted securely one day). Sadly though, as I remember it the print quality looked as though it had been thrashed out with a 0.6mm nozzle!

MakerJim · April 6, 2026, 12:45am

I get great results with my core one L and a .6 nozzle…

Jonathjon · April 6, 2026, 12:56am

I get great results with my Qidi’s and .6 nozzles as well!

orob · April 6, 2026, 2:24am

That lower green trim just makes the finish look on this one. I really really like that.

If heat is a concern, space the plates off from the side about 3 mm so it will allow air flow. My pretty peter “plates” are printed as hex infill with no top or bottom layers so they act as a mesh to hide the motors on the visible side of the lowrider and the steppers never get hot but they lack that really polished look that I think is captured with this multicolor set. Really nice!

Tokoloshe · April 6, 2026, 6:20am

Peter’s just not as strapped for time as we are and uses a 0.4mm nozzle. The perks of being in retirement.

Fabien · April 6, 2026, 4:41pm

Perfect!

Fabien · April 6, 2026, 4:44pm

I sorted out the wiring too…

My sleeved cables can in fact go through th small chanel under the YZ plate by feeding them through rather than trying to insert them through the tiny slot

So I did just that, and unsleeved the last part of the endstop wire so that it fits through the slot

Clean wiring…

Pondering on wether I should -do the core too, and use a single sleeved cable forstepper/endstop/touchplate
Also have to wire the laser somehow…

Fabien · April 6, 2026, 7:20pm

Hey, look what I found…. 12 perfectly good bearings…

Jonathjon · April 6, 2026, 7:27pm

Good deal! Looks just like the one I am putting together right now!

Fabien · April 6, 2026, 9:42pm

Need some wiring done but it’s getting along pretty nicely….

Also, should I add a brace? (1 meter rails, planning on moving to 1m20 later)

Note: yeah I know the strut is mounted backward, but there are still other things that need to be re-done so it’ll wait

Jonathjon · April 6, 2026, 10:04pm

I added an extra brace over what the Strut calculator calls for on my personal build. Mostly depends on which control board you are running. The SKR needs more room than the Jackpot does.

Fabien · April 7, 2026, 8:58am

Quick question btw: is there any f3d/step file or technical drawing of the jackpot box and lid?

I’d like to customize mine for an MKS tinybee, but editing the STL is pretty clumsy

vicious1 · April 7, 2026, 4:29pm

There should be step files in the printables page.

Fabien · April 7, 2026, 5:04pm

I checked on the jackpot v1 page but didn’t see any f3d

But now that’ I’m saying this aloud, maybe it’s included on other versions and it doesn’t really matter which one if it’s a blank…

Found it: Jackpot3 Box by V1 Engineering | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Well in the meantime I dug up my “Collector edition” Jackpot v1 and printed the official case

Just me being lazy on re-configuring everything TBH…

Fabien · April 13, 2026, 7:41pm

Progress is quite slow this week…
Crimped some terminals, assembled the beam and began the configuration….

The crimps are terrible, lots of random contacts… I’m not feeling too confident…
I bought another crimp tool, we’ll see….

Cool little side project while I was at it… tape left some sticky residue on the cables on the LR3 build and the label was barely readable… not great…

So I 3d printed some new ones

I’m looking into the laser wiring too.. (as you can tell from the label :p)

Should I just use the upper left “5V out” for PWM signal?

Britt · April 13, 2026, 8:41pm

I used gpio.27 for my PWM signal. gpio.26 energizes the laser at startup for some reason I read somewhere.

Fabien · April 13, 2026, 9:03pm

Noted! Had something similar on the MKS Tinybee, never got time to find a solution

MakerJim · April 13, 2026, 9:35pm

When the ESP32 comes up that pin has another job.
Eventually it becomes available for use as a GPIO.
That’s why we recommend against it for items like lasers.

Fabien · April 14, 2026, 9:08pm

Crimps

New crimp tool received.
I bought the SN-025 as suggested by @jamiek Crimpers: avoid SN-28B, use SN-025!
Thanks @azab2c for the link to the thread and quick responses of all members in chat!

It took a few tries, but I finally managed to get a good crimp on those endstop connectors.
The problem I had was that I crimped the terminal “too far”, and it just crushed the part that goes on the pin…

Then the plug just wouldn’t fit, and the pin would push the terminal back in the casing…

Re-did all of the endstop plugs, used 2x2 housings on the Y1/Z1 and Y2/Z2 plugs, added the custom 3d printed labels and voilà…

Drag chain

I also received the 15x30 dragchain, and printed @Tylas mount

The core mount is perfect, fitting on the braces support was very tight, had to re-print at 99%; but in the end it just looks fantastic, clean, and it works like a charm

I’m a bit unsure what those “ziptie brackets” are supposed to be?

Still have to put the spindle cable through the chain too…

Board config

On the electronic and config side, now that endstops are correctly triggering, homing works, and I have a fully functionnal X and Z axis.

Still have to install it on the table to check Y… I’ll be using Y-max homing to begin with, so I have a little bit of customization to do…

Laser installation

Still a bit unsure about how I need to plug the laser…

I can see GND and GPIO27 on the jackpot board, but my laser also requirez a 12-24V input
Where do I get this ?

Do I need to re-install the adapter board?