[FR] TS-Rider - LR3-LR4 conversion

More than “possible", what baffles me is that it’s just plain easy.

Printers have evolved into ready to use tools, and you can just hit print and let it do it’s thing…

Sure there’s been a constant improvement on speed and quality for the past 10 years, but it’s reliability and ease of use refinements that take the cake for the past 1-2 years

I mean, these plates are the perfect example of what 2025 brought us : I generated the design with AI, and then let the printer do the job (including filament change) , used default settings and still obtained a print quality far above anything my old printers could ever produce…

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Oh yes, I love it most and that plaque is mounted securely in my workshop (OK it’s leaning against a bottle on top of a cupboard, but it will be mounted securely one day). Sadly though, as I remember it the print quality looked as though it had been thrashed out with a 0.6mm nozzle! :grin:

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I get great results with my core one L and a .6 nozzle… :grinning_face:

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I get great results with my Qidi’s and .6 nozzles as well!

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That lower green trim just makes the finish look on this one. I really really like that.

If heat is a concern, space the plates off from the side about 3 mm so it will allow air flow. My pretty peter “plates” are printed as hex infill with no top or bottom layers so they act as a mesh to hide the motors on the visible side of the lowrider and the steppers never get hot but they lack that really polished look that I think is captured with this multicolor set. Really nice!

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Peter’s just not as strapped for time as we are and uses a 0.4mm nozzle. The perks of being in retirement. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes::heart:

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Perfect!

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I sorted out the wiring too…

My sleeved cables can in fact go through th small chanel under the YZ plate by feeding them through rather than trying to insert them through the tiny slot

So I did just that, and unsleeved the last part of the endstop wire so that it fits through the slot

Clean wiring…

Pondering on wether I should -do the core too, and use a single sleeved cable forstepper/endstop/touchplate
Also have to wire the laser somehow…

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Hey, look what I found…. 12 perfectly good bearings… :smiley:

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Good deal! Looks just like the one I am putting together right now!

Need some wiring done but it’s getting along pretty nicely….

Also, should I add a brace? (1 meter rails, planning on moving to 1m20 later)

Note: yeah I know the strut is mounted backward, but there are still other things that need to be re-done so it’ll wait :slight_smile:

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I added an extra brace over what the Strut calculator calls for on my personal build. Mostly depends on which control board you are running. The SKR needs more room than the Jackpot does.

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Quick question btw: is there any f3d/step file or technical drawing of the jackpot box and lid?

I’d like to customize mine for an MKS tinybee, but editing the STL is pretty clumsy :confused:

There should be step files in the printables page.

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I checked on the jackpot v1 page but didn’t see any f3d

But now that’ I’m saying this aloud, maybe it’s included on other versions and it doesn’t really matter which one if it’s a blank…

Found it: Jackpot3 Box by V1 Engineering | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Well in the meantime I dug up my “Collector edition” Jackpot v1 and printed the official case

Just me being lazy on re-configuring everything TBH…

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