One thing I did think about is that the” square” under the motor is only 2 layers thick, perhaps this needs to be more layers.
They turned out pretty good!
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Love the color scheme !
That is tough. extra lube collects extra debris, maybe graphite or something? I haven’t had one get that bad.
I have 9 out of 14 that are stuck or “grippy” >_<
Guess it depends on the quality of the bearing….
Started the build this evening …
No major problems so far, but a few details here and there…
One of the 2 screw sits bove the surface and pushes against the side, causng the endstop support to tilt.
The other screw sits just shy of the surface, just rubbing…
The Xmin rear wheel bolt goesthrough and boyond the surface of the support, causing an interference with the peter plate
Should I print some spacer on the bolt head’s side to accomodate for length?
Or, did I mess up and mix up the xmin/xmax ?
While I love the idea and neat presentation of wiring channels, some of them make it harder to build, and just lesscompatible with other hardware
I reused the wires from my LR3 and I have sleeved cables for the endstops.
Those wires won’t fit through the channel at the bottom of the Y plate, I had to unsleeve the ewire which is a bit cumbersome…
Maybe we can enlarge the channel’s width to acomodate for various hardware?
Overall impressions about the build
The LR3 was an impressive piece of design relative to hardware standardization but still lacked refinement in some build areas
The LR4 improoves on all those details: clever nut traps, clean wiring, the marks for setting the pulley’s depth is just genius too….
And all this while re-using almost all hardware from the LR3
@vicious1 I knew you’d make a fantastic job with this machine as always, but all the little details you only see when you actually build the machine just blew my mind.
Well done sir!
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Make sure you are using the M2.5 screws for this. The only other time I have seen this happen someone used M3 screws.
Your bolt is in backwards. Head should be on the peter plate side and nut on the inside where it wont interfere with the belt/peter plate
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Right on… I forced my way on M3 with this one…
Gotta buy some m2.5 then
Uh.. but the nut trap is on the inside of the plate?
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The head stripped -_-
Mmmmh… I don’t use hex heads, my m8 have a dome head just like the m5’s
I’ll check and see if I can find “regular” m8 bolts, but it kinda feel like an inconsistency… I mean it’s the only “head trap" in the build right?
The way you have them now it will interfere with the belts and not be good. You can see if the head of your bolt will fit in there, it not you’ll have to get something else I’m afraid.
Nah, getting some regular m8 won’t be too hard
I had a feeling it would interfere with the belt too, hence the question here…
Thanks for the quick support 
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No problem. You had questions that were right up my alley. I’ve assembled my fair share of them 
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Man, if someone had sold you a screw kit… 
Just kidding, build looks great! Make sure the steppers don’t overheat. 
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I thought you’d include it as a “special fellow member” bonus and didn’t want to ask 
Jokes aside, I already had almost all the screws from the LR3 and didn’t want to buy a new set.
I feel like I could have used a wiring loom though, and especially in light of the little wiring channel problem I had and mentionned earlier.
Overall, the LR4 feels much more like a “finished product” but I think it lost a bit of flexibility in hardware options.
Not a problem if you’re buying a kit, but for DIY-ers it can be a bit harder to build
Y stepper is mostly uncovered, Z stepper is covered on one side but doesn’t work quite as much I think
I think it’s sorted out… only took a bit of convincing… Square peg in a round hole, you know the drill…
I stand my point though: having to hold the nut doesn’t feel “right” compared to other steps in the build, it feels like an inconsistency, although it’s really just me complaining about details
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There are some in the core that get the bolt through the holder as well. But those are not as “important” for which way they go. The ones that are in the core go the way you want them to
Yep, I have them “reversed” in the core too but it doesn’t matter because the bolt won’t poke through
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The problem is you using round screws… 
If you put a screw with a hexagon head in it won’t twist. It’s like magic.
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There have been so many really nice builds of the LR4 that it’s impossible to pick my favourite - this is certainly one of them!
It’s extraordinary to think that in just a couple of years 3D printing has evolved to the extent that this sort of result is possible!
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But obviously you will always love the Ghostrider most because it’s the first LR4 you were able to touch with your own hands, right?
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