Mine too for sure. But I know this is some rock solid stuff. I didn’t find any issues with the GF but it does not feel as SOLID as the CF does
I have some air filters going, and plan to buy a better hepa one. But I don’t get any funky smells or anything in the room here like I would with ABS/ASA that’s for sure. With all the alements I already have, whats one more. We will start a pool to see which one actually takes me out in the end 
Hey Ryan, I’m about 90% complete on this LR4 build. Which is where I was on my LR3 build when you released the LR4 files.
Maybe you could drop the Lowrider 5 files this weekend?
Just kidding!! I def like this LR4 build better!
HoverBoard CNC V1 due out this weekend …
Sonuva!!
I’ll be using the Jackpot and that’s awesome, thanks for the heads up. I ordered it with GRBL since I never learned Marlin (Klipper rules), and GRBL is more suited to CNC routing/milling from what I’ve found.
If I run into heat deflection issues, looks like PET-CF is the more cost effective upgrade. BTW I do have to complement you on the structure of your documentation/store/forum. I can go from one to another through menu links, and there isn’t much overlap (which is great!). The community support and my use case, without a shelter, are the big reasons I chose this over other projects. The LR4 is my next step, then a Milo Mill v1.4 once I’m settled in a shop. Combining CNC routing/milling with 3D printing really opens up some cool projects I have in mind for my home. Thanks for the easy to digest project!
That’s even better to hear. PETG-CF would be cheaper than PET-CF. Have you posted your build with these details? During my research, I found that many of the build posts didn’t state what filament they were using, and I couldn’t find but a couple that had used PETG-CF or PET-CF. Adding more builds with these details will assist newbs like me before deciding.
Here’s a link to the Primo I built…
For that particular build I used all PLA. I don’t remember if I used PLA+ or PLA Silk or just plain old PLA. The only parts I had problems with was the X and Y end-stop triggers. I replaced them with small hose clamps.
My current LR4 build is where I am using PETG-CF. Here are some pics…
If I ever build another Primo I would use the same PETG-CF that I’m using on this project.
I like the PETG-CF blue, what brand is it? Have you noticed anything in particular with the difference in stiffness, since you’ve used both?
Researching for this and the LR4 I compared the bending modulus of a bunch of different filaments, and see why PLA is the recommended filament. PET-CF seems like the best upgrade for my use case, but I do want to see how PLA performs first.
It’s just an economy filament from Amazon.
BTW I always use homemade “ABS Juice” for bed adhesion. The current batch I have I made with white ABS. So it leaves a white haze on the part of the model that touches the bed. It’s not from the filament.
The blue PETG-CF seems stiffer than PLA. I didn’t do any stress/load testing on it, but pulling and pressing on it by hand it seems sturdier and more rigid than PLA.
Also BTW, all of the 3d printing experts say “you must use a hardened nozzle to print carbon fiber and glass fiber filaments so that it doesn’t bore out your brass nozzles”. I understand their reasoning, but it seems to me that warning is a little overstated. I’ve been printing fiber filaments through the same brass nozzles for about the last 2 years (on and off) and haven’t seen any reduction in print quality. I have a cache of hardened nozzles but I never put one on any of my printers. I’m one of those people that has to see the proof of statement, you know like one of those kids that has to touch the hot stove…
I never heard of the Milo Mill before your post. I looked it up and that’s a really cool machine! However, just bear in mind once your Primo is finished you’ll be able to cut aluminum. There are some forum members that are wizards at it. A few that come to mind are @Jonathjon, @Michael_Melancon, @Tokoloshe (Trochoidal!!!)
With my Primo I was able to easily cut my aluminum parts for my LR4. After I installed an air system. A dust collector won’t work as it doesn’t clear the aluminum chips well enough and then you start breaking endmills. I copied @Jonathjon’s system and it worked beautifully!
Can’t wait to see pic’s of your build process!
You know it, brother! 
Thank you so much for all of the info! I haven’t worked with PETG-CF yet, so your reply is helpful to me and hopefully some others.
The Milo is more suited for aluminum and even a little steel. Maybe I’ll find myself not even needing to build it, but that’s a long way off from now. I’m honestly trying to gain some experience before the VA decides to get back to me about school/work for machining. I’m hoping that I can skip a bit of the “button pusher” role, and get into a place that I can grow.
These machines may not be a Bridgeport, but making chips is making chips ya know?
The few tests we had said PET-CF without the G. 
No Problem!
The company my Dad works for just took 2 Bridgeports to the scrap yard! He told me and I was ready to cry. He said I could’ve had them for free but he didn’t know I’d be interested. It’s okay though, both my sons are working as machinists and we’re noodling around with the idea of buying a used 4-axis machine. We found a Doosan that needs some TLC.
Yeah Philipp, I was wondering about that too. I looked it up and the G is glycol. From what I read it’s easier to print PETG but PET has harder faces and corners. I’m just regurgitating, I never tested them against each other.
I have brass nozzles that were ruined by putting fiber through them. Also a bunch of extruder hobbed gears. You must be more on the off side than the on side of printing with abrasive materials.
That’s very disappointing. Free Bridgeport?
That’s awesome your kids are machinists. It’ll be a long time before I’ll earn that title and the honor of standing on the shoulders of giants.
Hopefully I’ll be able to afford to put in a phase converter and a big used 3-4 axis machine.
I haven’t used brass on any of my printers. The thermal conductivity isn’t much better than hardened steel. I personally like the ZS nozzles from Triangle Labs. But everyone has their preferences right?
You’re using hardened nozzles… The above was a reply to @dkeller .
Everyone does have preferences. I found that the hardened steel nozzles did have notably worse thermal conductivity in my machines. As in repeatable tests flowing my materials through my extruders.
Right.
I’ve run about 12-15 spools of carbon fiber predominantly through 2 of my printers, both running Sprite extruders and 0.6 brass nozzles and I haven’t seen any drop in quality yet, but that’s only about 6-7 spools per machine. If I start seeing problems I’ll put in a hardened steel nozzle, or maybe not. Depends on how long the brass lasts. Brass nozzles are cheap to replace.
I’d be interested in knowing anyone else’s opinion on the Creality Sprite extruder. I have been having great luck with them. I put one on my first 3d printer, an Ender 3 Pro, and I find that it’s still a little workhorse even after 7 years. I also made the mistake of buying a Sovol SV05 (Ender 5 knockoff). After updating it with a Sprite extruder it works great!
I only ask because I haven’t seen anyone else discuss this extruder…
