Yes. It’s a smaller heat bed. I’ll remeasure the resistance to verify. The ohms I mentioned were pulled from the web.
I got the MP3DPv4 printing again, so I can start designing mounts.
Snagged a picture of the original extruder for a comparison.
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I do have the original 12v powersupply for the old controller, but 2 full size ps seem excessive.
Huge reduction in mass, significant improvement in performance. What’s not to like about that?
I have a similar quandry. I have a large format printer (Colido x3045) that ran on a big beefy 12V power supply. It’s proprietary controller died and I’ve intended to rebuild it with a different controller- but running 24V electronics with a remaining large 12V heated bed just doesn’t seem right somehow.
It’s likely going to get given away if anyone from the local makerspace wants it, and I’ll finish building my repeat as a V5.
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some of the newer electronics with do between 12 and 24 or is it a speed limiting issue?
On that system, it has a ~350W 12V heated bed, so the rest of the 12V electronics are just a small additional load.
I would prefer to run the whole system at 24V, but as soon as I replace the heated bed it goes from a small project to a big project. I’m not sure I want that system to be a big project.
The big 12V power supply and the existing electronics take up a majority of the space at the bottom of the printer in an enclosed bottom area. Adding a 2nd power supply probably means bolting it to the back, and again at that point it becomes a bigger project.
It’s something of a sunk costs fallacy, as I spent a LOT of money to buy it when it was new, but the same dollars today buy much much more printer- and further I had it at the local makerspace when someone broke it, making it a double bummer.
But many times it’s better to just move on and not try to recoup sunk costs.
Why don’t you get an SSR and get a 120v bed heater. you don’t need another power supply for that and the SSR is pretty small. This would also easily work with your Manta board.
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I’m cheap. I’m trying to NOT completely replace everything on this printer. The current bed is perfectly adequate for the size of the printer. Plus, I already had the buck converter from a previous project.
So far, all I’ve had to buy is the 24v power supply.
The entire re-build of the old printer is just to play with Klipper and a Manta board without taking down my much larger MP3DPv4. Once I get comfortable with the new software, I’ll probably end up swapping the Manta over to the larger printer. At that point I’ll pull the SKR off of the MP3DPv4 and put it on the smaller printer. I may put the klipper firmware onto the SKR and run klipper on the Pi4 that’s currently on the MP3DPv4. We’ll see how my experimenting goes.
This is the old bed slinger I’m playing with. It started off as a Geeetech Aluminum i3 clone. I highly modified it through the years. The controller I’m pulling off of it is an old RADDS that was very painful to setup running the Repitier firmware. The firmware hasn’t been updated in 7-8 years. It’s one of those “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it” kind of things.
I got the power supply mount designed this evening. The parts should all be able to be printed flat. There’s only 3 discreet parts as each mount ‘side’ is the same, just spun. That’s a 8mm 24v fan sitting on top to keep the buck converter cool. Although, I don’t think it will really be necessary, and it’s definitely overkill. But, it’s what I already had in the drawer.
It’s really nice being able to pull CAD drawings of most components off of the web. Meanwell provides step files of all their products.
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This is how LDO Voron beds are powered. I think it’s even better than running it through the board.
My MP3DPv4 is using a ssr controlling an AC bed.
Mine as well. And once good ole aliexpress delivers my E5+ will be running one as well
hangs head… mine is running 24V bed through the octopus. I have a couple SSR’s but after reading about how if you heat the bed to fast, it warps and then you have to wait for it to soak at temperature anyway for about the same time it takes a 24 v bed to heat, i decided to buy the cheaper one. I’m sure there is a right answer, but 24V is already wired without any extra parts on the board. If it blows, there are options still such as the SSR and 120V bed.
But lets be honest: if you really wanted to heat, you’d get a 240V bed. I mean who uses a 120V water heater or oven or stove?
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My AC bed is attached to 1/4" thick aluminum. It acts as a great heatsink and helps slow down the process.
You could always use PID control on the bed and slow down the heat process too.
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Hey as long as it works thats what matters right???
I designed a small parts cooling fan bracket. It’s printing now. I’m not really happy with it, but it’s better than nothing.
Other than that, I’m now in the ‘sit and wait’ category waiting for the new BTT stuff to arrive from China. Of course, their tracking numbers never work, so it could be here today or next month.
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Well… That sucked. My design isn’t the best from a printability point of view. I tried printing it along a long axis with a raft. It got to a part of the print with a slightly weird overhang and the filament gummed up on the print. I watched it because it looked like it was going to work itself out. Then, with about 30 minutes left on the print, the raft lifted and the print scooted across the build plate 
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If it doesn’t work out mine should, I can upload it shortly if you want it.
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No rush. Still waiting for the new controller board to come in and I still have lots of wiring to do. I’m already thinking of changes to make for a v4 
I’m just glad I finally have something working. I’ve tried to make fan mounts before and keep having issues. Eventually I’d just give up.
I’m going to put a sticker on the fan so you can see when it’s spinning