Are you waiting for the kit? I’m trying to sell my mk3 to my father in law, to justify getting the kit myself. He asks me in return: “why do you need the mk4?” and “why should I get the mk3?” 
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I am definitely waiting for the kit and then some, there will be kinks they have to iron out, as with every printer, that the first users will find.
Tell him he needs the MK3 to learn, as a cheaper option. You need the MK4 just because. 
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Okay I finally put that Beam together. I did the full assembly guessing what I thought was even tension on all the pipe clamps, roughly. I then measured the distance between the rails at each clamp. No lie, I was within 0.05mm on each one, except the very end one, I think that was the first one. My guess is I actually forgot to snug that one. I snugged it like the rest, measured and it fell right in line.
I am honestly extremely surprised. 0.05mm is pretty nuts. To me that says the EMT is good, and that the clamps actually work as expected and will only move the rails if they are all the way loose, or way too tight and that can be seen as the sides of the clamp plastic touching.
So I think this issue with the beam is closed and we can chalk it up to a funky printer?
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Yes, definitely. The printer is to blame, the core was the main culprit. 
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Me too… Currently the lead time on the assembled machine is 6-7 weeks, so if the kit lead time can stay down to that I think I’ll be ordering in September so it will be at home mid October ready for my return!
The really nasty comments seem to have died away now that real world users are reporting in very positively!
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A bit off-topic but could you print the silhouette/outline with a normal printer and see if the parts are skewed and/or warped?’
For example, I 3d print a part and then place it on the paper and see if the outline is correct?
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@vicious1 I think that is a pretty good idea that @waimea has got there. If you just had an outline of the first layer to print on paper (with a ruler so you know that your printer printed it correctly), you could really just print the first layer of the core and see whether it fits.
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That would probably work for the braces but printing a large square and measuring the diagonals with anything is going to be best.
The core is another beast, the also depends on XZ and YZ, those need cube or rectangular prints to measure. If I have not put my test parts on printables I will.
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I think your test parts are good but they take a long time to print?
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Printing a couple test parts is better than printing several sets of CNC parts, and doing some rebuilds.
XY test parts take a couple minutes. XZ YZ take a lot longer but are just as important.
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I don´t know if we are talking about the same test parts, the file xzyz.stl takes 1d 5h 30s on my ender 3 max?
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I just convinced my wife that I can take some of our money for it as well (we each have 200 Euro a month we can spend, no questions asked), so I am able to get it earlier. Pre-order for the kit starts in the next two weeks, the website says.
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The in-laws stayed over till today. Tried to hear him out if he was interested in buying my MK3. He seemed quite lukewarm… perhaps it was because my mother-in-law also was present. I’m not sure if it’s a good option. Looking at the local craiglist (finn.no), there’s a swarm of second hand MK3s right now!
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What speed are you using? It’s like a 3 hour print on my printer.
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Well I’m sure in your climate lukewarm is the equivalent to boiling hot in ours! 
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I am halfway through reassembling the LowRider again, am back at the house and remember that I forgot to attach the core to the beam… 
Gotta take it off again. 
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@vicious1 New core, new braces, same problem. I don’t know what else to do…
@azab2c Did you use my DOC and speed when you cut it?
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Spindle spinning the right way? Cutter sharp, single flute? Low RPM?
If it was not the core or beam I would take a hard look at your Y drives for cracks or loose pulleys.
Slap a pen on it and see how it does with Zero load.
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Thanks for the ideas I am using a diamond bit, but tried different ones. Will try a single flute tomorrow.
Would lose pulleys result in 100% identical mistakes over nearly twenty times? But yes, will check that.
Should I be able to twist the gantry by hand? I can twist it slightly back and forth and I think the router moved it back and forth as well while cutting.
The core is lots better now though. 
So it was not worthless what I did. 
