Makita RT0700C, the one that everyone has. 
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I can find the RT0700C here but there is also RT0702C.
Will that one work as well?
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It seems to be a newer version with an LED indicator and a protection against turning on again after the plug having been pulled when still in the “ON” setting. At least that’s what google says.
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Testing some acryllic cuts myself now.
Hopefully I’ll be able to make my YZ plates out of 12mm pieces.
Do you mind sharing your trochoidal settings?
I tried a single flute upcut, almost lowest speed on router, 12mm/s feed rate, 2mm Depth of Cut, 60 deg plunge angle, 2mm/s plunge rate.
My first cut (not trochoidal) lasted about a second 
:
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I used a single flute upcut bit with nearly the lowest speed on the router, 1500mm/min (so 25mm/sec), 4.2mm DOC, straight plunge (when doing trochoidal it goes down in circles anyway), 450mm/min plunge (7.5mm/sec) and 20% trochoidal stepover.
It’s really important to go quite fast to have big chips or it will melt. Christian, the guy who made Estlcam says you should go as fast as you can without your router losing its way (because of the forces when going in circles) and also advises to cut the full depth. In your case I’d go 6.2mm DOC, same settings for the rest that I used. Using a 6mm endmill, I cut aluminium at nearly the same speed with less stepover and 10mm DOC (with a bit of flex, to be honest, but it did work well).
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Thanks!
I’m going to try your settings.
Just did a crazy test here with some very poor choices:
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Did you do a finishing pass?
That did not seem like it was trochoidal so may not be a good idea
Nah, I never do finishing passes. I have never had the need, I use those diamond endmills for plywood that leave a great finish, for hardwood I have also never felt the need to do that. Look at how good my pencil cases look. 
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It depends on the final accuracy you need. Professionals using machines far more rigid than we have use finishing passes for machine work, when they are looking for 3 decimal place accuracy. For most woodworking, we can probably get away without, depending on how much we are pushing the machine. Going slow to start, we may not need it, but if you are pushing the machine, you probably are getting some deflection of the tool, in which case a finish pass will leave a more accurate dimension.
I don’t use finishing passes for things like screw holes, but usually do for things where edge finish and accuracy are desired.
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I re-read some (not all) of your build thread and I was wondering about your workflow.
Perhaps you could post more videos? And do you use the laptop and the laptop wallstand often?
You can check my Youtube channel: HaWiWe.de. You will find a few videos with the workflow. 
Since I use Estlcam as PP as well, I need it all the time.
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and now, today is going to be a great day!
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Also: vacuum table coming along nicely. Took 24 minutes with 3000mm/min and 6mm DOC (which made the side lift off the rail a bit. Whoops…).
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That is a bit fast, guessing that caused it. I did a 8mm Deep 12mm wide cut in walnut that was wild, I don’t think mine lifted. Do you happen to be using a downcut bit? Was it a fast plunge or while slotting?
I don’t think I have heard of a lift yet, Kinda want to make sure that is not a common issue.
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It was an upcut bit, but beech plywood and very low, lower than you’d normally go. I also adjusted my rail afterwards, one bearing had been lifted when it was square even though I had measured carefully before. I also think my plywood YZ plate might be a bit bend.
I tried to take a video, but the movement is hard to see. It pushes the bearing outside by a mm or 1.5mm, but only at the front, the back is fine. Happened while slotting. Interestingly the depth of the cuts was not altered by it, they are all 6.2mm deep. Pretty neat. 
Will try with less speed in the next days after having finished the table.
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Okay that makes sense. Sounds like you have a bit of a twist in your build, Heffe had that at first as well. You can usually just twist it out the opposite way.
No big deal.
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What I find interesting is that the stop blocks are both exactly 29mm from the edge of the table, but then the one bearing lifts. As soon as I push it by hand, the bearings both touch the rail but the sides are then off by 4mm. That should not really happen I guess. 
Okay, it’s kind of fine now, it really is the YZ plate where the plywood is not completely straight. Meh. The front roller on the rail is now pushed out by 0.5mm or so, back roller is fine. So it’s definitely not the LowRider’s fault but my plate’s. I am going to monitor it. If it affects the cuts, I will swap it.
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You should be able to twist it out. Like, if you push on the front or back on the rail side, if the bearing taps, you should be able to man handle the thing and twist it out. The beam itself can get a little twist in it, but you can twist it out. Worse case you can loosen the strut plates a bit and give it a twist and tighten it back up.
I doubt you would need to replace any parts.
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