Looks great! Where did you get that cable chain?
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It’s printed. AR cable chain on thingiverse. Will post a link later.
Sorry, took a while. There is a bigger version as well but it has linearity problems. The linked, 20mm version, works very well.
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Nice work!
Things I learned about acrylic: If you use trochoidal, make sure that you have a very good dust collection. There will be big shavings of it and they do not compromise. After the job, my core made hobbling sounds because of acrylic shavings sticking to the bearings, cleaning it was really nasty. Also, on the Y where the bearings roll over the wood, you can clearly see markings the acrylic made in the wood when the bearings rolled over it, picking it up on the way, never letting go because of static I guess. Next time I will definitely be cutting in the middle of the workspace as well as having the dust collection with the bristles up and I will be having some kind of barrier against the shavings to stay away from my Y bearings. Ugh.
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I think you’ll know where to look if you start missing wrenches (spanners for our folks across the pond)!
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I like the table, the color scheme and the controlbox.
What was your biggest hurdle on this build?
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Time… 
Too many kids.
And my stupidity when trying to install the X-belt… 
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What Makita router is that? And are you satisfied with it?
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Makita RT0700C, the one that everyone has. 
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I can find the RT0700C here but there is also RT0702C.
Will that one work as well?
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It seems to be a newer version with an LED indicator and a protection against turning on again after the plug having been pulled when still in the “ON” setting. At least that’s what google says.
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Testing some acryllic cuts myself now.
Hopefully I’ll be able to make my YZ plates out of 12mm pieces.
Do you mind sharing your trochoidal settings?
I tried a single flute upcut, almost lowest speed on router, 12mm/s feed rate, 2mm Depth of Cut, 60 deg plunge angle, 2mm/s plunge rate.
My first cut (not trochoidal) lasted about a second 
:
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I used a single flute upcut bit with nearly the lowest speed on the router, 1500mm/min (so 25mm/sec), 4.2mm DOC, straight plunge (when doing trochoidal it goes down in circles anyway), 450mm/min plunge (7.5mm/sec) and 20% trochoidal stepover.
It’s really important to go quite fast to have big chips or it will melt. Christian, the guy who made Estlcam says you should go as fast as you can without your router losing its way (because of the forces when going in circles) and also advises to cut the full depth. In your case I’d go 6.2mm DOC, same settings for the rest that I used. Using a 6mm endmill, I cut aluminium at nearly the same speed with less stepover and 10mm DOC (with a bit of flex, to be honest, but it did work well).
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Thanks!
I’m going to try your settings.
Just did a crazy test here with some very poor choices:
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Did you do a finishing pass?
That did not seem like it was trochoidal so may not be a good idea
Nah, I never do finishing passes. I have never had the need, I use those diamond endmills for plywood that leave a great finish, for hardwood I have also never felt the need to do that. Look at how good my pencil cases look.
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