I was wondering if anyone had a guide or something of what to buy first and stuff?
I haven’t seen one. I recall spending quite some time checking out the assembly videos and the parts lists and going back and forth to Ryan’s store trying to comprehend all the different parts and the options.
I do know that the first thing you need to decide on is the conduit or tubing you are going to use. That is the part you definitely have to source yourself. From there you decide which 3D printed parts you are going to order from Ryan or make yourself by downloading the correct sizing according to the outside diameter of your pipe.
I printed out a piece and took it to the hardware store and matched it to the 3/4" EMT conduit that was available and cheap.
Then I proceeded to come home and print the whole parts batch for the 1" stainless. I had downloaded both part batches from Thingiverse and when I went to load up the parts into the Slic3R, I loaded from the wrong unzipped file directory. I didn’t quite understand the C F and J being the crucial determinators in the name for the various sizes. I just saw “burly” and stuck with it. So then I had to reprint all the parts for my conduit. At least I am not the only one who has had this experience.
After getting this crucial and first step taken care of, then there is the matter of hardware. Buy parts from Ryan or source yourself? I sourced them all myself. Took me trips to four different hardware stores. Would have been easier buying from Ryan. I ordered the leadscrew, electronics and steppers from Ryan (can’t beat that they are all set up ready to go.) sourced my own wiring and bearings.
The control board decision can be a challenge if you aren’t familiar with these micro-control boards. Hard to wade through the different levels. I chose the Archim 2 because it was 32bit and seemed least problematic for the dual endstops and because it had the upgraded quiet drivers. More of an expense. the basic control board can get the job done very inexpensively. Sourcing your own or buying from Ryan will depend on your level of comfort with flashing microcontrollers.
If I think of anything else, I’ll add to this.
3 Likes
How long did it take you to print one set of pieces?
This question here is why I just ordered the parts and all hardware. The amount of time sitting and watching a printer print all these pieces and make sure that they are perfectly printed and then the time spent running around getting the rest of the parts just was totally worth the price that it’s charged here.
3 Likes
I wasn’t far off from what Ryan estimates in the parts list. I had a Prusa MK2 and a CR10s both pumping parts out so around a week of time. My printers are pretty reliable so I could set up some 8 hour and longer prints with a couple parts on them. I do have cameras on them both so I can remote in and monitor how things are. I wouldn’t leave my laser or my cnc unattended like this, but so far so good for the 3D printers.
I have since done some tweaking on both printers and they are printing even better than before. I just don’t want to bother taking down breaking down what ain’t broke, so I’ll leave them be for a while.
2 Likes
I think I may just order the parts, I have an ender 3 I’ve had for a few years, but I haven’t really worked on fine-tuning it yet. I do have a flsun delta kossel, but i dont trust it with overnight prints yet.
I flashed my CR10s with a new version of Marlin and did all the firmware tweaks myself rather than using the original firmware. I wanted to eliminate the useless filament sensor and get thermal runaway taken care of so Octoprint would stop yelling at me. I replaced the bowden tubes and connectors and upgraded the extruder gearing and tension mechanism. It works way better than ever except that I can’t get rid of the zits, no matter what, on the surface. I tried every different setting that I can imagine and read till I’m blue in the face, but something is eluding me about this. I am sure it is just one setting that I haven’t gotter correct either in the slicer or the firmware.
It’s a headache to get them tweaked and not always possible, but when they work exactly as you want them, it’s always exciting to get the new print.
Have you tried a different usb cable or printing from the sd card? I had this problem a while ago on my wanhao and it was the serial not keeping up with the print, so it would ever so slightly pause. In octoprint, you can enable sd support and upload and print from the sd card. Uploading takes a long time though.
1 Like
I’ll try that out. I think it is something with retraction, but I can’t seem to find a setting that makes a difference. Still analyzing it. I might start a topic in Advice and post a few pics to get some more ideas. I worked on it with a few Glowforge owners in that forum who do 3D printing for a living. They couldn’t single out anything here.
Started after I flashed my own Marlin CR10s firmware and upgraded my bowden and extruder. The prints are solid and dimensionally fine. Just odd surface stuff. Bugs me because I know what this printer is capable of. My first waving cats were just gorgeous with some pearlescent PLA.
Does this happen with all filament? Just curious if it could be “damp” filament. That’s much more prominent in petg, but I’ve seen it in pla as well
You could also try printing outer perimeters first.
I just have used PLA. I have PETG, but haven’t gotten the drying routine and storage worked out yet.
I generally do perimeters first.
If you all wouldn’t mind to watch for a new topic later on this evening and maybe chime in with suggestions.
And back to the buying guide. That would be a handy article to write up, especially with flow charts.