Best 3D printer I ever *bought* is also best deal + Klipper thoughts (Flashforge AD5M)

I did not see that!!! Thank you so much!

I just wanna say, this thread was the deciding factor of going with the AD5M over another brand. I could not be happier with that decision, its been such a good workhorse. I’ve done the klipper mod and DIY enclosure and its been great. I have access to a Bambu X1C at my local makerspace and the parts that come out of the AD5M are nearly identical in quality. 100% can recommend.

On another note, I have started using it to print parts for my eventual Voron 2.4 build, but thats a bit aways before I wanna drop the money on a Voron kit. My itch to tinker isn’t fulfilled by the AD5M because its so good.

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I’ve bought a kit to make a Voron 2.4, but I cannot seem to get enough time+motivation to get much progress on it.

I’m using my AD5M to print parts for the beta - pre-release work on the LR4. It makes nice parts!

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I just ordered it. It’s on sale right now on Amazon for $279 with Prime.

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Wow, this is so wildly better than my Ender 3. Going to leave it stock for now. I did get a kit for the enclosure I’ll add at some point.

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I have to say, with that price and my lagging MP3DP V5 build… I have a freshly delivered A5M shipping box sitting next to a spot that currently has an older FlashForge Creator pro.

That older FlashForge is probably getting handed down or donated.

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You bought one over the v5 finish? I was seriously on the verge a couple weeks back with all the spaghetti and lost steps…

I’ll still finish the V5. It will take the place of my TAZ.

In fact, this is now the focus of my LR4 beta completion activities- get the rest of the toolchain mastered so I can cut some HDPE for my MP3DP V5 side panels.

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Well, I’ve had it stop mid print twice now on 2 different models. It just stops moving and the touchscreen becomes unresponsive. The first time, I turned it off and back on, then was able to recover and finish the print. The second time (with the Cali-lantern because I was curious), after restarting and starting print recovery, the same thing happened again after 10 minutes.

I have a support ticket open with FlashForge. I am using OrcaSlicer 2.1.1 with the default Flashforge PLA profile. They say that’s third party software and want me to try their Orca-Flashforge or FlashPrint.

Looking on Reddit, some are suggesting to disable “Arc Fitting” in OrcaSlicer.
PSA: disable arc fitting in orcaslicer on AD5M : r/FlashForge

Interestingly, that’s still enabled in Orca-FlashForge but I’m trying it now.

image

Anyone have a similar experience?

I think I’m going to do the Klipper conversion that Doug mentions above.

Out of the box, I connected my new A 5M to my IOT WiFi network and let it update its’ firmware, but am unable to get connectivity. The factory FlashForge MacOS Orca version won’t connect to the printer, nor the Linux version of OrcaSlicer 2.2.0-RC.

I haven’t and am not going to, try the Windows versions.

I may try a print from USB later but at the moment it is just another distraction so may not get much use.

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On OrcaSlicer 2.1.1 on Windows, I have no problems sending files to the printer. I just told it a host type of FlashForge, put in the printer IP address and it worked. It is odd that there is a Device tab that won’t load but otherwise that part works.

I’m probably going to do the Klipper conversion at some point but want to stay stock for now.

Hmm, the device tab being inoperative is what stopped me.
Maybe I’ll try sending a job later this evening.

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I could be wrong so take this with a grain of salt…

But I believe the device tab is inoperable because the flash forge doesn’t come with mainsail/fluid installed. So there is no webui for it to load on the device tab. Once you do the full Klipper conversion then you can install mainsail or fluid and you will then have the device tab working. Or be able to load the webui in a browser. That would also give you a lot more info on what the error is. I know I have arc fitting disabled on my Klipper printers. I was fighting a timer too close issue on my V5 and that was suggested by one of the Klipper admins on discord.

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I am assuming you are using their stock factory GUI on the touch screen. Is that right? Are you also using their software for remote transfer or are you carrying a USB stick to the printer?

When I first booted mine straight out of the box, during the test print, I had it lock up, and notified support. But I got around that never looked back. I did not remember any more lockups with stock GUI, but I also eventually switched to the Klipper mod, and at the time there was no factory support for Wifi transfer so I got that with the Klipper mod, and they later added support for it. But I read above where @MakerJim is having that newer stock feature not work.

After I switched to the Klipper mod, I initially used the Klipperscreen GUI on the touch screen. But it presses the limits of the resources and I have had it lock up several times. So, I switched to the more streamlined Guppyscreen GUI, and since then I have not had any lockups. Working great, and I like having all the Klipper functionality.

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Just saw this. catching up.

The device tab is basically a browser tab that can show a Klipper HTML UI served from the touchscreen. On stock I guess nothing is served. This works with Klipper mod. One port number (7125) is for transfer and another port number is for UI. (4000 is for Mainsail, and I think 4001 is for Fluidd).

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One can connect for file transfers (port 7125) (shown in upper row of screen shots) without bothering with the device interface row, which I think, on stock, is the only way to get remote transfers short of not using OrcaSlicer and instead using Flashprint reskinned Orca. In actual OrcaSlicer, ignore the device tab settings unless using the Klipper mod. Same screen shots I shared a moment ago, again below.

Note: once the remote transfer URL and port are set and working, you can choose between “print” or “export” — print will send to printer remotely, and export will output a GCode file on local hard drive or local USB stick.

After selecting between print and export, it alters what the main button says. Then just tap the main button while it says Print, and you get this modal popup dialogue:

Just now seeing this. @Jonathjon is absolutely correct here. He beat me to it. At least my replies had screen shots. LOL

When you first switch to the device tab, and with the Klipper mod installed, and the URL and port number setup, for example:

Mainsail: http://192.168.1.14:4000/ (where the IP address is changed to match your setup)

Fluidd: http://192.168.1.14:4001/ (where the IP address is changed to match your setup)

Then you see the very same thing as would be shown in a browser.

At first you see a connection response:

…And then the chosen UI:

OrcaSlicer 2.1.1, Windoze 11 (bleah), Flashforge profile, updated stock firmware. No problems on my A5DM. Many models, many filaments (though I never got a successful TPU print.)

I’ve had nozzle jams, but no printer crashes. I didn’t change printer settings, speeds left at the defaults, but I’ve changed perimeters, infill % infill patterns. I dont see anything about arcs, so that will be whatever is default.

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It’s enabled by default.

I was able to successfully print the calilantern after re-slicing with that disabled. I’m curious to go back and try to print it again and see if it crashes again.

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I went back and re-ran the same file that stopped the first time. Same exact thing happened in the same exact spot. I happened to check on it around the layer it failed the first time and managed to catch it on video.

Coming from an Ender 3, I’m still bewildered at the speed and quality (when it doesn’t stop in the middle).

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