Best 3D printer I ever *bought* is also best deal + Klipper thoughts (Flashforge AD5M)

My second AD5M, with Klipper mod applied, and DIY enclosure done up nice.

3 Likes

Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) Side Cutter Mount

This short explainer video is less than 1 minute long:

Printables link:
https://www.printables.com/model/834011-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-side-cutter-mount-v1

Side Cutter Mount adapted for use on the Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) with the DIY printed enclosure.

One model suits the front right or left, while another model suits the back right or left.

Choose front or rear (side mount on either), and then…

Print as oriented. No supports needed.

Remove the existing M4 screw holding the top of the printed guard. Replace it with a longer M4 screw so you can mount the holder. Suggest M4 x 10mm, but you may be able to use 8mm or 12mm.

Flashforge Adventurer 5M (AD5M) IMPROVED Spool Holder, Inlet, Runout Sensor Mount + SIDE MOUNT Spool Holder

Note regarding the new side-mounted spool holder:

  • April 6, 2024, PM - added new version of the side-mounted spool holder model with a built-in retainer clip on top to position the PTFE inlet tube toward front of printer for ease of reach when loading filament. Install your filament spools with the feed direction at the top pointed toward front of printer. Images below show the initial installation of the PTFE tube in the retainer clip.

So many improvements made here… Besides getting a nice option for a side-mounted spool holder, as opposed to the rear mounted one, here’s a list of changes / improvements to the original, and all things related to it:

Improvements made to original spool holder model that also provides mount for filament runout detection sensor:

  1. Adjusted orientation angle of the filament runout sensor to make loading filament easier. The original design required a bend to the PTFE inlet tube that caused a kink/crook at the point where where the tube gets attached to the sensor. While the sensor was mounted “normal” to the hole for the PTFE inlet tube, it’s offset from that hole to the right. This fix addresses that. I’m getting easier filament loading than before.
  2. Made the PTFE tube insert holes (for the spool to glide on PTFE tubes) to be round holes at correct size, instead of pentagonal holes that were too small for normal PTFE tubes. It was practically impossible to force the PTFE tubes in, without either using a heat gun to distort the printed part, which made it look bad, or by using a drill to widen the holes, which destroyed the retainer lips on the top edges of the slots. Presumably the holes were designed as pentagonal to reduce need of supports, but the long “knife edge” overhang requires supports any way, so why not make the holes properly sized?
  3. Widened the relief pocket and access hole for the wiring that connects to the filament runout sensor. I also bevelled several faces related to this relief pocket to reduce need of printed supports.
  4. Made some existing filets to be broader to get the whole spool holder part to fit easier on the AD5M print bed. This also slightly shortened the PTFE tube slots (for the spool to slide on) to exactly 82 mm. A key benefit of this design aspect was this goal it accomplished: Since the model print needs supports, and tree supports would be desirable and better for it, yet the larger original model was so near to the edges of the print bed that OrcaSlicer insisted on creating tree support bases located outside the print bed, and the job would not print (AD5M with Klipper mod would simply say “move out of range” and stop), by rotating my slightly smaller remix clockwise a bit, OrcaSlicer’s tree supports now fit on the print bed easily, including with a skirt set to print.
  5. Widened the gap through which the hotend control cable must pass, as it was tighter than necessary.
  6. Created a second remix in which the sensor mount/cable chain mount are separate from the spool holder, and the separated spool holder is made to be a “SIDE MOUNT” instead of a “REAR MOUNT.” This makes it easier to reach and load filament even if your printer is positioned such that you cannot rotate it (or you simply don’t want to rotate it).

Printing tips:

  • Print as oriented.
  • Tree supports are good for either of the spool holders.
  • Selective support blocking can save some print time on the spool holders.
  • I also like to do tree supports on the “Drag Chain Mount UPPER” for the transition from big hole to little hole.
  • The new “Filament Sensor Mount + Drag Chain Mount LOWER” prints without need of supports.

Installation tips:

  • When installing the new side mounted spool holder, with the DIY printed enclosure:
    • Remove the screw from the printed guard (rear, right).
    • Position the new side mounted spool holder on the upper side of the guard.
    • Replace the screw with a longer M4 screw (probably M4 x 10mm or M4 x 12 mm).
    • IMPORTANT: the screw needs to be really tight.
    • Insert the PTFE inlet tube through the built-in retainer clip on top to position the tube toward front of printer, for ease of reach when loading filament.
    • Install your filament spools with the feed direction (at the top) pointed toward front of printer.

Change log

  • April 6, 2024, AM - initial upload of the remix work.
  • April 6, 2024, PM - added new version of the side-mounted spool holder model with a built-in retainer clip on top to position the PTFE inlet tube toward front of printer for ease of reach when loading filament. Install your filament spools with the feed direction at the top pointed toward front of printer. Images below show the initial installation of the PTFE tube in the retainer clip.

Other cool options for the AD5M

You may also like my other AD5M related design work:

Use Klipper stuff on AD5M stock hardware…

Check out other cool AD5M related options here:

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio