This isn’t something that was built with a V1 machine per se. Rather, it was something that was made with the confidence gained from building my first machine - a Lowrider 2 in 2020. (Plus my friends and wife DO NOT care about this stuff so figured someone here might!)
This is an Annex Engineering K3 an advanced 3D printer you build and source yourself that can print crazy fast and accurate. While there is lots of tweaking and improving ahead, it currently prints at 300mm/s @ 15k acceleration. To put that in perspective my first Ender 3 printer moved at 60mm/s @ 3k acceleration.
Without the knowledge and confidence gained from the community here there would be no way a middle aged man with an art degree and no engineering experience could build something like this. Thanks to everyone who helped over the years. This is a really solid, friendly community and the machines designed by V1 are not only exceptional in their own right, but give you a great foundation to build on. Cheers everyone!
Sherpa Mini is super light and surprisingly good. I built a Voron 0.1 and replaced the mini afterburner with an LGX lite as soon as I could but the Sherpa is awesome. The Sherpa Micro is even smaller and you have access to the large gear for manual loading/unloading. Both use BMG internals.
Super interesting. I really need to try lightening the load but buy the price tag for extruder and hotend is hard to swallow. If it saved me time, times eight printers, I bet I wouldn’t complain about the price…I just need to sift through all the new hotends and try to find the right one.
Dang. 8? Yeah that’s a tough one. Bed slingers wouldn’t really benefit from a light carriage so you could cross those off. You might benefit from an LGX Lite on other motions systems though. Costs a little more than a Sherpa build but it’s ready to go. Nice tensioning system. Lots of adapter plates. Could get away with using the same heat block and break and add a CHT nozzle to increase your volumetric flow rate.
Sherpa Mini kit is one open source deals where your going to have all kinds of pricing. LDO is a good brand with a kit at $60. Probably less if you print the body which why wouldn’t you with 8 printers. Put a box over one and print with ASA.
A CHT nozzle would cost about $20 if you need to increase your flow rate. I improved mine by switching by about 8 cubic mm per second which is dang good.
Yup second corexy design for me. I actually just revised all the parts a tiny bit for slightly better looks and fit on a few parts. MP3DP v4 - V1 Engineering Documentation I have been taking some notes so I can whip up a BOM to add to the CAD, and maybe a few instructions.
I should have less moving mass than the one you showed but at speeds that high and those accelerations the extra rigidity yours has with the dual gantry rails might have the advantage.
I’m running mine at about 12^3mm/s flow rate, cooling really starts to be an issue at that point. So minimum layer times factor in. I have an idea for a better print fan angle but I have not had time to hash it all the way out yet.
And the extra motors on X and Y! Yeah it’s stupid…
I really like your design. Using the lone linear rail for the X gantry instead of strapping it to an extrusion removes a ton of mass I bet. Got a friend looking to get into the hobby. Perfect op to build one!
That chonky Hemera would limit your speeds and accels huh? Maybe the lightweight extruder could free up weight and space for dual 5015s? Or even 4010s?
First of all, this is an extremely impressive machine. Well done! I’d love to build this thing…
Second, whenever I see machines that can handle these speeds, the examples typically show them printing larger parts with a bunch of rounded corners and geometries. How does your machine perform on smaller parts with finer details or squared edges? Do you need to slow it down a bit in your slicer settings to account for rapid direction changes at the corners? Do you get good bed adhesion at the corners when moving that fast?
I’d be interested to see a Benchy print on your machine. I know a Benchy is pretty rounded in most cases but it does have some smaller and more drastic movements towards the top (boat cabin and exhaust stack).
The video linked does show a bed full of parts. I am sure printing the first layer slow for adhesion is good and I think as long as you can cool the previous layer just enough not to curl fast printing probably make very nice parts as the whole bed of parts has less time to cool between layers.
I have definitely worried about that, though. I print at 55mm/s with a larger nozzle and that is so much heat I have to set a high minimum layer time to allow for things to harden up enough to print on.
So I think the simple answer is single prints will look just like a regular printer, they have to print slow to allow for cooling.
You’d be surprised. Once I get back in town I’ll print an example.
I’m not a mechanical engineer but with the crossXY gantry and the super rigid and constrained carriage it can handle corners very well. The hotend has a thin metal plate attached right above the heater block that is tied into the carriage which keeps it from shifting on fast corners. Square corner velocity (jerk) is 15mm/s right now but that is the minimum for the machine. Once I’ve got it tuned for PA and IS it should be able take corners faster.