Will do. It’s gonna be fun!
I’m using a 1” surfacing one with 50% stepover and 0.5mm depth of cut. Quite often use it to flatten wood because i do not have a thicknesser or planer. work great. my tram is not 100% but a little bit of sanding that you need to do anyway fixes that
machine is fullsheet LR4. never lost a step even when I’ve stuffed up and cut 2-3mm in one pass in some of the places. but that was soft pine.
talking about rigidity. does it make sense to make the end braces that screw to the aluminium plates from something stiffer like aluminium ? that connection feels weak. sandwiched 6mm aluminium screwed together to make up thickness?
From my tests recently I don’t actually see any issues there at all. Just make sure you print those end braces with a little extra infill like the instructions say.
The three mounting screws on each side, 6 total, all share the load and very shortly direct it into the strut plates. It is a pretty massive connection.
I’m not sure about the benefits or challenges of using cables to increase rigidity. I did, however, modify my LR3 to significantly increase the rigidity using other means.
- Increase # of strut braces (reduce distance between braces)
- Increase width of strut braces (from 15mm to 21mm)
- Use 1" Stainless Steel tubing (0.120" wall thickness)
- Use two layers of 2.5mm aluminum struts (solid except for logo cutout on one layer)
- Use 1/4" aluminum XZ plates
While I didn’t take measurements of flex before and after modifications, I did notice a substantial increase in stiffness from the original pre-modification build.
I’d advise against stainless since it’s always welded and not perfectly straight and round. DOM is a much better choice. 
Mine isn’t welded, and it’s very straight. Perhaps it’s DOM, but I just asked for SS Tubing at the Metal Supermarket. Maybe it’s a EU vs North America thing?
Interesting. 