So I’m sure one of the mods have a list. The main rundown is marlin is time tested and works great. NC will be the ultimate version once everything is worked out, it’s functional but lacking in some of those premium features at the moment.
I am currently using marlin for the moment. I will eventually get a jackpot board and either build a second LR3 or replace my SKR.
I mean I already bought the skr pro board and tft setup last year so might as well use it. I’m gonna order the Jackpot as soon as I understand what the heck I’m doing. I always dump way too much money into these things and often don’t get a working anything…
Trying to be smart and just finish one thing all the way through.
Take your time with the wiring. Pay close attention to the docs. If you have any questions post up here (with pics) and we will help you through it. It’s not near as bad as it looks!
FluidNC won’t run on the skr pro. Marlin won’t run on the jackpot. At least, not easily.
Trust me. Use Marlin and our prebuit binary for now. Use the premade test crown and once you have a crown drawing, you can start messing with the endstops and they will make a lot more sense.
If you want a jackpot, it is easier to start with a machine you know. A lot of the knowledge you’ll gain is completely transferable and you will appreciate the differences more.
No, don’t give up! Now that you have the gantry and the XZ/YZ plates all assembled, you’ll find that the rest comes together really quickly (at least I did)
There may be a few things that aren’t immediately clear, but most of your questions have probably already been raised in the forums (for example, see New 2 CNC start* LR3 build - #72 by adammay5 and subsequent replies for info on wiring the steppers), and there are lots of members here to help you when needed.
so I have been waiting on new wires. After moving it around back and forth over the last year, it seems a bunch of the wires are torn or loose. I was thinking about getting 50ft or so of braided cable for this and eventual other things. I dunno. Just another stalling point
Also, the assembly is really vague about how to set up the y axis rails and what dimentions. It says something about half the y or somethingl I know it’s important to make sure the thing is square, but then it just moves on.
I might not have drank enough OJ this morning, but I think I’m confused. Do you mean the X rails? I’m confused as there is only one Y rail (Or in my mind, I’ve been confusing X and Y this whole time).
The calculator helped me with all the measurements I needed, my apologies in advance if you were aware of this already.
If you are unsure about a step it would be best to ask what you are unsure of. This statement above doesn’t have a question. What about that step do you need help with? Pictures help of course, but If you have an issue we will try to clear it up and even adjust the instructions for future users.
Reading your statement seems like you are wanting us to tell you want size to make your build. The only restriction is the Y axis needs to be longer than the X. From there it is very open, do what you think suits your needs.
My biggest suggestion is take your time, read ahead a bit, and the three LowRider pages should have all the info you need it just might not be where you expect it (if it is not we can move it or repeat it, but it should be there).
EMT sizes are based on inside diameter (ID), so 1" (25.4mm) EMT has a larger outside diameter (OD). This is true for pipes designed for electrical, plumbing, gas, etc. They are based on internal capacity.
Stainless steel and DOM tubing are designed for structural use with sizes based on OD. The 25.4mm braces you printed are designed for use with 1" structural tubing.
I would not. Many times i wish i had the lr3. The wiring for mpcnc is harder to hide. Tool changes are abit tougher and you are close to finish. See it through