X Axis fitment

I’m going to step in here and edit some comments. I rarely do this but please understand why.

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Anyways. I ordered basically everything new. And I went with double shielded cables with the copper braid mesh. Also a grounding strap and some other emi bits.

Im going to elimate all the places where plastic interferes with star point grounding and basically start over.

Reprinting all the parts too cuz I have no clue why I went with the purple and greenish stuff.

Will check back sometime next year with the update if it solves the issue.

Thanks for all the help.

You can do whatever you want on your forums, mine are for fun stuff. Don’t be mad about it.

We have all types of people here including young classrooms full of students working on MPCNC builds, so please keep that in mind.

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Going to try to get the lowrider to work again. I got new stuff so hopefully it works this time…

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Let’s hope so, good luck.

The rest of us can help as needed.

Everyone wants to know how tight to adjust the belts. I wonder if any of my tuners would give me a ‘note’ off the belt. We could use that as a guide 'tighten the belt to low E, if you hit A#, you went too far…"

Aaaaand, its almost 1 am and I’m grabbing a tuner :laugh:

My Y belts are g# on the bass scale.

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The Carbon Drive App gives you a Hz number, or the Prusa Printer tuner. That’s a bit better for a CNC. You’d still need to know how long the belt needs to be for the right pitch.

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If you hit any notes whatsoever you are faaaar to tight. These belts should be 5-7lbs of tension, that should be in the instructions.

I know it actually says “if you pluck them and it makes a sound it is too tight”

They always make a sound. Everything else is physically impossible. :smiley: But I know what you mean at least. :stuck_out_tongue:

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G# on the bass scale is very close to floppy :slight_smile:

So I just noticed there is a new Lowrider version. I’m stoked. I pretty much lost steam on the v3 obviously.

Gonna start seeing if I can salvage any of the parts or just start from scratch.

Clean slate.

Electronics, motors, wiring, linear rail, and endstops all transfer over, and you can use your existing table.

All new printed parts, different sized EMT tubing, different length Z rods. Different XZ plates.

Good luck to you.

There’s an upgrade kit in the V1 store.

Best advice is just take it slow and follow the instructions to a T, best of luck! Look forward to seeing the build!

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Thanks Jim. I didnt see that option but the plates just arrived.

Thanks Jason.

I feel bad but at least I dont have to look at it anymore and can get moving towards another build…

Cheers.

Btw. Did anyone ever figure out the issue with homing on the old board?

That was so frustrating.

Taking it slow isnt my issue haha. Been building the lr3 for over a year at least since it first came out basically. Just had electric gremlins that stopped me in my tracks unfortunately but hopefully with the Jackpot I can trash the old board.

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I am in the exact same boat. Right at a year since I started and still not finished. I got my gantry finished then ran into personal issues and work that delayed me building my table. Now trying to decide if I should jump ship and build the LR 4 or just keep moving forward with the LR3.
My what a conundrum!!

sucks man I know!

Does anyone know on the new lowrider which size braces to print if my pipe is 1" DOM on the Lr3?

@DougJoseph