What would you want to see in a new lowrider build?

how much harder is the SKR Pro 1.2 to set up compared to the rambo? (for a noob that is)

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Are you thinking Dire Straits?

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The skr is easy. Ryan already has firmware setup to flash it. It is very capable and offers allot more future proof-ness… If that is a word…

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I’d say easier, actually. Download firmware file, put on SD card. Insert card into board, power on… Done.

The rest is plugging stuff in, and that’s the same no matter what board.

Gotta say, I’m totally stoked to see these out in the wild.

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I think that might become one of the first upgrades :slight_smile:

Never used a primo so I can not compare, but as it stands today, pulling out the Katsu/Makita router makes a tool change easy for someone clumsy like me :slight_smile:

+1 the SKR was easy to set up. I do believe however that sometimes it has a bit of a strange behavior because of the touch display.

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I was thinking Chili’s commercial.

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Does the SKR work with endstop? I noticed the Rambo is sold with endstops but not the SKR.
So make me curious if endstops do not work with the SKR.

Yes skr pro can have 6 end stop. You can buy them apart, choose NC. Just watch out to NOT use the 5V pin on the board 3 pins connectors.
Primo documentation explains skr pro wiring perfectly.

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It works with almost anything you can throw at it. It is a very capable board with lots of built in functionality. It even has extra fan control plugs for a laser or something fun like that. It will do all and more than you want.

Interesting. I have the mini rambo now. May need to upgrade later.
thanks.

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That is like me wanting a welder but i have never needed on before :upside_down_face: and probably never will or a plasma cutter for the one job i wanted to do 20 years ago and have moved 3 time since then but i still want it the stacking is a good idea

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Is the SKR Pico a suitable board for the LR3 (MPCNC/etc)? I’m getting adds from BIQU for $29/ea + free shipping on instagram.

Almost any 3+ axis board that runs Marlin can be made to manage any V1 CNC if you are willing to put in the work to adjust it. The trick is doing that.

Really, just.making it manage the correct steps per mm in X, Y and Z and you can do it. Maybe not with end stops, autosquaring or spindle control.

It appears that the Pico is optimized for klipper, which is also OK, and should work, but not everyone can gove you tech advise for that. (I think some people can at least help though)

If you are comfortable with the firmware, the board is less important. I use Duet boards on my CNC machines, for example.

I’ve spent the last couple of weeks looking at making a more rigid and sturdy LR2 with nema23s…I ordered the drivers and steppers from Amazon, then caught wind that the LR3 was happening!

I had a peep on the Patreon and it looks 10x better than what I had planned so I’ve cancelled my orders with Amazon and instead will be constantly checking what happens here…

Very excited.

Thank you again Ryan!

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There’s a nema 23 build that looks&WORKS its from @tgm022861 irc. I was planning to build another lr2 using his mix but i’ll wait fot the lr3 also

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No. That is 4 drivers you will be wanting 5 if you want to take advantage of the endstops and squaring. 4 can work but you will sacrifice one axis worth of squaring.

It’s Sting singing along with Dire Straits.

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huh, no sh!t. I never knew that. Apologies all around. :sweat_smile:

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There’s the answer. Thanks!

Which drivers would you recommend?

In the past I think I’ve made the mistake of buying cheap Nema17s and I think that they have ended up becoming the weak point.

I’m planning on buying steppers from the V1 store, will you be offering stepper drivers in the store too?

I’m also running a cheap 500w palm router, but I’m considering the routER11, there not much in the way of 230V options down here in NZ

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