Belt mounts, seems to covered, someone remixed the Primo version, I would like a dial in version to avoid layers of masking tape though. I had two boards, perfectly aligned, drilled the same holes through both at the same time, still managed to be off half an inch. So, embed a square bolt on a slidey bit and adjust, make it overly complicated, to show off or summon demons.
End stop locations, how about adding some tabs to places that seem appropriate, touching L shapes, or one hand clapping versions, nothing fancy, thick enough not to immediately break. Wheel mounts would be ideal to have a hanging tab, small balcony near the Z motors, on either end, one for X facing down, the other for Z facing out. Should be printable in the existing orientation.
Ryan mentioned main priority is attachments for the plate, so probably already addressed. The way my Makita router is setup, I have little vacuum at the bit, and little dust collection unless going DMV slow, I am sure the DeWalt version works better, but not sure the pie cutout is even doing anything. Definitely need some extra room around the rim or slots to attach some sort of shoe, if not to form a seal, a barrier to the leaf blower of sawdust. There is getting dirty and then there is looking like a snowman when surfacing at F2000.
The use of screws for holing the little Vās in, replace with little plastic tabby screw thingys, a cylinder with a slot and rounded lumps on the end to snap in place yet removable. A bit thicker than the bolt. If possible in the same print operation, or not.
Wherever there is a bolt / nut, make a matching restraining shape for the nut in the plastic, not all nuts are the same, of course, so maybe not. If not a full capture, a depth restraint, a bit of plastic with a hole in it to allow for the bolt, but no specific dimensions otherwise, maybe a flat bit to keep the nut from turning. When tensioning the rails, sometimes the nut slides along and you donāt notice because itās on the other side.
Restraining clamps for the tubing, the tension has a memory that is not always desirable, another clamp that you can beat up would be nice, hang a curtain from it to keep the dust away from the bearings. Nothing I canāt make myself, but throwing it out there.
V1 logo, needs to be deeper and pronounced, art it up, make it sexy, the graffiti one would be cool, not sure you can get the detail though at simple and fast settings.
ā¦
If your origin is the corner of your work piece, and you square using the physical limits then engage the motors, you have to jog to get to the right x/y coordinates, and fiddle with something to get that set, much easier when the motors are not on, but then you possibly lose the motor sync. If you have to repeat a job with new material or turn it over or be precise with a 2 step situation, you need more than a consistent Z, you need X and Y to be the same each time too. One guy on youtube uses a aluminum block and the bit touches the top and sides. Not really platform though, just an add on.
With rails you can ride the rails unless everything is perfect, essentially everything has to be perfect anyway, what can be done about that without it becoming one of those machines?
The z axis can be out of sync if something turns off the motors without warning. I can implement an accelerometer solution to shows the level of the gantry, or just have one of those water bubble levels built in. Or a ball bearing in a 3D printed slide. How about a bipolar mercury switch?
When your bit is hanging out, you have to solve the parking problem or your Z axis will be lopsided from that as well.
So, twist and tilt solutions and and some sort of reference setting, and world peace of course.
Would making the base wider cause an issue? If the X pipes were another 49 mm apart, I could use the stock vacuum attachment for my Makita router.
Wouldnāt it be wild to be able to use a full size router instead of a trim router?
Cheers!
Thread summary
Nut capture, issue with standards, but a few people would like it.
Plate redesign, wider size by 50 mm or 3 inches, reasons; moving the X stepper to the inside to have a better center of gravity, dust broom, larger router, stock vacuum attachments or vacuum print on the inside of the pipe. Really just a stretching of the 3D printed bit where the z motor rests, maybe it can scale out and up. Iāll leave the physics to Ryan, but as it stands you could have a custom plate with 3 routers on it, but the rails are too close for much modification in that direction. Can it be done without sizing the print out of peopleās printer capabilities?
Parking and Homing support, either directly or through features to hang mods off.
Use Primo style end structures for the belts.
Go Vertical, some interest there, probably need a new name as a separate project, āwall climberā?
5 axis?
Smaller footprint. Fold up table when not in use. Angled when in use (if we do this we are building in a panel saw attachment). Vertical (seems excessive).
Hi,
One of the most frustrating things in building my LR2 has been the fact that the nuts are not captured - meaning they are free to turn as I tighten the bolts. The space at the nuts is so limited, and is such awkward places that I REALLY struggle to hold them fast while I tighten the bolts. Capturing the nuts would be awesomeā¦
This design is for metric and imperial nuts, so it is an awkward spot where it doesnāt fit either well. Once you get cutting, you wonāt notice. But in the meantime the best advice is to just jam a little flat head screw driver in to keep it from turning.
I wonder when the world will pick one system over the other? Base 10 is cool and all, but some on the fly math works better with imperial and itās more relatable, I can easily imagine an inch and a foot, harder getting there with metric. Seeing this is CNC though there should be less eye balling and āgood enough / fix it laterā work, to me, metric would be the more logical route as everything is decimal anyway, computers rarely display fractions (LaTex?), however availability of metric anything is shite locally.
The US is actually on the metric system. For one thing, and inch is defined as 25.4mm. For another thing, I thought there was actually law passed in the 70s to make it official, but no one follows it. .
Convincing an american machine shop to convert is going to be a hard sell. And we arenāt the only offenders, really. Donāt the English still talk about peopleās weight in stones?
Itās funny to say ājust a coupleā but our population isnāt exactly a small number. If it was good enough for the moon landing, itās good enough for me!
Even in well behaving(in terms of adapting international standards) and well regulated (some would add boring) Norway, we still say ātwo thumbs fourā, when we look for construction materials.
For me, I think more rigidity ā¦ Iām about to embark on cutting some new Y-plates out of 3/4-inch plywoodā¦ Iām not sure what the problem is (I think the pieces I got had some ānoncircularā holes) but my Y-plates move aroundā¦
I also think a 611-plate redesign that readily accommodates a removal dust skirt would be nice.
Primo-style belt terminations.
Finally, maybe a way to make sure it tracks straight. Iāve added a rail on the inside of the wheels, but some other solution might work as well.
I recently read a web page from my google feed about why we will never have a universal language, loosely translated, ahem, āpeople are arseholesā. I think the main reason Esperanto isnāt it, is, well one reason, itās called Esperanto.
Not exactly low expectations for a new lowriderā¦ common measuring system, a universal language, and preventing people from becoming arseholesā¦ @vicious1 I hope you are at good spirits!!
I wonder what kind of things could be part of the base platform of the lowrider 2, vs things that are cooked up on the fly as the need arises? I can add accelerometers, led strips, laser pointers without it being part of the platform, so what would be better as the platform.
More thoughts before I forget:
If your origin is the corner of your work piece, and you square using the physical limits then engage the motors, you have to jog to get to the right x/y coordinates, and fiddle with something to get that set, much easier when the motors are not on, but then you possibly lose the motor sync. If you have to repeat a job with new material or turn it over or be precise with a 2 step situation, you need more than a consistent Z, you need X and Y to be the same each time too. One guy on youtube uses a aluminum block and the bit touches the top and sides. Not really platform though, just an add on.
With rails you can ride the rails unless everything is perfect, essentially everything has to be perfect anyway, what can be done about that without it becoming one of those machines?
The z axis can be out of sync if something turns off the motors without warning. I can implement an accelerometer solution to shows the level of the gantry, or just have one of those water bubble levels built in. Or a ball bearing in a 3D printed slide. How about a bipolar mercury switch?
When your bit is hanging out, you have to solve the parking problem or your Z axis will be lopsided from that as well.
So, twist and tilt solutions and and some sort of reference setting, and world peace of course.
Would making the base wider cause an issue? If the X pipes were another 49 mm apart, I could use the stock vacuum attachment for my Makita router.
Wouldnāt it be wild to be able to use a full size router instead of a trim router?
.