That one is not happening…taking it off the table easily might.
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Bummer… gonna have to cry myself to sleep now… lol.
Very interested in seeing the new design when completed. Waiting patiently 
Very new to the community. And just went to order the LowRider Bundle. It links to this forum saying it is no longer being sold…
That’s exciting, scrolling up through the comments. Ready to pounce on the new bundle once it arrives! 
Completely new to CNCing, but have just completed a Voron printer build, so keen to move on to a chunkier machine build. Keeping eyes open!
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Right. Because the bundle is more difficult for Ryan to package. Though there is a new LR in development, it’s probably not going to be ready anytime “really soon” and it will probably go through some beta testing first. I believe that it is still worth looking at building the current LowRider2, but you won’t be able to buy the nicely assembled hardware kit. You can buy the printed parts, and most of the specialty hardware, like wheels, and axle spacers are available. The V1 shop still has the more regular stuff like motors, pulleys and idlers, belts, Z rods and nuts, too. What’s missing is the 5/16" nuts and bolts, 5mm nuts and bolts as well as the #6-32 screws and nuts, which should be more possible to source locally or online from the BOM.
Ryan has indicated that it should be relatively simple to update to the new build when it’s ready. I’ll plan on updating my LR2 to a LR3 when it’s available.
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Sure thing. That does make sense. Some forwards comparability would be nice, but who knows what the future holds for LR3. Still early days.
Will have a look through the shop and see what I need compared to the BOM being in Aus, may be simpler to source locally and off AliExpress direct.
Welcome aboard! As I get closer, and I am confident in any new hardware requirements, I do let them slip. So you would be able to get them.
Just remember I just started, things are going well, but there is always that possibility that this new direction is no good for some reason and need to start over.
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I need a 4’x4’ LR to fit in the space of a 2’x2’ MPCNC.
Maybe some type of space/time folding capability?
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What I really need is for it to use the 1500mm linear rails and ball screws I just bought so I don’t have to design my own machine 
And be stiff enough to push around a 2.2kw water-cooled spindle.
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Ryan, I am currently building the LR2. Should I put the build on hold? Or will I be able to just upgrade to the LR# by just replacing some hardware?
Inferring from recent comments and past history, an announcement of a “new” LR3 could be anywhere from a week to three months away. If you’ve got a current use case and a deadline, I’d build the current version.
Anything you learn putting it together and putting it to use will absolutely be applicable to the new version, and a lot of the hardware and electronics are highly likely to be transferrable as well, but there are no guarantees of that.
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Thanks Tom, there are not any jobs pressing… Just the time invested in the building the LR2.
As stated, its been a great learning experience.
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If you’re already on the path, might as well walk it to the end.
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Well originally I had made room for the linear rails on the X axis at least, now I am rethinking that…but there might be an option to replace the round rails with some printed parts and linear rails. I am keeping that in the back of my mind…So far 23s will fit if you really feel the need for that. 
Have not gotten to the leadscrew part yet. Link to your screw dims?
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I would build the LR2 right now. For these reasons:
- There is no timeline or even a promise of improvement for LR3. It really is vaporware right now.
- The LR2 is a great machine. No urgent problems that need to be fixed. You can enjoy the LR2 while waiting for the LR3. Even if the LR3 comes out this spring or summer, there’s no reason you can’t enjoy the LR2 until fall or winter before updating.
- Many of the parts in previous updates have been reusable. So you aren’t losing much by building two versions. The printed parts are almost certainly going to need to be replaced. The electronics are almost certainly going to be reusable.
- You also have a lot to learn. Any CNC machine is going to come with a lot of details that are not obvious. You can learn a lot and your second build can be done by someone with experience (you!).
- When LR3 first comes out, the first users will find things out and the community will be spending some time trying to learn what quirks are common. If you’re new to CNC, better to get started on an established version.
Each new version always brings up this question a lot. Maybe there is a place we can post this so we don’t have to rewrite it a bunch.
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Jeff, Thank you for the response, that is the exact answer I was looking for.
Although I had already made my mind up, you just confirmed it.
I am fairly new to CNC, but do well with 3D printing. That being said, I am very excited about this current build I am involved with.
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I am going to link this post directly from the LR kit page, the most common path in. I hope that helps out a bit.
Mail pickup came early, might get some extra time to work on the new build today!
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Well said.
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I went with this kit. I found it’s pretty well put together. The ball screw is slightly longer than the linear rails to make sure you have full use of the linear rail.
That is a good price! I am going to have to take a look at the 1204 and 1605 just to see the weight difference. Seems like it might be significant. I would really like to use the MGN12h’s just so if I do buy them they work in the Repeat as well, but not set in stone. I want to make it compatible…but probably not come stock. I am desperately trying to gain performance and lower the cost.
So for stock Z travel what are we thinking, 4-6"? I of course would do my best to make it possible to go more, but I have never needed more than 4" it and if we are homing to Z max tall builds waste time.
why not split the difference and go with 5. I think most people cut sheet goods so probably max 1" of material + 1.5" cutting bit length + .75" for a standard touch pad + 1.75" to get a dust skirt under the bit and into the 611 plate. 5"ish seems to be standard for most of the hobby machines out there as well
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