The current size is 200^3 with a little extra room.
Q: build plate support that connects to the 3 motors:
Forgive the question if I have simply overlooked the obvious information. I have seen pictures including it, but not a drawing. It doesnāt show as an item in the shop either. Is that a piece I need to draw or export from the fusion setup? Is there a recommended material for it?
edit: updated docs. answer is there now
Made google sheet with yellow boxes to input desired print dimensions and it will tell you how long to cut extrusion pieces. It does not auto-round to 50 mm increments, so as long as you input 50 mm increments from 200 then it should work. An extra leg addition has been added to allow lifting the top or bottom for adding enclosure or electronics above/below. Use if you like.
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The CAD will need to still get edited though, the bed plate DXF is going to be custom depending on the size and extruder type.
I will try to add more notes to the mp3dp page today. Y and Z are fine at any lengths really (25mm just makes linear rail sourcing easier. X has to be in multiples of 25 for the mounting to work.
Update: V4 build progressing.
- 20 mm struts in hand
- linear rails arrived yesterday
- build plate / heated bed arrived last week
- 3 of 5 motors in hand
- BTT octopus with 8 drivers + screen arrived a few weeks ago
- got a friend to start printing pieces
still need pulleys, idlers, a couple stepper motors, power supply, extruder, and a pile of nuts and bolts. Thinking Iāll go with the BTT H2 extruder ($79)ā¦ curious if it would be worth getting the all metal high heat one to do exotic materials, but I would welcome thoughts on extrusion options.
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I like that one but it has a odd nozzle. I went with the regular H2 and a CHT nozzleā¦I have not tried it yet, or designed a mount for it. It looks pretty nice so far.
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Good luck. I found that acquiring the parts was only 1/4th the work.
Wiring, by far, took me the longest.
yeah, wiresā¦ I probably need some of those too. If I donāt have to make the jst plugs with crimpers, that will save some time. I spent a lot of time doing that with the mpcnc.
A small pick works really well for pushing the small wires into the back of the little connector housings.
The struggle was getting the crimped end on without dropping it. My crimper didnāt fit with the pin on the reel, so I had to take each one off the reel, hold them, feed in the wire and crimp it without dropping the pin. the crimp time certainly improved with practice, but I wouldnāt recommend it.
I have to take the pins off too.
What I do is put the pin in the crimper first.
I put the pin in with my right hand and the crimper in my left so I can more easily line it up. Then I squeeze the handle so it clicks once. This squeezes the pin just enough to hold the pin in the crimper.
Then I put the crimper in my right hand. Then push the wire in from the side and squeeze the handle the rest of the way; finish the crimp.
It is the way.
I would give anything to find a better solution. The first 100-200 SETS of wires I crimped by handā¦I have a deep hate for doing it.
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Donāt know if what am trying out is better, but am using 3D printed part to shroud and secure Dupont to Dupont connections using a strip of male pin headers that help extend stepper cables. Am using 12" pre crimped dupont cables (nicer than average, 22AWG).
Not ideal, have some ideas, but thatās another project I should probably not get into just yetā¦
Yeah I have been thinking about that. I am building a custom LR3 right now and I want a easy disconnect for the side YZ panels. That might be the best bet.
LR3 built for suitcase travel?
If you already having to splice and crimp wires near the YZ plates, would you use JST, or Molex Micro Fit 3mm (BTTās EBB uses these for Power + CANBus), am starting to like them.
Doing a wire to wire connection? Or, given how much space is available on outside of YZ plates could have connector/shroud mounted to YZ plate, enabling opportunity for better strain relief (e.g. velcro/zipties threaded through additional YZ plate slots/holes) so not all of the strain is on the connector and wire-ends/crimps.
Hmmm that might be cool.
I keep looking at it and I think just labeling the wires to the control board real good will be the cleanest. That also lets me take the board off the back of the beam for shipping.
I have my red one from RMMR sitting here, I need to prep it to ship and I am building another. So I have two to experiment with. (really want to try some steel cutting thoughā¦Sundays are my play days)
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I use plugs similar to the molex ones. If I have more than one set of wire connections going to the same place, then I flip the connector on one set so that the male and female plugs are opposite each other between the two sets.
For instance, if I have 2- two wire fans that I need to splice a connector to, one fan will have a male connector, the other fan will have a female connector.
That way when Iām plugging everything in, itās impossible for me to plug the wrong fan into the wrong plug.
Technically, you could plug the two fans into each other and the two outputs into each other, but Iāve never done that.
I only do this on things Iām plugging / unplugging regularly.
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Choicesā¦those molex are very clean.
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