Oh man don’t beat yourself up man. What’s going on there is a lot of ppl willing to help. I was a complete noob when I started. I am no wiz but can make some cuts and learn everyday
Definitely not stupid. There is a ton to learn and isn’t an all in one tutorial for everything. You’ll learn it piece by piece. And you can learn as much or as little as you’d like.
Definitely don’t beat yourself up about figuring out the forum too, if you’ve never been on one before they are much more difficult than normal social media platforms. Heck even if you have platform to platform can vary vastly.
oof. Well glad to say it is only a GFCI.
I got a little more done today, got the makita mounted and some of the cabling back together. Also got a ground cable through the shop vac hose. unfortunately family came down with something so I’m trying not to push myself and make it worse, slow n steady right now.
Yup, this was extremely annoying when building my dads house. Arc-fault and tools with brakes didn’t get along.
As mentioned already, no worries. We don’t bite. Much. 
For making a post, there should be a big, round button on the bottom right with a ‘+’ in it. That’s the “new topic” button. Try to get it in the right category, but don’t sweat it too much. We’re pretty good at contextual clues (and quite a few folks have the power to move threads to the appropriate category).
As for walkthroughs, I don’t know how many there are on YouTube, but the Media page has a bunch of videos from the community.
The Docs link at the top of the page leads to the assembly instructions for all of the V1 machines, including recommended print settings.
Help me determine if I’ve figured out my issue and/or a possible fix. For my build I have built everything but the YZ plates. I had a friend cnc it on his machine. He didn’t know how/wasn’t able to pilot drill the holes for the Z Rails. What I did was take some measurements off F360 and used my digital caliper to transfer those onto the plates. It appears I messed up somewhere as the front (-y) side is down and the back (+y) side is up compared to the other side.
The back (+y) rail is only above the yz plate by .7mm
The front (-y) however is 2-3mm lower
Any ideas on fixes for this? Or will I need to recut the plates and reassemble the whole machine? Would this be what is causing my issue of what appears to be a twisted rail?
When I cut my plates, I did a tool change and used a V bit to put a 0.5-1mm depth hole at the center of the mount hole locations. Then took them to a drill press and drilled small holes in those spots for mounting.
Short of that, the next best bet probably would have been to print out the design to scale to transfer the locations before drilling.
You can definitely see that the tops of your linear rails are not in the same spot, but I would expect that to cause more of a problem with Z level than twist.
However, if your rails are not both perfectly perpendicular to the Y-Axis as they should be or not parallel, I would expect that to cause you problems.
I’m wondering if that is my issue. If I managed to get the heights wrong wouldn’t be far off to assume they have a slight twist.
I’ll think of a way to check it when I can. Any thoughts on a fix? Only thing I can think of currently is printing some kind of template and drilling holes through the back side and replacing the screws with similar sized bolts. Only question is, is it worth the hassle or should I just recut both sides to make sure everything is set
If it’s worth the hassle or not I think is up to you.
It’s likely you can print a template and find a way to get it just right.
If it were me, and I had access to another CNC machine and enough MDF, I would recut it just for peace of mind if nothing else
Okay last question before I decide. Like with the struts do you think my cnc is setup good enough to cut the plates? After taking measurements (best I can with it assembled) the Z rails are on average about 1-2mm out of parallel.
Have you gone though all the leveling and squaring in the docs? if you have and everything seems to be running good then I don’t see why you would have any issue cutting your own YZ plates. Use a 1/16" endmill for the linear rail screw holes and 1/8" for everything else. Should be good to go. Unless I missed something else in the thread and if so i apologize.
Yes. Both on and off cnc table
Yes its just surfacing the workbench I got bad streaks. Then tramming seemed impossible as it varied side to side. Then found out my dewalt router was running really hot and “melted” the tool mounts.
But as for cutting its worked really well. The struts were a struggle as my initial spoilboard was 1/4” out of plum
This is where my mind is at. It should be well within parameters to cut most things. It’s just those super accurate parts will be slightly twisted.
I did however ask for a outside perspective from the wife and she pointed out to me that I could try fixing it with the template and some bolts and if that doesn’t fix it enough I can always cut new ones later.
Well I decided to try the bolt method and I ripped everything apart used a template to drill some holes and bolted everything back down. The issue is now 99% fixed. The 3d printed part that had a partial failure is now causing a square issue and I believe the other 1%. My variance is now down to .5mm and only on right side (X max). I am currently reprinting the part and have not had a layer lifting issue sense printing these parts.
that I don’t have some wacky issue printing
Thank you all so much for your help and joining me on this whacky adventure.
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Thats awesome! Glad you are getting it back going. Break downs can sure be frustrating but its always satisfying when you get it back going again. Cut you some new YZ plates and you’ll be good as new!
Okay new ZX plate installed. She’s cutting clean. There’s a micro line that you can’t feel or see on camera but I can. I am more than happy with these results!!! Thank you all again!
Now just have to figure out why my shop vac wanted to quit on me
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Maybe it was scared of all the dust you’re going to start making. 
Unfortunately I was using one of those dust bags and it got full, caused the shop vac to clog. Trying to figure out if the damage was Permanent or just temporarily overheating. Hopefull as I caught it early
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Welp…. It happened again. Kinda?
Perhaps I’m asking too much of the routers?
Everything was running great refursacing was going good. Went for about 50 minutes, router didn’t exceed 70 degrees. Then it did. By the time I realized the pause function wasn’t going to pause the machine (SD plugging into skr voids tft pause?) it reached 110. Performed an emergency stop… again… will check mounts and tramming in the am after it cools. Lucky I think I got to it fast enough the bushing didn’t wear out.
It was running fine while it was cutting 1-2mm but about 10 minutes into cutting 3mm it started over heating.
25mm surfacing bit, 3mm DOC, 30 mm/s federate, 75% step over
Router set to dial 2, google says 12,190 RPM
Wife pointed out today that I was using a long extension cord. I honestly never gave it a second thought as it was just plugged in to the wall and ready to go. Do you think it could be too small of an extension cord to run the lr3 and a dust collector, thus creating a current issue which results in extra heat?
Very plausible. What AWG of extension cord, and how much current do you draw through it? If you get enough drop through the cord, that can also be a reason why the tool starts running hot.