So I have had issues with the flat connectors coming loose inside of my controller box both steeper motor connections and end stop connections randomly pop off.
Are there any adapters out there to go from the flat connectors to the style plugs that fit the board better?
Have you removed the plastic connectors from the board?
Once you do this they connect MUCH better and stay on no problem
The easiest way is to make sure the cables are strain relieved somewhere relatively close. That way there’s minimal mass of unsupported cable to move the connectors. I usually aim to try have cables tied off somewhere within ~100mm of the connectors, but closer is better.
A small blob of hot glue can be another good approach. That’s normally how we retain connectors and stabilize components that are prone to vibrating or having pins damaged by mechanical stresses.
Do not ever use CA glue/superglue for this. It fumes, wicks and turns electrical connections unreliable.
lol… I was going to respond and say I’ve seen a lot of people use hot glue to hold the connectors in place…then I thought to myself “I’ll leave it to one of the professionals…They might come in here and scold me for that”…didn’t know if that was frowned upon or not.
All of my Creality boards have had the connectors hot glued together. I suspect it cuts down quite a bit on the “loose connector” support after boxing, shipping, unpacking, assembly, etc.
Thoughts on 100% Silicone usually used for bath tubs and showers? Siliconed high voltage connectors on my MP3DP’s power outlet and SSR terminals.
This worked well for my LR3 and MP3DP’s DuPont connectors.
It’s astonishing how many times I have read through those docs but still always miss something.
I thought about reprinting the controller case and adding some sort of cable clamp to the opening to better constrain the wires there any the opening too.
Female locking Molex 0050579404
Male locking Molex 0701070003
The female connectors lock to the connectors mounted on the Jackpot and some of the other boards.
I got the connection sockets and pins listed because it was in stock at the time. Look at the spec sheets for the wire gauge you need and each has 4 choices of plating and 2 choices of reel or loose for each. Something should be in stock.
As long as it’s neutral cure I suspect that’d be fine. The acid cure stuff can get pretty nasty. I like the hot glue because it’s quite reworkable. It’s not often that you need maximum strength on something or sealing, it’s often actually quite a small amount of force that’s being prevented, so having the ability to pop the glue off is nice.
We use hot glue for tons of stuff, it’s just fancy hot glue. There are different temperature ranges, different viscosity and it’s usually applied with a temperature controlled gun, sometimes with one-shot volumetric dispensing, other times applied by robot.
At the end of the day it’s still basically just hot glue, though!
My strain relief is just a zip tie on both sides of the hole where the wires come into the case. I gave the wires a strong tug after adding the zip ties, and there was no slippage.
