Ok, quick and dirty cad model is updated
I would probably face the flat area to the front, so a "low rider3 " sticker or something could be added to make look better, but i flipped it just for clarity.
Anyone else liking this design?
Seems easy and cheap, not sure if it wrecks the look of the LR3 or not .
Clearly the “slider” would have to have some bearings running on the surfaces, as smooth as posible to limit extra load on the CORE steppers, the beam is 16mm wide so i could probably fit 2 stacked next to each other on that centre tong of the slider. That would keep the physical size down.
My fear would be that the rolled metal C section would have a lot of twist - the other thing that concerns me is that it pushes the vac inlet further from the action?
I’m all for whatever works. The more I work on this the more convinced I am of Ryan’s genius at design.
I have been working on a different approach, one somewhat akin to the “pressure plate” concept mentioned above. There are a lot of details and competing interests to bear in mind. I’m aware there can be major issues in this approach if I don’t use bristles — if the dust shoe is literally touching the material, it could “catch” an edge of an upset profile part that’s sticking up. With suction that close, it would be even more likely to pry up a small, cut part. Bristles (or something flexible like that) could bend and not hang. (Insisting on always using tabs could alleviate the requirement for bristles.)
By contrast, there’s a lot to like about your approach. Set the height as close as needed, and it stays there, and does not touch the material, and hopefully does not have an issue of “catching” on an upset cut part.
I think there are probably pros and cons to all the various approaches.
The motorized, reverse-Z approach can also be set at a desired height, and stay at that height, not touching the material, etc. However, it comes at a cost of added complexity, added hardware, wiring, stepper, etc, and requires a way to sync with the stepper, and also de-sync at will, when needed. More complex design.
I have an effort almost ready to show, but I don’t yet have bristles incorporated into it, and I have yet to order any 2.5" dust hose (the PVC flex kind of hose).
Yes this concerns me as well. Also depending on the type you buy, some have dimples pressed into them for the plaster to grip to. Other are smooth. I was hoping that by capturing the ends in the prints that twist would be lessoned.
Oh, that is me jsut being lazy and lack of time. If you look back up at the post by @DougJoseph, he pointed at a design by Alex Chapple and that uses a 3d printed… duct… that allows the offset from the bellows to the vac pipe.
I was thinking was to only have a circle of brissles say ???200mm??? or the same size as the bellows and the duct is brought out to the front to eliminate the axis travel issues.
Well that reason there is enough of a reason for me to create a differetn mounting design!
Thanks Doug, your very kind.
I am just trying to give back. you never know what sparks somebody’s (good or bad) idea fairy.
The reality is , like you said, Ryans design is great, but I and cutting a lot of MDF and its just not capturing enough of the dust for me. But when I start cutting aluminium parts, I will need it to be out of the way for the mist cooling setup I have seen being setup on your accessories magnet, I plan to use that!.
So like i said this being removable is one of my clear goals for this. (plus i am getting the stink eye from my brother when he sent me a picture of his super expensive servo driven turbo waste gates covered in a nice layer of dust. we wont talk about the race car being covered as well…) Woooops .
The reality is that weight of the bar is not of super concern as the gantry is not lifting it, as its on the main frames. I am happy to add and try all of these suggestions (to the limit of my CAD skills) so we can get a better end result.
So i could use angle iron or some of that 25x25mm square tube (its comes in steel and aluminium.) but i will use steel as it easy to get here.
That will fix the saging issues and twisting issues. I will update the CAD model and see what everyone thinks.
Also i think that i have taken up enough of this thread, if some of the smarter people here think its worth persuing, i will spin off another thread and keep going there.
I really am interested to see if people think its worth pursuing, and there thoughts on the “looks” as @Ryan has made the LR3 to look pretty good, so i would like to make it at least not detract from the LR3 looks
I have been digesting this and i think that if i made a mount that sat under you mudguard with some magnets in it i could then mod the backets to magnet hold through your mudguards.
hmmmm, interesting
I am really not sure of the force that will be applied to this thing, its getting to the point were i need to prototype the design.
Obviously the setback will have to be worked on, and the vac mount will have to be changed, but the design of attaching to the main frame definately works.
I thing i am going to push forward with the rear design as i love the look of the LR3 and i think my first design will make it look worse not better.
I would have to work around the vac hose and how that will work for people that are using the LR3 in the standard config where the vac hose is gather along the back but technically is teh same, but not sure it will be the same in practice.
Just FIY, this has already been done in the community in fact… on the MPCNC
But, just as stated above, it’s abit “easier” or “more conventional” because the gantry height stays unchaged when moving Z
At some point I was even considering enclosing the whole LR3 by adding a sort of “cage” between the plates and above the cor, and then put some clear plastic on top of this (just plain transparent wrapping or acrylic panels if you want to go fancy)
Kind of like a “moveable enclosure”
This wouldn’t even require a specific dust boot, the enclosure would take care of the flying particles, and they’d just fall back to the surface, ready to be picked up by the original dust boot, or a quick clean after the work…
Toyed a bit with this idea looking for a way to evacuat fumes from the laser without enclosing the whole table
I like the idea of the dust cover, that would def contain the dust. If you put some brushes on the edges it would be pretty tollerant of displaced parts.
If you made some mounts you could drop it on top. The problem would be with a gantry like mine at 1220 cutting distance so about 1400 overall. Trying to get that off and on might be a challenge…
Maybe some kind of belows/curtains?
Add some plastic/IRL tubing making an exo-cage between the YZ plates, and have some kind of plastic sheet riding over it?
Yup, anytime I get an idea I find a reason not to pursue it.
Try the blue tape on teh dust shoe, see if that helps you. If it does a fancy dust shoe will as well. If it doesn’t a shoe is not going to make it better. I cut 99.9% MDF daily. With the tape I can get into a 1/8" slot nearly 1/2" deep. Without it not a single spec of dust gets away I just do not get in the channels. So when you say what we already have isn’t working, I am wondering what aspect is not working for you.
My tips are use the shortest endmill you can and keep the machine as low as possible.
So the mist system introduces air which can blow chips very far and can blow it out of the bristles as well. Keep the pressure as low as possible while still clearing your cuts. For me with a bit of IPA in the mist it keeps the chips nearby since they stick to the liquid then as it dries the tape test shoe picks up a lot of the debris.
Make something that works first, prove it out, quick and dirty. If it works and we see it in action we can all help make it better.
I do really like this line of dust shoe it makes a ton of sense to me. It would make an amazing project right along side of making your own strut plates. super minimal cost, a few bearings and makybe a printer of a couple cut parts.
I think the front is best. There is a lot going on in the back and some people use large hoses. That and the machine can use some weight in the front.
I haven´t read all posts so hope I don´t repeat something.
What if you´d mount 2 linear rails to the side of the core (obviously little mod needed there to vertically fit them).
Mount a dust shoe that goes around the router bit and is mounted to the linear rail carrier.
Add longer semi stiff commercial bristles to the bottom of the shoe.
that´s it.
no motor; just use gravity for the dust shoe to drop down thanks to the rail…
The bristles will help to keep it floating while traveling your piece.
If you raise Z the shoe would remain on the bottom due it´s weight.
To replace your bit you just pull up the construction.
Well, i dont think i have ever pronted tpu, and i like that idea. The pictureb in the post looks cool too.
Also as i would have to order the bristles on line, i will be definitely be buying a roll of tpu and stealing some timenon my brothers pronter to do this.
Do you have that design on printables, or could you link to the one you used?
Thid is this biggest cause of dust for me, the channels fillup and then a “high-pressure” spurt flys out the solide of the dust shoe.
Now i am not going to say its not a combination of my shiity setup and lack of user experiance, cos from what you have said with your setup it definitely is .
The getto fibertape i have as the skirt is definitely to soft for my airflow. As a lot of them are getti g sucked up.
But after watching the videos, the channels filling up is definitely a problem for me. I am sure now its not a vac issue as FrankenVAC definitely has the suction. So i will need to work on stickout and maybe those TPU brushes.
