I was going for a LR4 build but I had all the parts for the LR3, so I build it. Printed in 0.16mm layer height in the colors glitz grey and gold.
I had a lot of fun printing, planning and assembling this build. It uses a Jackpot board.
I also had fun drawing the crown!
LR3 is a great machine. What do you plan to make with it?
I am hoping (and planning) to make a lot of plywood cuts. I am planning to use 20mm, 18mm ,12mm and 6mm plywood. If possible, I’ll make kitchen cabinets. I’m currently looking for router bits to use for plywood cuts in these dimensions. All suggestions are welcome?
Should I use upcut, downcut, compression bit for plywood?
Upcut is your friend. Compression bits are extremely hard to get your feeds and speeds right. A good sharp single flute upcut bit will work really well.
I have built a few cabinets on my old LR3 and now LR4. You will have to do a bit of sanding but the upcut bits work really well.
Ok. Great! What diameters and tool length should I look for?
1/8" (~3mm) will do anything you need it to. you can also use 1/4" (~6mm)as well. Biggest thing is that it has enough cut length for the thickness of your plywood, and its single flute. Also run your router at lower speeds. Pay attention to the chips. You want nice clean chips, not dust! Chips are what cools the bit, dust doesn’t and you will burn the bit up REAL quick.
You don’t want super long bits. The more bit you have hanging out the end of the router the more flex you will get. That will lead to skipped steps, broken bits, messed up plywood and LOTS of frustration. I speak from experience on this one 
Burr endmills are also really great for plywood with basically no tearout. They seem to be only common in Germany though… 
I’ve seen you mention those before but I have yet to try it. I need to pick up some and see how well they work. 90% of what I cut is plywood.
I had one sheet of plywood where they did not work at all, I don’t know what that was. Besides that I always run them in plywood up to 12mm because the tearout is minimal. You can just use the settings you’d use for a 2-flute. 
I definately want to learn from your experience. The shop doesn’t have endmills that can handle 20 mm plwood, could you recommend a good endmill for 20mm plywood. Also, the shop doesn’t have flattening bits. Do I need one of those?
I am mostly looking to order from amazon.
Here are the ones I use. YMMV
This has worked for me on 3/4” plywood. 1/8” with 22mm cut length
This is the bit that Ryan suggest for flattening and I have used it as well with good success. 1/2” Dovetail Bit
I finally had some time to play around with the lowrider 3, I measured the diagnoals and were within 1 mm so I did a quick test cut. Didn’t use a finishing pass and I used pretty slow values for plunge rate and speed.
Is the finishing allowance/finishing pass a percentage of the router bit? And what number of tabs is reasonble for the strut plates? 2 per hole? or 3?
Yes, usually around 10% (3-3.5mm for a 1/8" bit)
Depends a bit on the material and shape of the part/hole. For a triangle, I would suggest one on each leg.
Ok. I will try to cut the strut plates tomorrow. I have a 1/8 bit (3.175mm). I tried the makita router on 1 and on 3. What is a good rpm for a 1/8 bit? I took the numbers from the docs. Are these really low/slow?
So I was redoing the cables into the jackpot case and I accidentally cut one of the endstop wires from the motor. These are the motors I have. Can I take a wire from another motor and unplug the broken wire and plug in the new wire??
Did you cut the motor or Endstop wire? But basically you can use any wire to extend the wires again.
I cut the black wire of the endstop, I found a wago connection that might work.
Is y0 on the rail side of the lowrider 3? (I am using Jackpot)
Wagos work or those little smeltythingies. Don’t know the name. 
No, should be non-rail.
Actually, Y0 can be on either side. It just matters where the motor is plugged in on the board.
True. 
