Wondering if there’s a way to salvage my LR3 pieces and make a manual router sled, maybe just keep the z axis control for height adjustment. Like, instead of a full control board, just 1 button for up and one button for down, and judge doc by eye
Why do you want to plane it when it went though the sander? I don’t get it.
Cut your Inlays, glue them in, plane, run through sander?
This would be my thought. Lot less to sand when you cut down the inlay first.
Because The two faces aren’t parallel due to the glue up. Sanding just takes out the high spots, and it’s left with a slight twist.
Plan is to put it on the bed, with a 1/16th shim under the front corner, then surface. Thatll make the vcarve surface parallel to the gantry. Vcarve, remove waste, then I can flip and make the backside parallel to the top.
If I don’t make the top surface parallel to the gantry initially, I’ll have slight mismatches in the machined depth depending on how far off flat the board came out the glue up
You’re not planing your endgrain, right? Wear eye-protection, my friend.
Planing with the CNC. 
They call that surfacing, philipp lol
So, I’m guessing that means you don’t do an initial surfacing of your boards before doing your v-carves then?
I’ll mention this flattening is my normal workflow for end grain boards- I normally would use a router sled on my work table.
I just figured the process was to make a complete end grain boards, minus finish, then do the v-carves. So a finish flattening is the second to last step of making the initial boards.
the process I’ve seen by the ‘big’ vcarve people on YouTube always starts with a Cnc flattening to make the top surface coplanar with the spoilboard an parallel to the gantry, for accuracy.
Well, you are right.
I do, but now I have the sander.
You built your own, right? Nice work
Nah, I spent money and bought a Laguna now.
Nice!
Which one? I’ve got the 1632 open ended
Same one.
So, that leads me to a question to come full circle
After you glue up your end grain boards, assuming you used cauls to make sure it’s as flat as possible (I’m in this mess right now with this particular board because a caul slipped and I ended up twisting the board)- you scrape off the glue squeeze out and just put it through the sander?
I assume you skip sand- flipping it over to do each face one pass each, then put it though again- and you find that accurate enough?
Thanks friend!
I didn’t have the sander until now, but I would not do that with the boards. I’d scrap the glue, then surface the board on both sides. Maybe that’s too much. I should run it through the sander, then surface one side.
For the plug I just sand it, it’s flat enough then. 
(Wrote this last night, it didn’t post because my internet was off)
So, time for a break until tomorrow
800mm/min feed, 0.6mm doc, 9mm overlap, plus perimeter.
Going okay until the bit hit a hidden crack and threw 2 chunks of walnut across the room, and 1 into my chest. Hit the estop, picked up the pieces, turned off the lights, and ate some pie.
Try again tomorrow, with a different bit. I have a 1/4” upcut 2 flute I might try if I can’t find the 1/2” dovetail bit
Ok, started fresh this morning, got into the shop, opens up my drill bit drawer - I have no idea why- and sitting right smack dab in the model was my 1/2” dovetail bit I’ve been looking for for 3 days.
Spooky
Anyway- took a while to find the sweet spot, including one instance of hitting the wrong program, that resulted in a full send of the aforementioned 1/2” DVT through the side of my walnut endgrain.
interestingly, the machine don’t bog down, and the cut looked pretty good, so at least now I know I can do a 50% step over dovetail in walnut at 25mm/sec
Anyway, 90 minutes of running different variables, and I got it to where I can do a 1.5mm DOC at 30mm/sec 50% step over. Finish is flawless, no tactile ridges (although the visual ridges are there because the way the fibres smoosh) . I’m very happy with that at this point.
a better glue up system to prevent misaligned boards during production will give me better gains, so that’s where I’ll concentrate on the maple insert board after I get back from Utah.
the pvc and wedge holding system works great, the auto start and stop of both the router and DC via the IoT relay is amazing, and the EStop works too, lol
