I did it before school run
150mm left side - stopblock to X0
150mm right side stopblock to xMax
My spoil board is a little bigger as you can see
3 Likes
Thanks a lot, that helps a bunch. 
3 Likes
No problem
It is not included in the drawings because it is not a fixed point.
Your X endstop will dictate that.
1 Like
Ah, makes sense. Helps anyway. 
Hey @Tokoloshe , importing the existing drawing into Fusion 360 calibrating for size help me answer some questions. Shared details here. Hope that helps!
1 Like
Interesting. I use it on my LR2 and X is left/right arrow. I’m using keyboard control mode in cnc.js, that’s probably the difference.
1 Like
Yeah, this is purely because of the way the ESP3D software award coded to do the translation.
As far as I know, the guy writing the ESP3D software has been looped in and has actually changed it.
And @azab2c actually did an awesome workaround that lets you/me remap any of the keys we want, which is cool
2 Likes
This is a super interesting thread. Thanks for sharing.
What are you using for software to generate the gcode for router and laser? Carveco?
3 Likes
Cool. BTW I just found your thread as I contemplate converting my LR2 to a 3. Great reading
2 Likes
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Yes, correct.
I just couldn’t get a hang of Estlcam, plus I found a 3 month free trial for carveco and it’s very intuitive. So now I’m paying monthly, and all I need to do is make sure I sell 1 board a month to cover it.
And Lightburn for laser stuff. 2 week free trial, then an extra week, and a $60 one-off payment. It’s already paid for itself in how much extra personalization that you can do.
1 Like
Thanks, I appreciate that.
1 Like
So, feb 13, I got Covid. Parents in law brought it in. Been a slog
I still have a couple residual issues that I’m working through, but I’ve been using down time to get ducks in a row. Business plan, YT channel plan etc
Anyway- I’m back. Hopefully doing an LR3 project on Friday- just a few carved boxes. They seem popular.
5 Likes
Glad you are back, since your tiny bee was the last nudge I needed towards the LowRider. I made some inlays and am really happy how they turned out. They are not as tiny as your bee, but the bee isn’t an inlay. 
4 Likes
Ooooooffff
That sounds like a challenge!! I want to do a bee inlay now to prove it can be done.
I’m going back over your boom arm build. I’m thinking of doing a YouTube video on the LR3, and cutting the parts for the boom arm as the project. Although I may do a bee inlay now, instead. Or as well. Show the extremes.
5 Likes
That’s the spirit. 
Did I share all the boom arm files? I am going to check.
2 Likes
What did you use for your pivot pin, again? 1/4” rod or 1/2” conduit?
I’m debating actually just going with a single side, and not a box, and having the hose simply attached to the arm with zip ties or Velcro wraps. Would simplify both the actual arm and the mount build
1 Like
I used 8mm threaded rods and nylock nuts.
I actually made plans for a shorter, extendable arm for the table itself but haven’t gotten around cutting it.
If you just use a single side you are losing a bit of stiffness, but not too much. There is s lot of maths involved and I am not very good at it.
2 Likes
Yeah, the reason I mentioned the single piece version is that there is a boom arm a YouTube woodworker mad a year ago, and it kinda went viral in the field- pretty much every new shop tour in the space has one. It’s basic, but no one has mentioned issues. Not a new idea but he he showcased it in his opening series of videos and it took off
I do like the box though, is much more substantial plus it contains the hose. I’m not a massive fan of the ‘hose ziptied to the side’ aesthetic
And a power cord (that I still have to install) and one more empty pipe for air if I ever buy a compressor. ;D
2 Likes