Yup, should just work. If there are any issues or updates flashing it is simple.
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Could you help me on what screw sizes go to what? I want to start putting some screws in place but dont want to start putting all the screws in then find out i needed ut somewhere else. Thank you in advance
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The hardware list shown here is helpful: LowRider CNC V3 - V1 Engineering Documentation
You’ll notice that there are only a few sizes. In true “engineering wisdom” fashion, Ryan deliberately and carefully designed it so there are lots of uses of the same size. Thus, for the most part, you need a lot of one thing, instead of a few of many things.
The quantity 14 of M8 x 40mm (imperial alternate 5/16” x 1.5”) go for the roller bearings.
The quantity 100 of M5 x 30mm go for almost everything as far as fastening parts together.
Note: I had a bunch of M5 x 25mm, and no 30mm, and so I started using them, and found that for the most part I could get away with using 25mm. One place I could not get away with 25mm, was attaching the sides (XZ plates) to the beam. Also, on things that attach to the YZ plate, which mine was thicker than spec, at 3/4" instead of 1/2", I was only able to use 25mm screws by use of a Forstner bit to counter bore the areas where nuts go on the outside of the YZ plate. This was light work since MDF is so easy to cut into.
The quantity 40 of M3 x 10mm are for attaching motors to motor mounts, and slide bearings to linear rods, and a tiny few other things I cannot think of at the moment. There are 5 motors x 4 screws each, for 20 of the 40, and 4 of the slide bearings at 4 screws each, for 16 more of the 40. So those two uses alone = 36 out of 40. There are only 4 left and I cannot remember now what they are for.
The quantity 10 of M2.5 x 12mm are for mounting end stop switches to their mounts.
The quantity 24 of 3mm x 12mm “Wood/metal” (imperial alternate #4 x ½” Wood or Sheet metal screws) are for attaching linear rods to the MDF YZ plate.
The quantity *22 of M4 x 12mm+ Wood/metal (imperial alternate #8 x ½“+) are to mount things to your table, including both your Y belt tensioner bases and your Y rail mounts (assuming you are mounting all that to a wooden table, and not to metal and/or plastic like I did).
*Not included in the hardware kit.
M8, M5, and M3 are so different from each other that there should be no chance that you would get confused on which goes where.
Hope this helps!
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Awesome post, thanks for the input.
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One more tidbit on using my remixed dust shoe for 2.5" hose: whenever your LowRider 3 is fully assembled and in place, the Y rail itself encroaches the closest to the edge of the new, larger dust shoe (when the LR core is moved toward X-minimum as far as it can go), and so in order to make sure the X end-stop switch gets triggered before the dust shoe makes contact with the Y rail, I used a longer than normal M3 screw in the X end-stop screw hole in the X tensioner. Whereas a “standard” install would probably make use of M3 x 10mm in that spot, I think I used either M3 x 25mm or M3 x 30mm.
The loss of 15mm-20mm of travel in the X-min direction actually helped me, because I have some OSB wood “sides” at the edge of my table, to elevate the rails/tracks, and if it were homing all the way against a 10mm screw, at Z-min a bit could come down onto those sides. In other words, I have no need of those additional mm’s of travel, because it’s not over my spoil board — it’s over nothing I ever need to cut. As it is, at X-min (and Z-min) the bit can go down into a gap between those OSB “sides” and my MDF spoil board. For an image of my table to understand this, visit my LR2/table build thread here.
In my case, I would still use that longer screw for the X end-stop even if I were not using this 2.5" hose dust shoe remix. However, if for someone’s use, that loss of 15mm-20mm of travel is problematic, it would require revising the remix to rotate everything more toward the middle. That is doable, provided care is taken to make sure it does not create issues for access to change the bit when the bottom shoe part is removed.
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Thanks for the reminder- I saw this detail in your video where you described the new shoe and a couple other details.
Appreciate the help
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Just tried this and an m3 screw is a little loose in there. I have some m5 laying around I think.
Hmm. Are you talking about the hole in the X tensioner for the end stop hinge to hit against? M3 definitely fits right and tight for me there.
Yep-
M3x20 in the tensioner hole… little loose
Hard to show the wiggle in pictures, lol
It’s fine- I can easily find an alternative
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Why are you using that screw?
The best option if you actually need to offset that is M666, or bend the microswitch tab.
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Because I’m using the 2.5” dust collection shoe which will hit the end plate before the end stop engages properly.
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Ok, so I just burned todays ‘tinkering time’ while
Kids napped trying to flash the board and screen.
I hooked everything up as detailed in the docs, and was welcomed with a 3d printer interface, when I (erroneously) assumed that the board was already flashed and configured for CNC.
No worries- I downloaded the necessary files, and followed the instructions.
And am now faced with a worse looking version and still a hanky looking 3d print interface/
Since I’m not a coder, and I’ve essentially followed the instructions perfectly as written- I’m stumped. Anyone offer any insight into how to get this looking like a CNC interface?
Fwiw- I hooked up one stepper to the driver, and I can move it in both directions when using the movement tab.
After downloading the files and Re flashing- board first, with exp1 and 2 disconnected, then the TFT, I get this
Using the TFT files here
You bought it from me and it wasn’t flashed?
Feel free to change it, all the files are available. In our download. Info on the SKR page.
What exactly are you looking for. We use the interface as is, any 3D printer specific stuff just ignore. It is far above my coding abilities to try and edit out buttons and try to keep a relatively current build. On that note I highly suggest you do not even use the touch interface. The Marlin side is far more stable and I only switch to run terminal commands if I don’t have my laptop with me.
Yes- bought it last week, arrived Monday, working on it today- and this is the first splash screen out of the box
I was hoping for a CNC interface without the clutter of the 3d print commands- I mean, most of the pages and real estate is do so with fans, bed temp and extruder functions.
I was under the impression that the firmware builds had removed the extraneous 3d printer clutter and it was a cleaner interface.
If people just use the screen to jog to position or home, cool, but I didn’t expect to be seeing extruder and bed temps plastered all over the front screen from the outset, with no way to easily change it.
That is ready to run. It should have shown up in Marlin mode though.
No, there is even a note on one of the release pages you showed above that says, back to stock.
That is just it, it is far above my abilities at this time to even maintain it. Two guys have done it now but It took so much work it broke every update and I had zero clue how to fix it. Like I said, I don’t use that side and not it in the instructions Marlin mode is what you should be using so why spend time on the non stable side?
Most people just use the screen to start some gcode.
That interface is still in there. it was never the home page. That has not changed.
ok, thanks
Understood- i just assumed ‘stock’ for a CNC controller wouldnt have tabs for Extruder or Bed temp controls on the first page.
With regards to just using the screen to run gcode, how do you set home and utilise the functions of the endstops, something that is detailed heavily in the LR3 build?
Yep- found that interface. two menus deep in the movements tab. i assumed it would be front and center in a CNC interface
Thanks Ryan. I don’t want to seem upset or dismissive of everyone’s efforts- it’s just my expectations were different and it wasn’t clear in any of the docs that the touch interface was ‘unstable, or that my menus would be cluttered with 3d print tabs.