SW VA V5 with a DragonBurner, DragonCutter and Filament sensors on the toolhead

Just starting up a new thread to cover the full build of the machine. This may take a little time as We leave on vacation to Mexico for a few days next week.

The Plan:

Build a V5. I will be using blind joints at the connections as I have a really good way to square the ends up (see my other build thread). I will probably add the panels at a later date when I get off my ass and finish my LR3.

The impetus of this build is because I built a TradRack MMU unit and needed a few extra things on my toolhead. According to @Jonathjon’s excellent write up and my reading about MMU’s the software to use is Happy Hare and all the stuff I read says it works best with filament sensors above and below the extruder. Filament cutter at the toolhead also makes life much easier.

As I have no way to retrofit filament cutters to the H2V2 Revo on my V4 I started looking at alternative toolheads. See my Odd Idea thread. First option was Stealthburner and the latest is the DragonBurner. Dragon burner is more flexible, lighter and has better cooling than the stealthburner.

Mounting it to the machine opened up a couple other interesting ideas concerning where the belts are run (front or back). I have all the core parts to mount the DragonBurner setup in both configurations. I want to run tests on both setups to see what the difference in nozzle distance from the bearing centerline makes.

More parts coming tomorrow!

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I cant wait to see a V5 printing with a Dragonburner toolhead! This will most likely get me off my butt and swapping my V4 over to V5 lol. Its been a GREAT printer, but the V5 is just so much faster and better in a lot of ways. I am glad you are building a new one instead of just swapping though. Then you can see the difference first hand. And when you get ready to switch your V4 over to V5 you’ll be able to do anything you wish you had done differently the first time LOL

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Discovered that my Mill Vise is only 3 inches and the pieces of aluminum I got are 4 inches. So I played with the mill as I have not used it in a VERY long time with some ACM scraps I had on hand.

They came out nicely but are only 3mm. I can use it but then it just wont have that polished look to it. Looking at new vises now. I wish there was a way to put new jaws in that extend the height and holding capacity… I am sure they are around but would need to be made. Think a 3d print will hold up?

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Check out my other build thread…

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Have not actually tried cutting yet but it is pretty solid in there. Nice thing is that if I run into them they are plastic!

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Well,

After some starts and stops I have the mill running. My plastic jaws have worked like a charm. Only issue I have is that I have had a steep learning curve on the aluminum milling. Unlike the routers, I have a top speed of 2500 rpm on the spindle.

Settled on 500mm per minute and .1mm DOC with spiral lead ins. Leaving .2mm in roughing and a full depth finishing pass. Triangle holding tabs limited to 3 on a part and moved to flat spots.

Cleanup is relatively easy as I have a vertical metal bandsaw and a 2x72 belt grinder to do it with.

I discovered a few things. I have a mister setup and coolant for it. The issue I am having is the coolant makes the chips clump up and it damages the finish. Just using air to cool and evacuate chips now.

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